Member postings for Thomas Staubo

OK, that's interesting. I have never heard of that.

I'm pretty sure I will go for 7 1/4".

What size axle did you use?

Nice work!

What is the dimensions of the springs you are using?

Thanks for the encouragement, Ron. And for the pictures.

It's interesting to see that you mounted the axle boxes directly in the frames!

What kind of bearings do you use?

I would like to have the wheels on the outside of the frame, and coupling rods. Would probably go for roller chains from the motor(s) to the axles.

With having coupling rods, I would only need chain to one axle (either one or two motors).

One question: If I build a 0-6-0, do I have to think about the middle axle binding if tight rail radius??

Our track will have no less than 10m radius at the smallest.

Here's the page about the Quickie **LINK**

It's very simple, maybe a bit too simple? I'm not sure I like the way the chassis is unsprung, only the body.

I'm wondering if there is an easier way to create axle horns and axle boxes, with ball/needle bearings perhaps.

But it's a very nice loco type. I have already thought about a loco of the same type.

I love the way they look almost like a steam loco, with the coupling rods and counterweights.

Some are seemingly constructed by steam loco engineers, like this one:

I have looked on a lot of Hudswell-Clarke and Hunslet pictures and they are very nice looking, but in the end I may go for a Norwegian model.

Either a Di2:

Or a Di5:

I already read Ron Laden's thread. There wasn't that much info about the chassis, but there was some interesting info about the motors he used.

Despite my Google-fu I couldn't find any website or contact information for Jan-Eric Nyström. But it looks like the model railway is situated at the Finnish railway museum in Hyvinge.

Edit: I found his personal website now, he is an animator by trade:  http://sparetimelabs.com/animato/animato/steam/index.html

I did find a picture of what I think is the Quickie:

Edited By Thomas Staubo on 20/07/2019 02:49:44

Greetings gentlemen!

I live in Norway, and we are in the process of building a track on the site of a museum railway, planned to be driveablesometime in the autumn. It will be dual gauge, both 5" and 7 1/4".

Our club doesn't have any 7 1/4" locomotives yet, or rolling material, as we haven't had a suitable railway built. We only have a couple of 5" steam locos and four wagons. But there are several 7 1/4" steam locomotives under construction.

I'm also interested in buying a 7 1/4" loco, but as I'm not a pensioner, I feel I don't have the time to build a steam loco of any gauge.

But a battery powered loco, either a model of a diesel or electric shunter loco is easier and quicker to build, so I have thought about that for a while.

Are there any plans for the chassis of 0-4-0, or preferably a 0-6-0 battery powered loco available??

The body I can construct from sheet metal, or perhaps mdf as I saw a 5" loco on this forum, was built from.

Thomas

Edited By Thomas Staubo on 19/07/2019 21:35:05

I had an idea about making a taper attachment for my Myford ML7 from some linear rail. At first I contemplated using the round "Thompson rod" like this:

But then I saw the ones with lower profile, like the MGN15, and I think they are stiffer for their size :

It has been done before. Here's a cuemaker that made a quite long one.

And it doesn't seem too difficult to make, and the linear rails are cheap from China.

I'm not sure how long to make it though, I think a bit longer than the original one would be nice.

Does anyone here know the travel of the original Myford taper attachment?

And how large angles should I aim for? Is 10 degrees too much?

Got a problem?

It was soft aluminium, and not very fine chips. A chip brush would be better though, and I would use one on sharper chips especially.

To clarify, the first video I posted titled "Whipp shaper" was not mine. I just think it was a nice video with appropriate music

The second video is mine.

And this is my small shaper. It has 200mm ( 8" ) capacity.

Edited By Thomas Staubo on 09/08/2017 16:22:50

The programming is the hard part for me. You can say it's greek to me.

Electronics I can manage far better. I searched for "Arduino GUI" to see if there's an easier way. And there seems to be several GUI based programs, but I don't know if it's something for serious use, or if it's just for kids use.

Anybody tried something like that??

Aah, that's the same size as the one I linked to. I don't think you can buy any smaller than that.

That means that you have to make your own tailstock chuck from scratch too!

Great work David!

Too few are making models of machine tools IMHO.

The tailstock chuck you attached looked out of proportions though.

But I have a tip for you; I bought a miniature chuck from Banggood, that may be more appropriate in size. I thought I would show the size of of the one I bought, by taking a picture in my hand, but I can't locate it at the moment (too small maybe? )

It has a JT0 taper, but comes with a tapered adaptor if you need. Dimensions is ø 21.5mm x l 35mm

Here's the link:

**LINK**

This is for a mk2, if it suits you:

**LINK**

How about using flex hones, especially for holes smaller than the normal hones do.

They go down to 4mm.

a 1/10 scale prototype for climate change

The grip-tru chuck with adjusting screws is a good idea, but I don't think I can incorporate that on my backplate now.

But if I'm not satisfied with the runout when I mount my chuck, or if I need extra precision, this is the method I would use:

Watch from 22:50

He has a slight clearance on the chuck register, and by loosening the clamping bolts he can bump the chuck so the workpiece runs true.

.

Edited By Thomas Staubo on 24/02/2017 08:12:27

It wouldn't be that often that I would want to run it in reverse, but one purpose is to screwcut internal threads by running the tool from left to right (to avoid crashing the tool in the bottom of a blind bore).

Roger's suggestion with the clip may be an alternative. Does it lock the chuck on, or does it only prevent it running off.

Michael, I can't picture how your solution would work:

An alternative method of locking might possibly be to convert a radial pressure from locking screw[s] into an axial force; which would then load the chuck screw thread.