Member postings for Lordedmond

M.M

Check your lost wax castings very carefully mine were undersized twisted and cast of a yellow metal that is like chewing gum

They are not fit for purpose and I bined the lot and fabricated the said castings , as Jo commented the WJ parts are under sized width wise Evan the replacement was to thin ,bin again and fab up a new set.

I am of the opinion that the waxes were made from AM finished parts and therefor are to small after casting

The engine runs fine when completed but the valve chest is of poor design and is difficult to get a smooth flat face down that hole

Good luck Stuart

For brass zero top rake ie flat just a smidge front and side clearance

Honed to a fine finish note the work finish cannot be better than the tool finish

And not least iif the tool has touched steel it will be NBG for brass unless you re hone it

Stuart

Eye there John done a good few DC amature reshafts a Stanton its a huge job com de soldered tails lifted com off the IE and Lams off the DE

Then sweat the whole lot back up its OK with wires but a pain in the butt with tape copper 1/2 X 1/16 was normal up to 100 hp

It was about a weeks work on a 50 hp . So I can see why you put it back to true

Stuart

page not found error 404

Stuart

Mike you beat me to it we now have a Loctite filled oilite bush instead of a oil filled oilite bush . Not the best situation ,time for a new bush me thinks

Stuart

Martin

I agree do not ream oilite , As to " Myford " now they are not and never will be the Myford of old ,I would not trust there advice at all they do not have the know how about the lathes nor do they have the information regarding what part fit what , I will stop now for fear of the mods axe

All I will say is " caveat emptor "

Stuart

Btw my big bore LH counter shaft bearing runs warmer than the RH one

We used to fill them by placeing a thumb on the bottom of the bearing fill with oil and press your other thumb on top you could see the oil weep thigh the sides.

Are the shaft motor ,lay shaft and spindle truly parallel , and the pullies in line.

You can get the lay shaft twisted in relation to the spindle

Stuart

Edited By Lordedmond on 03/11/2014 15:37:22

I would say the blast nozzle is to big

I built a William and the small nozzle came out and left a 3/32 hole it would not get up to pressure nor would i ever lift the safety .

If you have been to a talk by Gordon Smith he demonstrate just how small a hole you need to prevent his test boiler getting up to pressure if my memory seves me right it was about 1 mm

good luck

Nick I have one of these and like you it is totally useless on steel ,bad finish ,poor clearance at the chuck end ,total waste of money.

my Hemingway one is so much better but as we all know it's made in the UK and has a bearing so it must be good

that my opinion but your mileage may vary, as a note I did a review as requested by a follow up email after purchase but guess what it's now are to be seen , maybe only good ones get thought the winge filter

Stuart

Ok

I'll bite I must be in the minority but I do not find the price that bad if it were only for an accurate error free drawing set IF ONLY

the price we pay out for a drawing that is full of errors that has not been corrected from the years fof LBSC beggers belief one sutch plan for a 3 1/2 loco has the longtitudanl stays 1 inch lower that the firebox roof ?????

my mony is perfect or they would not accept it but the quality of the drawing is far from it with the copy write holder not willing or unbale to correct the blatent mistakes that are still present today. I often wonder how the beginner to our hobby can ever make a model to the purchaced plans when they are so poor

so for me I do note mind paying the price asked if the drawing matches the quality of my money

Stuart

cilit bang will shift the rust stains as will citric acid dont ask how i know

the dry acid salts from chronos will do an even better job

Stuart

Try here

http://www.ptmachining.co.uk/

Paul is very good did a class 4 tank for me I have not affiliation with them but a satisfied customer note he is one of the few that tap out the dome bush holes and supply the SS set screws and nuts , all dummy studs were also tapped and screws supplied

he also will send you photos of your build as it progresses usful for the boiler inspector to view when logged into your clubs data base

Stuart