Member postings for Paul Lousick

Hi Dennis,

How do you add the **LINK** to another post ?

Paul.

Hi Dave,

I have a 100mm vice on my X3 mill, so maybe a 75mmor 80mm for your X2. The vice did come with a swivel base but I seldom use it. 99% of my work is aligned with the X or Y axis..

I have added keys to the bottom of the vice for quick alignment, which is all that is required for most of my work. Saves heaps of time setting up. For precision work I remove the keys and accurately align the vice or use a screwless type of vice.

Refer to link for key modification. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ISj3Ad4vBU

Paul.

Hi Gary,

Perhaps your setup of clamping workpiece to angle plate and then to the slide is flexing under load ? Can you post a photo so we can better understand your set-up ?

Paul.

Thanks John, I knew that bronze was preferable to brass but did not know the technical reason. (never too old to learn something).

Regards, Paul.

"Should not be a problem using it in contact with steam, its the hot water you don't want it to come into contact with so don't use on the boiler or fittings below water level".

Can someone please explain the problem with using brass fittings ? Many model suppliers for boiler fittings are selling brass whistles, water gauges, etc. Are these OK ?

Paul.

Lots of info on the net. Do a search for Limits and Fits.

Paul.

Hi Jason,

The Aussie code only specifies the minimum requirements for an amateur engineer to build a safe boiler. Material sizes for the boiler are actually larger than what would be required for a commercial, professionally built boiler to compensate for the lack of skills of some model engineers.

It does not discriminate between operating a boiler to "a man in a shed or only for running in public". No one would know of what you did in the privacy of your own shed unless something went wrong. But would you risk the chance of a boiler exploding and scalding you with boiling water and steam, possibly causing permanent injury to your face and eyes ?

Paul.

Building and operating a safe boiler is of the utmost importance, both to yourself and to spectators. A boiler is potentially a bomb, waiting to explode. Steam at boiling point is 100 degrees C, at 180 psi it is approx 180 deg.

Boilers in Australia must be built to a code and inspected by a certified inspector.  The code for boilers with a design pressure of more than 250 kpa, barrel diameter of more than 100mm & water capacity of more than 1 litre.

AMBSC Boiler Code – Part 1 – Copper Boilers

AMBSC Boiler Code – Part 2 – Steel Boilers

Working Pressure:  250-700 kPa (36-101 psi)

Boiler diameter:  4” – 14” Dia

Water Capacity:  Fire tube – 50 litres max

Water Capacity:  Water tube – 25 litres max

(There is also a code for Sub-Miniature boilers but I have not read it)

Documents available from:

Boiler codes developed and published by the Australian Miniature Boiler Safety Committee (AMBSC)

http://www.smex.net.au/Store/Store_AALS-Codes.php

These books specify the type and size of materials required to build a boiler, construction technique, safety equipment and testing requirements. Everything that you need to safely build a boiler.

Paul.

Edited By Paul Lousick on 02/08/2015 01:54:01

Edited By Paul Lousick on 02/08/2015 01:55:15

My interpretation of Harold's instructions is to rough out the slot with a straight cutter then cut half of the dovetail, leaving 0.5mm of the finished width. Then lower the dovetail cutter to the full depth to machine the bottom half of the dovetail. Finishing with light cuts to finish the complete dovetail (removing the 0.5mm at the top). This reduces the load on the cutter. The tips of the dovetail cutters are small and could easily break.

Paul.

Hi Peter,

Sounds like you only need a small boiler at very low pressure if it will run from an old kettle. Making a boiler as you have described could generate far more pressure (depends how much you heat it) and could be dangerous. I would not recommend building one unless it is from a certified drawing and made to a design standard.

A friend of mine runs small engines from a steam cleaner. Available for less than $30 on flee-bay or hardware stores. (This was shown in an earlier post about using compressed air to run steam engines). Use a plastic hose that is pushed over the end of the steam outlet. Not clamped so it will blow off if there is too much pressure.

Paul.

(PS how do I show a link to a previous post in MEW)

It should not matter where you attach the dti to the mill spindle. As long as it is secure. (also worth checking if there is any play in your mill spindle which could give a false reading).

The twin DTI setup is similar to a single. Remove one indicator and it is used the same as a single. Just makes tramming of the head a little easier because you can see both indicators at the same time. As long as they both have been set at the same height.

Personally, I prefer to use a single indicator because it does not rely on setting the height of the DTI's to each other. The arm on the mount for my DTI is 300mm long, which checks the height difference of the table at 600mm centres. More accurate than the 150mm centres on some of the twin setups.

Paul.

Hi pgk, Have both indicators been set at the same height?

I do not have a twin DTI holder or a surface plate for tramming my mill but the setup is the same for a single dial indicator (someone correct me if I am wrong). Firstly I zero the indicator on one side of the mill table then swing the indicator thru 180 degrees to the other side. The disadvantage with a single indicator is that I have to view it from the rear of the mill.

If you have 2 indicators they both have to be zeroed from the same reference point. (ie zero the first indicator then rotate the support by 180 degrees and then zero the second indicator. Both are now set at the same height). Now the indicators can me rotated 180 degrees so both can be viewed from the front to adjust the angle of the milling head. After it is set square to the table, the dial indicators should be rotated thru 180 degrees again to confirm that your setup is correct. Both indicators should have the same reading.

Paul.

Hi Roger,

It is possible to make the 4 spacers from a piece of steel only 40mm thick but would need a special tool to cut the 2.5mm groove. A hole saw as suggested, could be used (if you have one for this diameter) but would leave a rough surface which would have to be cleaned up.
It would be much easier to buy some more steel. Possibly hollow bar for the large spacer. Or have it profile cut from plate and machine to finished size. Should not be too expensive and much easier to make the spacers.

Paul.

Hi Chris,

Not exactly sure of what you have but similar to the inserts which I use on my milling cutters. Lots of tools available that use these inserts at a reasonable price. (Take them with you to a local machinery tool store and confirm if they fit their cutters. Easier than making a special holder). Paul.

ISO TPMN 160308, Grade PR1255

t =3.18mm, I =16.5mm, d =9.925mm, R =0.8mm

Hi Mike, welcome to model engineering.

I come from a similar background to yourself as an engineer.draftsman and spent most of my working life telling the machinist what to do. I would suggest that you only purchase the basic kit of tools to start with and buy others as you need them. Tooling can cost as much as the cost of the mill or lathe. I model everything that I plan to machine in 3D CAD before I attempt to machine it. Much easier and cheaper to fix it in the computer. Lots of help and advise on this forum and on the internet.

Paul.

Works OK with Firefox.

Paul

Although the video was a little long, I did learn something about boring bars. And the use of lead or solder to stop vibration. Never too old to learn something.

Paul.

A great video explaining techniques for line boring, making a boring bar and holding the work by a professional machinist. BUT, like many amateur videos, way too long. The 3 part video could have been condensed to 1. (sorry for being so critical)

Instead of modifying your calipers, attach a narrow blade which could be removed later. Clamp or glue the blade to the calipers. (superglue can be dissolved with acetone)

No problem Michael,

The post started a lot of good discussion. All ideas, whether good or bad are part of our learning experience.

Regards, Paul.