Member postings for julian atkins

Hi Stew,

The only time Don Young described with drawings the sight glasses for his hydrostatic displacement lubricators was in his series on 'George', his version in 3.5"g of the original Ffestiniog locos. It is a twin glass design, as you require.

If you PM me with your details I can email you the drawings and construction notes, plus a few hints and tips.

Cheers,

Julian

Edited By julian atkins on 06/11/2016 20:45:30

Hi Lynne,

If you want a pukka traditional job the frame posts are secured with tapered pins, not threaded and with nuts added.

Cheers,

Julian

Not sure I have understood this!

A generic locomotive driver knows the sectional appendix inside out and all the weekly updates. He signs for both. He studies the 'board' for local notices and emergency notices. He is passed to drive certain classes on lines he has been passed for and learnt the road. He has an intimate knowledge of the timetable. He has the correct kit and doesnt sign on unfit due to drink or drugs. He has passed his medical.

Cheers,

Julian

Hi John,

You are not the only one to find that some commercial check valves sold by the trade are poorly made - see Ron Hancock's posts re his Black 5.

Cheers,

Julian

My complete 'King Dick' socket and spanner set includes 14mm and all metric sizes and imperial. I have 2 other sets that include 14mm and the above.

I really dont know what the fuss is about.

Some of you really ought to get a life.

Cheers,

Julian

Edited By julian atkins on 29/10/2016 23:16:58

I suggest something else is amiss. None of my locos have shown the slightest wear in the drain cock linkeage over in some cases 20 -30 years.

Cheers,

Julian

Hi John,

I am not aware of any glaring errors with Martin Evans' Dart design apart from the valve gear, but as with all Martin Evans designs there will be lots of errors.

Guard Irons are easy to rectify and sort out when the loco is on it's springs and the boiler fitted and much else besides.

Cheers,

Julian

I went to the new Royal Mint 'experience' and exhibition at Llantrisant today.

I am not a coin collector but thought it quite an excellent new attraction in South Wales, and well worth a visit.

Cheers,

Julian

Commander W T Barker described in ME 1953 his 'Aids to Accuracy in Marking Out. With Special Reference to Problems Encountered in Small Work'. For those not familiar with Commander Barker, he built some of the most intricate small scale working and beautifully detailed marine engines ever made. They are all museum pieces and highly prized. He had only very basic tooling and machines.

I would recommend these articles to Dianne if she has access to ME in 1953. If not, I can email the articles to her.

Cheers,

Julian

I need a press for pressing off the axles from loco wheels. I have 3 jobs that need such a press. A slotted bed is required.

And of course a much better all singing and dancing bigger lathe!

Cheers,

Julian

Hi John,

The axle pump should have a ball seating above and below the ram. In effect they are 2 check valves as part of the pump body.

I always test check valves quite rigorously.

As John Baguley suggests, yours may not be seating properly. It is also possible the boiler check valve is not seating properly (the water in the side tanks will heat up quite a lot if this happens).

It would not take much for the valves not to seat on a new loco - a bit of swarf or muck.

Another possibility (which is quite common) is for the bottom axlepump check valve to 'stick' especially if no 'U' bend incorporated. This isnt the case in your's as you have observed the bypass flow.

There may also be some restriction somewhere? Perhaps a pipe bent and kinked, or a nipple onto a pipe on the delivery side partly blocked with silver solder? Or perhaps there is a restiction in the water supply to the axlepump somewhere.

The Tich axlepump, if made to the drawings has not been commented upon, to the best of my knowledge, as being other than very effective.

I would disconnect the boiler feed pipe from the boiler check valve, and run the chassis on air with the bypass closed and trying to stop the flow from the pipe. The water should squirt a considerable distance.

Cheers,

Julian

I use the insides of cardboard cereal packets and a pencil. Except for boilers which get drawn out properly on A2 or A3 paper.

My next loco might get drawn out properly, but on paper, if this is still acceptable for ME. It is rather an interesting loco, and might be of interest to ME readers.

Cheers,

Julian

Hi Peter,

You dont really need pin drills these days if you have a vertical mill and a goodly supply of decent slot end mills. I havent seen pin drills advertised for quite a few years. They are very useful on non ferrous stuff in making boiler fittings though.

For the expansion link slots I have always chain drilled them then filled the slots in gauge plate. I can usually do a pair in one evening. I have never milled them, though I have the capacity to do this.

Cheers,

Julian

The only ones I recommend are those supplied by Paviersteam and made by Len Steel to the Gordon Chiverton designs. Order well advance as there is quite a long waiting list. Usual disclaimer.

Cheers,

Julian

Hi Peter,

'Pin Drills' are indeed like counterbores but usually with 4 teeth/cutting edges, and made out of silver steel with a pegged insert for the hole. In years gone by all the ME suppliers sold them, especially Kennions. I have quite a few that I use very regularly on certain jobs.

They have the advantage for those without a mill that they can be used in the pillar drill once the appropriatte hole has been drilled.

They can also be used in a handrill.

What bit of Tich do you need to cut slots? Apart from the ports on the top of the cylinders I cant think of much else on Tich that requires slots involving the problems you describe.

Cheers,

Julian

Hi David,

Assuming no further problems with your cylinder block etc,

Setting of valve gear ought to be approached methodically and carefully.

It must not be rushed, and may take quite a long time to get 'right'.

There is obviously something still seriously wrong. Exactly what, is impossible to predict or advise upon from the available information.

Suggest for a start you accurately establish the front dead centre (FDC) and back dead centre positions (BDC) and establish at what point the valve opens for each in fullgear.

Cheers,

Julian

Hi Nick,

82 thou in total ie 41 thou either side is quite OK for a Sweet Pea, and unless you have split axleboxes there isnt much you can do about it now anyway.

On some designs clearance between the front crank pin and crosshead can be tight, but from what I remember of Sweet Pea this isnt a problem.

Cheers,

Julian

Try some Bakers Fluid flux? Brush it on. Perhaps fit the mesh onto a sleeve of rusty steel rod, and heat via the rod. (If you want a rusty steel rod dip it in Bakers Fluid then revisit a few days later!)

As on 'off the wall' suggestion try threading the mesh together with brass wire. I have use fine stainless silk screen mesh for injector filters for many years making 'finger' type filters with this method.

Cheers,

Julian

Edited By julian atkins on 13/10/2016 23:24:12

I dont know anyone who makes lots of silver soldered copper boilers who wears gloves, and I've been at this lark of making boilers for my own locos for quite a few years plus known the likes of the late Reg Chambers and the late Alec Farmer, and John Ellis, all professional boiler makers.

Cheers,

Julian

I agree with KWIL; when for boiler making the silver solder rod gets to less than 6" it gets thrown aside and replaced with another. The 6" throw aways are of course carefully picked up off the burns in the workshop carpet and used for other less intensive jobs.

I never use gloves, and also do all my silver soldering indoors, with the doors open. A curtain can be drawn across my workshop patio type doors to shield from the sunlight so can silver solder big stuff in all conditions.

Cheers,

Julian