Member postings for alan-lloyd

A good quality baby alarm will give you a head start and a crow scarer and trip wire they use 12 bore blanks, frieghtens the life out of them, you can also get a automatic tear gas thingy of the interweb, I agree with an earlier post you must now go over the top with your security

I Had the same thing from Polly on the wheel castings for the Q1, basically I should of checked when I received them, so tough, we won't replace them, and I have never had any updated drawings despite the errors that have been posted .

Does any body know whats happened to the ME online index site, I cant get access to it, I am running windows 7.

Andrew, scrap it, re make the valve guide, I'm not familier with the design, but if it comes loose it could wreak your engine, Regards Alan

Cowells use them I believe

Mike I nearly always get what I want from The Tool Box in Colyton, Devon 01297 552868, or Tee publishing 01926 614101. Theres a Model Engineer index of articles published at, www.itech.net.au/modelengineer. Regards Alan

I think the pilot hole is too big and the reamer is not working but rubbing some what

Mike if its an old two stroke motor, wouldn't the oil be mixed with the petrol? so you can use the modern carb with bigger jets. just a thought. Alan.

Hi, I have a 254 plus and I bought any back plates that I needed from Warco and the studs from Myford. The back plates from Pratt Bernard are very expensive, shop around. Regards Alan

I think the best way to get the crankpin centres correct is to make a jig to fit the axle box holes then transfer this to the coupling rods. anyway too late now as its all quartered and glued , I agree with Neil you will now have to mess around making eccentric bushes, good luck, Alan

Allan, various people have advised you to make the crank shaft before machining the bearings, please please take it on board

Hi I think you need to look at a vintage motorcycle forum, they will have the knowledge to do what you need

I had an old Volkswagen, it had a water cooled oil filter housing, which rotted through to the oil ways, because the oil is at a higher pressure it went into the water, I filled it a couple of times with degreaser, but didn't run it up, drained and filled with water, it was perfectly ok. After all what will a little oil harm in the coolant system.

I bought one years ago, never used it, save your money for something more useful.

Sorry by the way if your anywhere near Herts you can come round and have a go, also

Hi, I have the 254 plus metric lathe, mine has the bolt on chuck, you get used to it, but I do wish it had a clutch fitted, I don't think it does a lot of good keep stopping and starting the motor. Back gear on mine is only two cap heads as well. In hindsight I think Andrew is correct, you will get better value for money else where, and if you can buy a Hardinge the Rolls Royce of lathes, do not hesitate, just build a good thick concrete base. Good luck.

Hi sorry I have lost the plot, Jason is correct, the offset is .5mm offset towards the head.

Hi bit late now but there are no errors in the cam box drawings from 2006, and there are no spacers on the cam shaft, the cams lobes are 6mm wide with bosses each side, one side 3.5mm wide the other 4.7 wide, the 3.5 bosses go together in the middle, this gives you your 13mm centres same as the valve centres, with the cams on there shaft the overall dimension is 28.4. the cambox is 45mm long with a 30mm long slot, 7.5mm each end, the bearing housings are 8mm wide therefore protrude .5mm either end into the 30mm slot, which will leave you with .6mm end float if your measurements are that accurate. The cambox is 15mm deep and the cam bearing holes offset towards the head by 1mm. Regards Alan.

I read somewhere you were advised to turn these variable speed Chinese machines down to zero revs when switching off

Nice sliding fit will be fine not too tight, I suggest you buy Tim Coles book Model Steam Locomotives this will give you all the info you need,