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Member postings for Tomfilery

Here is a list of all the postings Tomfilery has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Annoying Adverts
18/07/2012 09:00:10

David (Clark),

In the main, I don't experience the problem with posts running under adverts and have seen over the past year, or so, the efforts you put into correcting the causes of this phenomena. What I personally find more annoying than the problem is the people who apparently make no attempt to discover what might be causing the problem, nor how to correct it (by searching previous posts - of which there are loads!), before posting their whingeing comments on the forum attacking both you and the website.

It might be a good idea for you to post a link, or notice, on the Homepage advising people what to do to correct the problem if they do experience it, thereby avoiding those of us who seldom see the issue (and who clearly visit the site often enough to have seen both problem and recommeded solutions) from being subjected to the infantile comments of those throwing their teddies out of their prams.

Might save you some grief in the long run.

Regards Tom

Thread: Properties of "Key Steel"
06/07/2012 10:50:25

Weldsol,

That had occurred to me, I just haven't got around to it yet.

Many thanks for taking the trouble to respond.

Regards Tom

05/07/2012 10:44:04

David,

Many thanks.

I had realised that it might be PGMS and that it could be chopped from longer stock, but I don't think so. I suspect it is silver steel - though I was only going to use it for axles.

Regards Tom

04/07/2012 11:00:39

Gents,

Many thanks for your responses.

Have either of you come across ground round steel rod in 13 inch lengths which wasn't silver steel?

Regards Tom

03/07/2012 15:51:06

Hi,

I have been given a quantity of what I was told is "key steel" (as in keying pulleys to shafts). The rectangular/ square material is clearly that (and was in packets declaring it as such) in a variety of odd sizes. Does anyone know whether this is likely to just be accurately sized mild steel, or something harder/ stronger? If only mild steel, I'll just use it as stock, but wouldn't really want to waste something more specialised.

The round stock I was given looks to me to be silver steel (drill rod) with a ground finish and in 13 inch lengths. Is there any other type of steel which comes in those lengths anyone is aware of?

Much of the metal has been stored in a damp atmosphere and exhibits some small degree of pitting - though I could still use it for 16mm rolling stock axles, etc.

If anyone has any ideas about the likely composition, or machinability of the material, I'd appreciate your views. I haven't had the chance to try machining any of it myself yet

Regards Tom

Thread: Small diameter turning tool
11/06/2012 14:36:20

Graham,

If you have a "standard" QCTP with two tool positions set at right angles to one another there is a neat trick I saw demonstrated by Jake Sutton on the SMEE stand at Sandown Pk last year. He used a support (as per the Jabus) in the tool position at right angles to the lathe bed axis and a TCT tool in the other position to cut the material. If I recall correctly, he said that once you'd set up the cut (to get the desired diameter), you had to leave the support loose, until everything was running and then lock it in place.

He describes this (and there is a picture of it) in P575 of ME of 21 Oct 2011 - in his article "My 2 1/2 inch Gauge Adventure".

I haven't tried it yet, but thought it looked an excellent idea and less fiddly than the Jabus.

Appreciate that my description may confuse some, but refernce to the article should make it clear.

Regards Tom

Thread: Uses for old brake discs.
29/05/2012 17:25:15

Thanks for the repsonses chaps.

Ian SC - yes you do get black fingers from the dust!

Don't think I'll worry about metalurgical testing - looks like others have found they work Ok as material for nornal cast iron components - and I wasn't intending resmelting them!

Regards Tom

29/05/2012 10:07:36

Having read this thread, when first posted, I happened to be looking for some material to use as a former for flanging a boiler end plate. At the same time, my 2001 VW needed new rear discs, so I asked the garage to retain one for me, so I could give it a go.

Having now started cutting the disk up, I can report that it seems to be cast iron. Drilling it produced fine silvery flakes (like the iron filings you used as a kid in magnetism experiments), rather than threads of swarf. My disc was worn to 9mm thick - might be useful as raw material for 16mm scale loco wheels!

If any one knows of a simple test to confirm it is cast iron, I'd like to hear from you.

Regards Tom

Thread: Macc Models
04/05/2012 09:52:06

Mike,

I had exactly the same problem a couple of years ago (recognise things could well have changed since then). I placed an order for some steel, payed by PayPal and then - nothing! I tried phoning and emailing several times - all to no avail. In the end, I raised a dispute through PayPal and got a full refund - though never any expanation as to why I never got any response from Macc.

As per other posters' suggestions, I'd allowed for sickness, holidays, etc., but was just ignored. Haven't attempted to deal with them since.

Regards Tom.

Thread: Broken tap removal
22/03/2012 11:15:42

Bernard,

I would recommend that you do NOT use ferric chloride on copper. Ferric chloride is used for etching the copper tracks on printed circuit boards. Richard Parsons is right that it will attack the steel faster, but it will still attack your copper.

I have seen various website posts re the use of Alum to remove steel taps from non-ferrous metals and which appears to be fairly non-aggressive - try googling for that.

Regards Tom

Thread: What cutting tools for mini - lathe (HSS or Carbide Tipped ?)
14/02/2012 11:09:21
Chris,
 
This is the third time I've tried to post ot this thread (don't you just love IE?).
 
My first lathe was a Cowell's, which was only capable of tiny little cuts. My work was transformed when I was given a set of brazed tip carbide tools (around 30 years ago). I have never gone back to HSS for general use and have used various types.
 
I now have a Myford S7 and am using £7.50 10mm Sq replaceable tip tools from Chronos (includes one three-sided tip and allen key). Although specials, the tools are branded Glanze. A replacement tip is about £3.00 and gives three cutting edges.
 
I regularly turn 3/4" MS hex bar cylindrical using these tools (without coolant) and without ever having broken a tip (touch wood). I tend not to take too aggressive a cut and they work for me. Obviously, you need to avoid banging them around in the tool drawer to avoid chipping them.
 
I'm sure we'd all like to be expert in hand grinding HSS tools, but presumably, you'd rather be using your new lathe! I can't comment on the quality of the Clarke tools - presumably others will be able to do so.
 
Regards Tom
Thread: Test
14/02/2012 10:57:06
Ah - that one worked. Presumably because I clicked "compatibility mode" before this post.
 
Regards Tom
14/02/2012 10:55:31
VC
 
Am having the same problem - posts just seem to disappear!
Regards Tom
Thread: The Sandown Park Model Engineer Exhibtion 2011
14/01/2012 13:51:48
Thank goodness someone put his head above the parapet (Mike Malleson). I was beginning to think that everyone else had been at a different exhibition to me!
 
The models were superb and both inspired and made one feel incompetent at the same time; the venue was great (except for the much commented on lack of seating), but I thought the traders were poor. The larger ones were fine (Tracey, RDG, Chester), but I thought that too many of the others were selling tat, or rusty junk (apologies - I've doubtless included some good people in with the rest)! Some suppliers didn't seem to have taken as much stuff as usual - perhaps we don't buy enough!
 
I know we are our own worst enemies, always on the look out for a bargain, but I agree with Mike, the emphasis ought to be on the Model Engineering, not on the sort of odds and ends we can readily buy in the local B&Q.
 
Regards Tom
Thread: Myford Lathe service
15/12/2011 12:20:14
It is nice to see so many users happy with the service received, but would anyone like to give a rough order of cost, please? Obviously it will depend upon distance travelled, time spent, parts needed, etc., but are we talking £200, £500, or £1000?
 
Any form of ball-park, budgetary estimate, would be much appreciated.
 
Regards Tom
Thread: Morse Taper Removal
15/12/2011 12:15:09
I have an Axminster Micro Mill and was not at all happy about pounding the drawbar with a hammer to release the M2 taper collets. In fact, when I first fitted my Vertex milling chuck, I couldn't get the damned thing to move at all!
 
My (entirely inelegant) solution was to tap the top section of the spindle (which is soft) M12 and which allows me to:- remove the drawbar; pop in a short version of said bar (with a screwdriver slot in the top, allowing it to be screwed into the collect,or chuck); screw in an M12 bolt which is then tightened up and pushes the collet, or chuck, out with a loud bang!
 
With the new Vertex chuck mentioned above, I applied so much force this way that it distorted the 3/8" dia push rod - but it did come out eventually. I now apply a thin layer of WD40 before fitting collets, or chucks, and have had no problem since.
 
Tom
Thread: Sherline verses Cowells
14/12/2011 17:39:22
Steve,
 
I have had a Cowells lathe for around 30 Years (the ME one, rather than the clockmaker's). I use it for general model engineering, rather than horology.
 
My experience is that it isn't fantastically accurate (that's down to your skill) and you get very sick of removing metal a few thou at a time (because if you try to take a bigger bite, the belt slips and it stalls). So, if you are producing small bits for OO, or even O gauge model railways, it will probably be Ok (though O gauge wheels and boiler parts might be problematic). I'm not saying you can't do these bits, but care and a lot of patience is required.
 
Providing you accept that it will not be as accurate, and you might well have to put effort into setting up and adjusting, I think you'd be better off with a Chinese mini-lathe.
 
I've nothing against Cowell's, it is a good machine - but value for money - I don't think so.
 
I've recently renovated a Myford S7 and the choice that gives you (in terms of metal removal) is streets ahead of the perceived accuracy of the Cowell's. I paid the same for the Myford (around £500) that I did for the Cowell's 30 years ago.
 
The other man's grass is always greener - I guess you pays your money and takes your choice!
 
Regards Tom
Thread: Myford headstock bearings
04/12/2011 16:32:06
Bob,
 
Firstly - don't panic - the S7 is mechanically simple. You move the rear bearings, as a pair, back and forth, using the C spanner on the castellated collars, so as to pull the cone-shaped headstock bearing into it's bronze bearing. Look on ebay to see the spindle shape - there's one for sale there currently.
 
If it is too tight, it might be (though there are many alternative reasons) that the spindle has been pulled back hard into the bronze bush - it is possible to lock it solid and Myford suggest you do that then slacken off by a 1/4", or 15 degree rotation, of thecollar. If you do slacken the right hand collar, you might need to tap the left-most end of the spindle with a soft-faced hammer to push the cone towards the tailstock in order to slacken it off.
 
I know that the section in the booklet reads complicated, but when you manage to get your head around what they actually are telling you to do, it is both obvious and simple.
 
Regards Tom
Thread: headstock link belt
06/10/2011 13:13:50
Norman,
 
Did you just replace the headstock belt, or did you do the motor one as well?
 
I'd thought a lot of the noise on my S7 was coming from the layshaft needle rollers (which had previously been greased, rather than oiled) and was "getting around to" replacing them - hence my query.
 
Sounds (no pun intended) like it might be worth my changing the belt first and seeing whether that brings the noise level down somewhat.
 
Regards Tom
Thread: Collet Chuck set.
29/09/2011 19:36:27
Steambuff makes an interesting point re hitting the drawbar with a hammer.
 
To avoid doing this on my Axminster MicroMill, I drilled the top part of the mill spindle (which is soft, unlike the morse taper part) using my pistol drill and tapped it M12. This allows a short bar to be inserted (obviously after the long one has been removed) and an M12 bolt screwed down against the bar, forcing the chuck out of the taper - saving hammering which always feels likely to damage the machine.
 
Regards Tom
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