Member postings for Paul Lousick

This is a link for Record planes that was recently posted on MEW.

**LINK**

The bolt that holds the front knob is 7/32"- 20Tpi Whitworth

(beat me to it ! But i doubt that you will find a metric screw that fits. 7/32" = 5.56mm)

Edited By Paul Lousick on 15/10/2022 11:10:39

In 40 years of working in a mechanical design, I have never heard of the term Bare and Full.

The only reference I found was a post in ME in 2016 which said :"the terms "Bare" and "Full' are used meaning minus a bit and plus a bit, leaving the fit to the builder.". A very poor way of specifying a dimension on a drawing. A much better way is to specify the allowable tolerance from the required size.

Edited By Paul Lousick on 14/10/2022 12:03:44

Absolute bargain ! It would cost £50 ($95) here in Australia

You are correct Michael, I was not thinking of a logic inverter.

I am also assuming (should never do that), that the LED is also turned on when the media player is working. If a logic inverter was used, the LED would be off. Therefore why not just dis-connect it ? (or cover it as suggested). If required to show when the player is working only in the on position, it just needs to be connected to the working power supply in the unit. (If you follow my logic)

Edited By Paul Lousick on 11/10/2022 10:13:03

Many appliances that are controlled remotely have a LED that remains on. It would not have "an inverter" to operate it but is directly connected to the control board. Only option is to turn off the unit completely at the mains switch.

Or put a sticker over the LED so it can't be seen.

A camping power pack although a cheaper option will not cut-in automatically when the power goes down. Uninteruptable Power Supplies (UPS) have electronics that will.

See computer supply accessories. Also lots available on ebay, etc.

I missed the point that it was her house while she was visiting elsewhere that had the problem. Therefore best option is a UPS as used for computers, etc that will kick in when the power goes down. Just need a system with enough capacity for the duration of the blackout. It will automatically re charge the battery when the power is restored.

My 2010 version of MS Word can save a document in pdf format which I convert to jpg in Photoshop (or similar). Photoshop can set the resolution of the jpg image when it is imported and converted.

I do a similar process when saving a Solidworks drawing that is uploaded here on MEW. Files can be saved in a lot of formats, including jpg but I have found that a higher resolution image is produced if I first export it as a pdf and then converted to jpg.

A screen captured image will only save it at the resolution of the computer display.

A battery backup system is an expensive option to run all of the electrical appliances for an emergency situation that may or may not happen. And for how long will the power be out.

A much cheaper option is to get a petrol powered generator.

The CCT, router, hearer control, etc would have to be dis-connected from the house power and connected to the generator which may need to be modified by an electrician. If a big enough generator is installed, you could run the house lights, refrigerator, etc. (Note: must be run outside of the house, carbon monoxide)

Edited By Paul Lousick on 07/10/2022 22:47:25

I like the comment "the patternmakers was on strike M'Lord." but I like the feature and will make the part in 2 pieces. I also have to join the flat member between the 2 column ends and will make a jig to hold them while silver soldering.

There are lots of Muncaster model engine drawings for downloading, but I wonder how many have actually been made by the author ? Details are crowded onto the drawing sheets, some of which are not presented in an orderly way.

Dimensions are chain linked and not referenced to a common datum which can result in an accumulation of tolerance errors. (Mating parts may not line up exactly). If I were to present drawings like this to our machine shop they would be rejected and I would be looking for a new job. (should'nt colmplain though, they are free)

I plan to build a 2 cylinder Antablature Steam Engine by Muncaster and like most projects, model it in CAD first to identify any design problems in the drawings.

Modelling the special feature at the top of the support columns is not a problem in CAD as shown, but how would you machine the circular cut-outs that have a square corner at each end ? Even casting would have a problem withdrawing the pattern from a mold (unless lost wax).

An option is to make it in 2 pieces and plunge cut the grooves from the end and then join the top to the bottom.

Any other ideas ?

We don't have LIDL in Australia but have ALDI which are both German based companies (not related) and sell some similar items. I use their digital calipers for everyday use. Not as good as my Mitutoyo but great for the price and have done so for many years.

Most of their tools are of reasonable quality AND if there is a problem come with a 60 day refund or replacement warranty and a 1 or 2 year manufacturers warranty.

Anthony,

One of my previous hobbies was electronics and used to buy Electronics Today International (Australia) and I also got rid of my collection of magazines. It's going to take a while to read thru the 100+ ETI magazines, Then there are ALL those others from other countries

Paul.

The universal Deckel milling machine in one of Stefan's videos is a remarkable piece of equipment.

There are thousands of Youtube videos on this site and it would be difficult to find this one when doing a search. I would suggest that a more descriptive title be given the post. eg, Deckel FP! milling machine, etc. and a link to the post **LINK**

Paul

I'm not an expert on power supplies but if it is a 12v DC motor why not connect it to a 12v battery to check if it runs with full speed and torque. If OK, then the problem is with the controller or power supply.

Paul.

This web site is not a reference book as such but contains copies of hundreds of electronic magazine articles and projects. **LINK**

Cannot help with mounting scales on a Myford but 5um scales should be OK for your milling machine. 5um = 0.0002" !um scales are more suited to a surface grinder.

Until you build a boiler, use an electric steam cleaner as shown in the post for my little marine engine. **LINK**

I just saw this post on Youtube, using hand sanitizer to remove epoxy. Have not tried it yet.

**LINK**

An option is to use a tap to make the threaded hole and if the studding is a loose fit make another using a split type die that you can adjust for diameter. Easier than trying to bore/turn an undersize hole.

A tap can also be used as a boring bar/cutter to make a larger diameter hole than the tap size . (Use an M8x1 tap or grind off the opposite side of the tap to bore a slightly smaller internal threaded hole)

https://youtu.be/f-YWsgAHR6A  (video starts at 6:22)

Edited By Paul Lousick on 25/09/2022 13:09:21