Member postings for fizzy

does anyone have a full copy of the up to date blue book that they could email me please ??

dont be tempted to heat it - i tried this and it was a complete disaster!!

should be fine in my experience but depends massively on the quality of material. The crap they sell at b&q is made from melted down fridges and just cracks - their copper is even worse!

theres a company in america who sell them...i will repost when the name comes to me!!

Ive got the steel on order - 5" OD x 22" long, with certs, the designs are almost complete and ive got a copy of the blue book. Im trying to make it for under 200 squids!! Im going to do a build update if anyone is interested. Ive done all the calculations and it should steam just fine. I would be interested to know what the smallest dia tubes have worked for you - these are 13" long. My calculations make certain assumptions so ive got a little room for manouver on tube size - more and min dia is what i want. Coming out at 7/16 od but would like to know if yours are smaller. If youve got first hand experience of something like this then I would welcome input, I dont mean to offend anyone but if your going to tell me how it cant be done without having the data to back it up then......(im fedup with hearing people tell me what wont work without them having any proof to back their statement up).

on my ml7 it is a 8mm spanner size bolt on the cog

Theres always someone who will tell you horror stories about using brass on copper, but for the amount of usage the typical 3 1/2 boiler gets it wont make a jot. If your using it for stay or boss remember it expands like billyo when heated and always ends up oversize! Bronze is better, but megger expensive!

hi...20g is 0.9mm, thats the same as the stuff in b&q (wall thickness) its critical limit is about 600 psi so in theory its strong enough, but i would go thicker if i could - bottom line is it will easily pass for your requirements

Contact Joe at Macc Models, he will sell you everything by the half inch if needed.

ok..simple displacement lubricators will work away from the valve chest at any level but if you move them too far away they dont get hot enough and dont work, mine didnt ! I tend to make realy big ones and make the steam inlet adjustable. remember to fit a drain cock to the bottom of it.

hi, where in the blue book does it outlaw T section crown stays...?? I certainly used them last year on a new boiler, and they are on most of the drawing sets I own?

tyhanks guys, i spent many years as a coded welder so i apreciate the legislation...just need to find someone in the northwest who wants to help - amounts to about 5 minutes welding if that!!

is it worth soft soldering them after expanding them to ensure a good seal - comsol etc?

pumped lubricators (ratchet type) can be mounted anywhere

Hello

I will soon need my 5" boiler welding by someone with the right papers (if you have them you wont need me to tell you what they are). Im more than willing to pay for your services, and can travell however far it takes. Any offering to help??

Thanks - can you please elaborate on this, it is not something I have heard of?

I am building a steel boiler in 5" which will need copper tubes expanding into it - fine at smokebox end but how do i do it from inside the firebox?

I just did mine..this way is very easy: I marked the exact route the drill needed to take on the outside of the casting. Put a 2mm dia lengtht of bar in the 2mm collet and lined the line on the casting up with the edge of the vertical bar, as in previous post. Swap bar for cutter and slightly relieve are where holes are to go - so the drill will now be cutting perpendicular to the face (square in other words, this way the drill goes in straight and true and comes out exactly where you expect it to!). Remark and pop the hole centres and drill away - near perfect results! I dont wurry about the holes being at slightly different heights in the ports (a result of the holes being druilled in parallel to the bore), never been a problem.

I just did mine..this way is very easy: I marked the exact route the drill needed to take on the outside of the casting. Put a 2mm dia lengtht of bar in the 2mm collet and lined the line on the casting up with the edge of the vertical bar, as in previous post. Swap bar for cutter and slightly relieve are where holes are to go - so the drill will now be cutting perpendicular to the face (square in other words, this way the drill goes in straight and true and comes out exactly where you expect it to!). Remark and pop the hole centres and drill away - near perfect results! I dont wurry about the holes being at slightly different heights in the ports (a result of the holes being druilled in parallel to the bore), never been a problem.