Member postings for Brian O'Connor

Hi John,

The problem with mounting the Z axis scale on the VMC is that the pillar slopes in towards the top. I got over this by simply drilling and tapping into the pillar and using a screw as a standoff. I can't remember what I did at the bottom, probably a short sloping spacer. I've just taken this photo of it.

As for the Y axis, I did consider the loss of travel when mounting it behind the table, but after nine years there have only been a few occasions where I could have done with some extra room but have always managed to find a way round the problem.

Edited By Brian O'Connor on 02/10/2022 18:16:08

John D,

Only just seen this post. There are photos of a Machine-DRO installation on my Warco VMC in one of my albums.

B

Amazing where a question on cutting tool geometry can lead!

Martin. Thanks for your suggestion. I have tried running it without the governor connected but it raced away and, because it was mounted on a rather wobbly garden table began to shake violently, so I had to give up on that idea. In the past I have run in model steam engines by connecting them to the lathe, but this engine is too large for that. I shall have to think of a way of applying a constant load other than me standing with something pressed on a flywheel. My local steam rally is in Prestwood in Bucks and all being well, I hope to run the engine there next year.

Thank you gentlemen for your kind comments.

Dominic. I only made a short video on my phone to show the eneven running to a friend. As soon as it is running well I will make a proper video of it and show it here.

Roger. Thank you for your suggestions, I will give them a try.

B

The 'Star' hit & miss engine is nearing completion, all that's left to do is to make the correct flywheel keys and a wooden base. I have run the engine and although it does run, it doesn't do so to my satisfation. The main problem is that the number of miss cycles is inconsistent, and while I have witnessed this with full size hit & miss engines at steam rallies, it is disappointing that it occurs on a new build. The other problem is that the number of miss cycles is is lower than expected, although this may improve with time as it beds in. If any of the other builders of these engines could offer me any advice on how the running may be improved I would be most grateful. Oh, and before anyone points out that flywheel rims should be painted and not polished, I know, I KNOW! It's just that I like a bit of bling as much as the next man.

Today's APOD picture:

https://apod.nasa.gov/apod/astropix.html

B

Thank you, gentlemen, for all your replies. I am now well set up for tackling the first two items on my list, but still have to find advice on how to clean oil-based paint from an airbrush. All the advice I can find on the web is for removing acrylic paint, so not much use. I shall just have to experiment by painting a bit of scrap metal and starting off with household detergent.

B

I have recently bought an ultrasonic cleaner to accomplish the following tasks:

Clean loco components such as injectors and clacks

Remove slight surface rust from small nuts and bolts

Clean airbrush after using oil-based enamel

Can someone please suggest what I should add to the water, and how much, to achieve each of the above. Thanks.

B

I made the Hemingway centring microscope which I highly recommend and wouldn't be without. The prism is glued in place and the graticule centred using four screws.

Get yourself an internet radio or listen on your computer or phone. There are several US stations that are funded by public subscription so almost continuous music and no adverts.

B

This one had obviously had a good feed of my dog's blood, they are tiny when empty. You have to be very careful how you remove a tick because you can leave the mouth parts behind, which can fester and make the dog very ill. I used a special tool you can buy which was probably responsible for some of the legs being pruned.

Picked this little chap off my dog

Gary,

Be aware that Reilang oilers come with one or two pumps and with aluminium or plastic bodies. On the double pump version the second pump comes into play wnen the oiler is held upside down.

Brian

Well it won't be the only component of this engine that has been 'interesting' to make!

From what I've read I understand that hit & miss engines can be quite tricky to get to run reliably, or at least to miss reliably, so I might come knocking on your door for some advice when the time comes.

B

Not as much as I am! But, don't hold your breath, I'm a slow worker.

B

Just finished making the carburettor for my Star Hit & Miss engine, a tricky little jobby. Remaining tasks are the ball governor, igniter, a few bits and pieces then stripdown and painting.

B

To slightly misquote H L Mencken, "There is always an easy solution to every human problem - neat, plausible and wrong".

B

Hello Robert,

If you would like to run your loco somewhere nearer to you than Bracknell, the High Wycombe club would make you very welcome. We have a three-gauge raised track at Holmer Green and a very friendly bunch of guys.

Brian

Thank you all for your kind comments. I think that this was the most stressful bit of machining that I have ever done. I didn't have an image of the finished piece, only (American) drawings so I spent a lot of time thinking about what it would look like and how I was going to tackle making it. I was terrified of screwing up at every stage, it's so easy to turn the wrong wheel ot turn it the wrong way. I do have DROs on mill and lathe and don't know how I would have managed without them. I also made extensive use of my centring microscope (Hemingway kit - well worth making).

Murray.

For the top feature (the support for the governor) I turned the top bit on the lathe with it held in the 4-jaw but had to file the lower part.