Here is a list of all the postings mick H has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: 9x20 Lathe Parts |
13/01/2012 07:29:35 |
Wotsit....I have done the conversion highlighted by Tel.....it works very well.
Springbok.....I have left you a pm
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Thread: Fits, play and axleboxes |
11/01/2012 07:12:28 |
Clive....was it necessary to relieve all of the axleboxes on your Evening Star? I have got the LBSC / Martin Evans book, Evening Star, in 3 1/2", and I see that it says the axleboxes should slide freely without shake.
Mick
Edited By mick H on 11/01/2012 07:20:08 |
Thread: Soldering Hearth |
10/01/2012 21:12:11 |
Try Bath Potters' supplies for refractory bricks. |
Thread: Fits, play and axleboxes |
10/01/2012 21:04:46 |
Neil ....I am about to embark on a 2-6-2 loco build in a smaller scale (gauge 1) and I have similar concerns about the required fit of the axleboxes......although I am not at that stage yet. I have had advice ranging from free fitting to close fitting and I think that it will be a case of playing it by ear when I get there. One piece of design advice I have had and which LBSC also secifies on his 3 1/2" Tich is the single flanged axlebox which allows the axlebox to tilt in the frames. He states that the purpose is to iron out the humps and hollows on uneven track and I suppose this would be much the same as a very loose fitting axlebox. I do wonder though, whether this would be appropriate to a 6 coupled loco.......Tich is an 0-4-0 . I think that I will keep this in mind as a fallback position if things don't work to plan. Sorry I can't be of more assistance.
Mick |
Thread: Bandsaw blades |
07/01/2012 14:35:35 |
My blades arrived this morning and the invoice was for a pound less than I thought at £31.85! Gave one of them a trial and those gentlemen who recommended them are quite right......they are like chalk and cheese compared to the carbon variety, so many thanks for the advice you gave. One other piece of advice I would welcome is regarding how much tension should be put on the blade and how can this be measured ?
Mick
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Thread: Lathe cutting out of true |
05/01/2012 18:38:18 |
To check headstock mandrel / tailstock alignment I was told to insert a centre in each and bring them together with an old fashioned razor blade trapped between the two centre points. If there is perfect alignment the razor blade will be held perfectly vertically.
Any misalignment will result in the razor blade twisting......top to bottom or left to right. I have found that height alignment is usually good and it is the left / right that needs adjustment. On my lathe it is then easy to adjust the tailstock unti the razor blade adopts the perfectly vertical position. Undoubtedly there are more accurate ways of testing alignment but as well as ease and rapidity I have found this method will produce pretty accurate results.
Edited By mick H on 05/01/2012 18:40:48 |
Thread: Angle Grinder Cut Off Saw Attachments any good? |
05/01/2012 18:16:45 |
Windy.......I bought one of these and a load of cut off discs with exactly what you have in mind, but I don't think I ever completed a cut off successfully. The main problem as I recall was that it was not possible to hold the metal bar rigidly enough. Discs do not last long and the mess it made was quite substantial....impossible to use it in the workshop. So thumbs down from me I am afraid.
Mick
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Thread: Bandsaw blades |
05/01/2012 15:45:04 |
Terry....just ordered 2 blades...Starrett M42 10/14 varitooth for the princely sum of £32.35 including p&p. I'm happy with that ......not a great deal more than I was paying for the cheapos. Edited By mick H on 05/01/2012 16:08:03 |
05/01/2012 15:17:32 |
Yes Harold it is pretty good......I have just spoken to Ian at Tuffsaws and he has given me a very similar price.......the icing on the cake is that he GUARANTEES that if the blade breaks at the weld he will reweld it free of charge or if it cannot be welded he will replace it free of charge. Seems to me he can't be fairer than that. |
05/01/2012 15:17:28 |
Yes Harold it is pretty good......I have just spoken to Ian at Tuffsaws and he has given me a very similar price.......the icing on the cake is that he GUARANTEES that if the blade breaks at the weld he will reweld it free of charge or if it cannot be welded he will replace it free of charge. Seems to me he can't be fairer than that. |
05/01/2012 13:49:39 |
Thanks John...sounds as if they are carbon but I will ask for a quote for HSS. |
05/01/2012 13:29:27 |
Were they bimetal or carbon John? |
04/01/2012 14:44:30 |
I have just had a bandsaw blade fail on me.......split at the weld. It is only a cheapo carbon blade and I am not particularly enthusiastic about trying to braze it together again. I now need to buy a couple of blades as replacement and spare. I have only had two breakages in as many years but they seem to fracture for no apparent reason and I can only guess at fatigue in the joint. The question is, do I buy more cheapos to throw away when they break or do I buy the more expensive model that allegedly has more life in it.....bimetal or whatever. I am aware of the old saying about how you get what you pay for but unfortunately I have found out to my cost in the past that this is not always true. Do these things ever come with a guarantee of any sort?
Any advice will be gratefully received.
Mick
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Thread: Material suppliers |
03/01/2012 20:16:22 |
Bob....I don't know whether this will assist but when I started into this infernal hobby I used to buy in small amounts to complete a job.....and found that not only was I spending a lot in the postage and packing side of the business but I never seemed to accumulate any spare stock. I decided to "invest" about £100 on a load of budget packs from GLR.....about 30Kg in all which they delivered by courier for about £15. I now have a large reserve stock in a wide range of materials from which to select for the job in hand.......I wish that I had done this from the outset as it avoids a lot of frustration and hanging about waiting for stuff to be delivered. I am sure that GLR are not the only suppliers that offer budget packs but I have been happy with their service.
Good luck
Mick
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Thread: Yet Another Tangential Tool Holder |
03/01/2012 09:34:13 |
Hallo Chris..... what took you so long??? Seriously.....what you are doing sounds really good ........your invention,by the way, not mine....I only asked a question. About dig ins....I have no problem creating them if I get a bit too enthusiastic over the feed rate. My lathe is a Warco 918...very light..... and the tool post is prone to a bit of flexing...so all the ingredients are there. Rear tool post does it a bit better but the cross slide T slots are not ideal in size or positioning for fixing it........so any help on the tangential front is welcome.
Shan't be at Ally Pally unfortunately. We used to live about 5 miles away in New Barnet but we now live 125 miles away in Lincolnshire so it is a bit too much of a trek. Do you remember the horse racing track at Ally Pally? I have only been model engineering for a couple of years and it was stimulated by what I saw at our local show.......so it's a bit ironic really that the Ally Pally show was on my doorstep when I had not even heard of model engineering.........and now I have to travel miles to get to a show.......Warwickshire and Harrogate are my nearest.
Looking forward to progress reports.
Regards
Mick
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02/01/2012 06:38:37 |
Hallo Chris......when I posted that question I wondered whether someone would pick it up and run with it.......you were an obvious candidate. Can't wait to see what you have come up with !!! |
Thread: Lard Oil or it's modern day equvalent? |
01/01/2012 08:26:53 |
Quite coincidentally, I was reading LBSC's words and music for a loco build yesterday and came upon this.............."A dose of cutting oil (eg "Houghtolard" and paraffin in equal proportions) or similar brand .......will walk through steel like a knife through cheese." Is this the lard oil that Paul is seeking? What on earth is Houghtolard ? |
Thread: Rivet snap dimensions |
31/12/2011 15:01:11 |
A gentleman called A. Mellor described an easily made "Hand Rivet Squeezer" in ME 15th May 1987 and a smaller version for riveting the wheels (awkward) of the Minnie traction engine in ME 6th May 1988. I have made both of these tools and they make a very good and easy job of riveting and forming perfect heads on1/16" and 3/32" rivets. I have not tried them on larger sizes. If anyone is interested in this tool, I would be quite happy to forward the articles by e mail.
Mick
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Thread: Yet Another Tangential Tool Holder |
30/12/2011 16:49:23 |
Has anyone ever invented a tangential parting off tool....or is the geometry all wrong ? |
Thread: Milling Cutter sharpening |
29/12/2011 16:53:58 |
Paul....there is a gentleman called Geoff Josey who advertises on the Home Workshop site who sharpens end mills and slot drills. Not only does he do a fantastic job of them but he charges an unbelievable £1 each plus postage....he will ask you to make the cheque payable to a hospice. Thoroughly recommended and very speedy service from a true gentleman........which reminds me, I must send off another batch to him.
His email address is ......... [email protected]
Regards
Mick
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