Here is a list of all the postings Thor 🇳🇴 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: EMCO compact 8 parts |
19/10/2012 18:19:07 |
Hi Y C, Like John Alexander I have an old Compact 8 (1976) and the olnly part exchanged is the cross feed nut. I got my spare from Austria (Emco Holz und Hobby). If you can't find a replacement part, it is not too difficult to make one. I did when making a topslide with longer movement. Regards Thor |
Thread: ER32, ER25 or Direct R8 collets ? |
19/10/2012 18:02:03 |
Hi Chris, using R8 collets will give you maximum height between milling machine table and the cutter. To use ER-32 colleets you need a collet chuck, this will reduce the maximum height between table and cutter compared to using R-8 collets. However each ER collets have a 1mm range, so you need fewer collets. Regards Thor Edited By Thor on 19/10/2012 18:20:12 |
Thread: Atlas 10" runout |
12/10/2012 19:16:30 |
Hi Martin, I don't have an Atlas lathe, and my lathe is not nearly as old as yours (from 1976), but I get a runout about 1/4 of your result using just the old MT3 centre. Measuring about 20mm from the spindle nose. Testing for play in the bearing is good advice, you may be able to adjust how much play in the main bearings. Regards Thor |
Thread: Workshop Picture Thread |
02/10/2012 05:26:40 |
Thor |
Thread: Milling Machine Lubrication |
22/09/2012 07:23:28 |
Hi Peter, I just got a similar milling machine (HBM BF25) with the same sight glass as yours. I e-mailed HBM and got the reply that this is not used to oil the gears. You can remove the sight glass and apply grease to the gears (there should be grease in there from the factory). When finished greasing just pop in the sight glass. Also on my milling machine the gears and splines make some noise. Regards Thor |
Thread: home made lathes and milling machines |
03/09/2012 07:05:41 |
Hi Ian, There are several Yahoo groups about building your own machine tools. Here's a few: multimachine Multimachine-Concrete-Machine-Tools multimachine_india machinebuilders homemademills
In addition there are several gingery_machines groups. May be you will find some of them interesting? Regards Thor |
Thread: Setting angles |
27/08/2012 05:56:21 |
Hi Mike For small angles may be this site will be helpful? I suppose you could use the same principles as a sine table uses to set the topslide accurately. Like this or this? Thor Edited By Thor on 27/08/2012 05:59:14 Edited By Thor on 27/08/2012 05:59:35 Edited By Thor on 27/08/2012 06:04:15 |
Thread: Steam valve plans |
11/07/2012 06:00:37 |
Hi Wolfie Maybe this link is helpful? It is for a locomotive but I guess it might work for your engine. Regards Thor |
Thread: Uses for old hard drive platters? |
06/06/2012 11:58:58 |
I use pieces of such platters as small parallells or to protect the milling table. As you say Tony, they are accurately machined, and my harddisks seem to have a limited life span (so I have a steady supply). Regards, Thor |
Thread: Making a Stuart 10V or 10H |
22/04/2012 08:33:42 |
I too have enjoyede Harold's articles on his website. It is in my Bookmarks list. Thor |
Thread: Weldability of various steels |
17/02/2012 09:37:05 |
Hi Len Here is a link to the Steel, cuts like butter thread: http://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=49282 Regards Thor |
Thread: Message to the Webmaster! |
17/02/2012 06:34:52 |
I have tried the new editor, and has had no problems so far. I am using Windows XP and Firefox 10.0.1. Regards Thor |
Thread: End mill types |
14/02/2012 07:59:37 |
Hi Alan For gripping plain shank end mills or slot drills, you can use ER collets. Most of these collets have a gripping range of 1mm (a 6mm collet would grip tooling with shanks from 6mm down to 5mm). You can get a wide variety of ER collet chucks, and you can buy the collet chuck from one source and collets from another. Thor |
Thread: Double thread T- nuts |
27/01/2012 06:32:26 |
Hi Wolfie I have used T-nuts similar to JasonB's sketch for several years. They work well. The length of the nuts is so that I just can get them into the T-slots of my Mini-Mill at the end where the handle is. If you need longer T-nuts on the Mini-Mill you can insert them from the other end of the table. Thor Edited By Thor on 27/01/2012 06:33:01 |
Thread: Link to a useful website. |
24/01/2012 18:00:37 |
Thanks Martin and Terry for the links. Seems to be much to learn from that old book, Regards Thor Edited By Thor on 24/01/2012 18:03:56 |
Thread: Tipped Tools |
30/11/2011 05:25:33 |
Hi Wolfie, I agree with mgj, you can use positive rake tipped tools in a small lathe. I find them very useful when turning hard material or material with hard skin or hard spots (castings). I recommend you try a tipped tool in your lathe, especially for roughing cuts. You can then use HSS for the finishing cut. Regards Thor |
Thread: Scriber |
20/10/2011 06:01:48 |
Hi Wolfie, I don't think mild steel has a high enough carbon content to be hardened by heating and quenching. JasonB suggests silver steel which has a much higher carbon content and can be hardened by heating and quenching, then tempered. Thor |
Thread: ME issue 4270 |
19/09/2011 05:27:46 |
I agree with John S., PDF is a much better solution. Thor |
Thread: Milling Machine |
27/07/2011 06:33:14 |
Hi Alan, I too clean the T-slots with an old toothbrush. To prevent to much swarf entering the T-slots may be you could cover them with Perspex or something similar? With a bit of heating the Perspex can be bent to make a tray for the swarf, then lift the tray off the milling table and brush the swarf into the dust bin. May be that will save you some time. Thor |
Thread: Machine Manuals |
09/06/2011 11:25:00 |
Hi James, I think it is a good idea. For some manuals the company holding the copyright probably doesn't exist any longer, and these shouldn't pose a problem. If the company still exist I think there will be copyright issues. Thor |
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