Member postings for Jon

Nice work Ian.
Downside to doing that way is horizontal work the job would have to be raised off the bed spindle to the 2nd bolt on box. Caught me out in the past with standard box, job needs raising off bed 8" + centring.

Larry parts are available as a bolt on replacement. The gearbox on mine packed up 8 years ago, to replace comes with motor and transfer box £244, more than 1/4 cost paid for a new Super Lux.

Ray

Quill handle, take it you mean the quill locking lever.
Just check the two threaded clamps are in place in Martins reply next above.

You will be able to get the parts from Chester in Brownhills, Warco or any Rong Fu rebadged name over the last 30 odd years.

Do recall Graham Eng West Brom and Wolvo advertising metric or imperial along with option of MT3 or R8.

M2 here Ron, can have to 10 £2.60 to 100 off less than £11 delivered, downside theyre stainless.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M2-M2-5-M3-M4-Metric-Standard-Pitch-A2-Stainless-Steel-Hex-Head-Bolts-Screws/291244203870?hash=item43cf81df5e:m:mmZI1-ZU5aTmnrvk5Ol0UIw:rk:14f:0

Going back 8 years the only European manufacturer of production screws was Holokrome in NL. From a good source who imports and sells to the shops in UK most screws were back then made in china. Long gone are the days of Unbrako and Holokrome up Scotland till the early 90's.
There are specialist screw manufacturing but costly.

Ebays your best friend there about 20th the price of some listed above and dont have to leave the room.

Another consideration would Shallow Head Cap Head screws be ok down to M1.6

1.1kw seems very little on the 140, most are 2.2kw 3ph 400v.

Since its a massive case size has to be 14" dia on my old 140 1 1/2hp 1ph 240v, i would be tempted as the easy way out to change the motor for a 3hp 3ph dual voltage modern type but be prepared to make or modify the plate mountings and or the 2 pulley belts.
Whilst here my old 140 used to draw at least 13A 240V on startup. Old motor probably needed rewiring etc = not worth it when can get modern new for same price or less.
Running it in VFD config will still be able to control by the clutch with no faffing about of any feedback wires to invertor.

Inverters do exist to run 400v from 1ph 240v, the way my M300 runs the last 8 years, but it will cost big time.

You can have metric machines with 3/8" drawbar, toolings all the same just the threads different.

No big deal any way until they break mid job, silver solder wont hold neither brazing. Only ones that hold up are v out, jointed and welded.
All thread will get you out of trouble but its quite weak and the thread will strip.

I need to replace 3 of them Sandviks for internal O ring grooves. They cut really well but dont like the price of them for just hss.
Beauty of that design is you can change a cutter over and retain zero though i do use two Sandvik holders.

Not the supply the 400v 3ph output, wheres that go to?
Independant supply of 400v to on/off, contactors, transformer and all?

As Jason said, getting from a scrap dealer you dont know what your getting.
Anything could have happened, what if the chunk of aluminium 6082 has had a blow torch on it destroying the tempering, you would unwittingly dismiss all aluminiums as the same garbage.

Unless its a large order from same supplier within easy travelling distance i get nearly all my stuff from ebay. Just avoid the monkeys that dont specify the grade theres dozens of legit business on there.

Whats it like when its off that cabinet?

Have seen and experienced a few times mills suffering same problems bolted to seemingly unbreakable robust wood. One the bench was made from railways sleepers and the tops. Never heard anything so loud in all my life.

Neils summed it up and seems to understand the problem.

2.2kw motor yes, but its powering a geared head in turn a variety of differing weights of chuck.
To explain whilst your ok in a 3ltr Diesel when locked in 5th it will eventually pull away from standing start. Try that in a 1200cc, 3rd might struggle with but not 5th. Add to the criteria the heavier the load ie size of chuck, its takes longer to get up to speed than say just a bare spindle. Same in a car heavier the load the slower it takes to get up to speed.
Now theres a max time limit think its 10 secs where it will give 150% or more overload upon starting, not enough when in top range of speeds it takes bare spindle on mine 8 -9 secs to reach 2500rpm. Add a chuck and it will exceed 10 secs and come up with an error and shut down. Do this often (several stop and restarts even in mid range) over 1hour 23 mins and guarantee that invertor will be as good as scrap.

Forget any soft start it wont do a thing. All you will get is the contactors and relays chattering until it ramps up closer to 400v, therefore once up to voltage its a hard start.

Gary whats it like when you give the spindle a push start whilst hitting the start lever? Mid range low

There is a cheaper option try a decent modern new motor first, mines been gold the last 12 months since doing so even with the 10hp invertor. New motor may have a very different cage and shaft size unless you pay through the roof. I had to make up a new motor plate and bore out the pulley.

The only way that 4kw invertror will power that lathe is like a vfd, straight to the motor direct. I had one it lasted 1hour 23 mins and still waiting for my money from said supplier 7 1/2 years on.
You then in control panel setup the soft start usually 3 seconds.

Depends what Dave intends doing.

A small mill wont have the power or capacity to match a small bench drill.

I have a robust well as far as they go asian 88mm dia column DP16 driller, its had no more than 3hrs use in 26+ years.
Far easier if theres no setup or job in the mill(s) to use that.
If you are local ish your welcome to the drill, it wont get used again and has a British 3/4hp motor.

Glad your sorted Adam.

For some time, decades have run cheap fluorescents likes of Wickes from a 4 bank switch.
Rear of partition of shop on 1 switch
Right side a single on 1 switch
Left side now a twin on 1 switch
Left further down on another switch.
Loft is linked in parralel off one of the feeds via a pull cord.
Never ever tripped a 6A MCB but the invertor and compressor did multiple times an hour on different circuits.

Only time notice any flickering whatso ever is when a tubes on its way out.
Also i dont buy rotational argument with what appears stationary, got a piccy some where from 16 yrs ago chuck spinning 1000rpm, quite blatant.
24 yrs ago an 100hz telly new out then you could detect strobing by waving your hand across. 50hz real easy to see.

Have seen some sellers stating the K rating for fluorescents, lower the softer whereas high 6000K its whiter and 'seemingly' brighter along hurtful eyes and shadowing with led! When a tube goes i just pop down to local hardware and buy one there and then paying over the odds around £4.

Fairly sure going back 12 or more years the max speed they could go to without problems was 2000rpm. There used to be a USA dealer modifying the castings to accept faster beefier bearings and modifying the spindle. Paid £900 for my Super Lux (ZAY7045L) sell off in 2004 recon everyone dismissed it as 3ph. Looked at it 8 yrs ago when replaced the inferior chinese bearings for SKF European. Parts are dear £244 for the elevation transfer box the motor sits on top. Really had it the last 5 years too much to put right.

Think i know the one you have Clive had my eye on one for a couple of years and substantially dearer. Has a two speed motor and the bearings have been uprated at factory. Theres a polish geeza on ebay selling them along with a couple of dealers over here.

Presume its about 1 1/4" dia, 2" sticking out will or should be ok, done it relentlessly where parts need to be done as one rather than removing and put back in the chuck wrongly.

If you look carefully you will see the tool post moving, coud be all manner of things. Other than that spindles way to slow, deep cuts if ever did get that far will break the cutter and or tip.

That type of tip not the tool you should be able to part 6" dia off in 6082 the worst of all evil. Just be quick when hear tonal change and draw out.

What will help is a 2mm parting tool and tip such as DGN Do Grip my favourite go to tool used for turning, grooving and parting. Saying that broke it after 6 years and cant find another at a respectable price.

I used to keep looking at mine, plenty of speeds available but just didnt spin fast enough 1250 rpm.

Face mounted motor and pulley would be inside the head!
Would need to make pulleys and adaptors to do so.

Junking the gears would get rid of a lot of weight plus the oil.

Without a spindle change, head modded for larger bearings these machines wont run a fast rpm.

I only get veering off using decent Eclipse hss blades in the supplied tool post kits.

Dont tend to part or groove deep using 2mm only to 38mm dia using DGTR Iscar. Makes no odds whether use neutral, left or right hand inserts, never veers off.

Whilst at it way too much sticking out the tool holder, may have enough for 4"+ dia.
Blade type you take a cut and keep pulling tool out as you go in, have done 6" dia in 6082, takes some doing with quick reactions coolant or not theres no warning.

In fact any of the other 7 parting or grooving tools non veer off but all are quality brands with quality tips Sco. Iscar, Arno, Teutatec etc.

Used to have to do better than that daily till 8 yrs ago to a lot finer tolerances.
Great end result and lock designs a work of art theres a few things wrong in other areas for quality work i could teach him.

Key to the close fit is working clean and sizing the two together. Trouble is hardening and tempering changes that, often a gaining in tolerance therefore needs fitting down after.

12" bastards the best we could find since 2003 would 3 days. Bahco wouldnt last the hour! Pre 2003 similar files would last two weeks, same with Vallorbe and all other producers quality went down the pan.

Would be hard to put a price on that as not everythings shown. Suffice to say at going rate that would warrant at least £20k, nice work.

Right Gary i am i think the only one on here that can give the honest true answer, that 5hp Invertor not a VFD is way under powered.

I had exactly the same scenario 8 years back to power an M300 2.2kw motor. I did buy the exact same invertor you have and it lasted 1hr 25mins, bye bye £600.

Remedy was to get the 10hp invertor, i paid £900 now well over £2.2k.

Whats happening the startup current is more like starting at least a 9hp motor, add on what ever the gear is in can be like trying to pull away in a car in 5th!
Even if you can get it running by givng it a push start, slightest cut put on will see the invertor constantly ramping up to a certain point where it will slow down. Thats with clean up cuts.

Same problem with a Transwave Convertor think 5hp? maybe more, except that was much worse, not even a menial cut 0.3mm could be put on in mid range speed without it deafening you and spindle slowing to a halt constantly.

Touch wood 7 1/2 years on the 7.5kw invertor is still running and used daily for several hours at a time, plus power the whole workshop. No need to remove and plug in each machine, theyre left permanently plugged in to 3ph sockets and can run several machines at same time.

Valid point that Howard couldnt agree more.
The own brand or cheap oils think are around £18 5 ltrs, dearer than Hydraulic oil delivered.

Robin there should be some where a fill level, whether a window or just a marker of some sort.
Current lathe has a window for the oil level, spindle gear picks up the oil and splashes it around. Fairly sure oil level at that is below the bottom of the bearings but it does have a top feed as well same with a 140.