Member postings for lfoggy

I use the same quickchange toolpost as the seven series lathes on mine. Usually mounted on a custom made toolpost as below. The original topslide is reserved for taper turning only. Makes for a very rigid setup...

My advice about the quickchange toolpost is that there are wide variations in quality out there if buying one new. Would recommend the Bison brand.

I've received no notification about issue #39 and there seems to be no reference to it on the website either. As a paid-up subscriber how do I get access to it? I purchased the Hoglet plans and I took out my subscription for the magazine in 2018. I did get the Hoglet plans but nil else since then.

Well, I paid for a subscription and don't take kindly to a business taking my money and not delivering anything in return.....

Edited By lfoggy on 25/02/2021 19:52:52

Hi,

Is Model Engine Builder still operational? The last issue is #38 which is from several years ago...

If you have any trouble getting the plans let me know as I built a Hoglet a while back.

Helpful contribution, thanks. Make sure you point out any spelling and grammar errors as well.....

Edited By lfoggy on 06/01/2021 20:57:52

Looks a bit like my son's cycling aero 'time trial' helmet.

Hi,

I think that should be possible if you use a counterbore with a pilot. Like these..

Will generate a nice flat bottomed counterbore. You are limited to available sizes unless you can grind one up yourself (which is entirely doable as well).

Loosely based on something I saw on YouTube. Its just a block of cast iron machined to fit the cross slide, nothing special. Has really improved the rigidity of the toolpost though. Because of its size the whole cross slide is stiffened as well.

Yes, that was 'plan B' and would have worked fine as well.

A few days ago I posted a question about how to cut the face groove on this part of the Quorn Mk3 I'm building

There were plenty of suggestions including making a trepanning tool, purchasing a face grooving tool or making a multi-tooth cutter like a hole cutter.

I tried making a trepanning tool but by the time I had ground the necessary relief on the 1.6mm wide, 4.9mm deep tool, there was almost nothing left and it snapped immediately. I do not have the necessary grinder to make a curved trepanning tool. Commercial tools are available but £100 to cut a few grooves was not justifiable. I also did not have a piece of silver steel of the right size to hand to make the 'hole saw' type tool. I therefore arrived at another solution.

I've got a 'Quick Step' toolpost mounted milling attachemnt and set this up in the lathe as so..

The chuck was set rotating at 20rpm and the 1.6mm slot drill was running at 4000rpm. The carriage feed was set to 0.04mm/lathe revolution.

Worked rather well. The 4.9mm depth was reached without misshap on both parts.

Resulting slot was almost exactly to the specified 20.6mm i.d.

This is the first tme I have used the Quick Step in this way with the workpiece rotating but seemed to work. Result !

Now all you need is a 7mm x 1.1mm die and your could incorporate 'Lionheart' threads into future projects.

Thank you everyone that is very helpful.

I already have a Deckel SO clone grinder which is quite versatile so I am going to try and grind a suitable curved single-point face grooving tool and see how I get on with that. If that doesn't work I will make a cutter like ega's pictures.

You may well ask why I am building a Quorn if I already have a decent tool and cutter grinder. I don't really have an answer to that....

I don't have the book, just the drawings!

Yes, pics of your cutters would be great.

I like that idea.

The groove is 1.65mm wide and 4.9mm deep. Is a face trepanning tool really going to work do you think? The tool would be very fragile.

I don't follow you there Martin. The groove is on the face of the part, not in the bore. There are some grooves in the bore as well which are easy....

I've never seen or heard of any torque settings for small BA fasteners and I've never come across a torque wrench that has a suitable low range either. I'm sure these things exist but probably not really necessary. A firm 'finger tight' with a BA spanner should be OK. The threads are stronger than you think....

I'm currently building the Quorn Mk3 and am working on the spindle assembly. The threaded end caps to the spindle assembly incorporate an annular groove as part of the labyrinth seals, machined into the face of the caps, that is 1.6mm wide, 4.9mm deep. I've never machined anything quite like this before. What's the best way to achieve this ? To machine it on the lathe would require a special cutter with considerable clearance which I think would be quite fragile.I am thinking of maybe milling it with a slot mill on the rotary table....

I would not recommend it as a first clock to be honest. The first clock I built some 25 years ago was a Wilding eight-day wall clock. I remember finding this a challenge and I made many mistakes generating a lot of scrap metal in the process. The advantage of a medium sized clock like this is that the materials are not too expensive if you need couple of goes to get things right. Its also not so small as to be fiddly. The turret clock is not that much more complicated but so much larger. The main wheel for example requires a five inch diameter and 3/8 thick brass blank. I would want a bit of practice and confidence under my belt before starting to cut metal !

How about the eight-day long case clock by Alan Timmins ? Good design and a well written and a clear book to go with it.

Some great suggestions, thanks.

As it happens I already have all the metric collects in 1mm increments so another reason to go with the 5C.

I will order the 5C chuck with the direct mount D1-3. Brilliant suggestion from Clive that if it turns out unsatisfactory I could just convert to backplate mount. Hadn't thought if that.