Member postings for Jon

Ady are these branded batteries from reputable suppliers?
Many fake about and had same with 18650's where one would die whilst the others were still 70% full of charge.

A good link for those that need good batterys outside of AA, AAA etc https://www.ecoluxshopdirect.co.uk/
Use one of their 4 way chargers as well.

Never tried discharging more than once but as a last resort have zapped Dewalt NiCad batterys with a mig to no effect.

I would avoid any sellers advertising as AXA, BXA, CXA etc each suplier can have different sizes.

BXA alone presume theyre 200 Series and in that theres 200/100 and 200/200 plus any unisted just mention for centre height. Tool holders wont fit from else where.
If bought tool holders from say Machine Dro they wont fit they just sell on centre height with no numbering, been there got caught out twice.

The Warco linked are 250/200 so the proper ones that can be bought elsewhere £5.5 ea cheaper delivered. Usually get mine from Gloster Tooling 5 off £95 delivered that would be around £37 cheaper.
Now the 250/200 part relates to 200 as the type of holder, think 201 is a V, therefore just merely shop online looking for holders 250/201, 250/203, 250/207 etc and guarantee fit.

Unfortunately i gave 4 250 series tool posts away over the years complete with the naff parting blades and tool holders. One went on a WM290

Had a look around for images but havent seen any with what appears to be a small M12 hole. Usually a lot larger to accept MT2 or more likely MT3 with an internal M12 thread in the collets.

Certainly the slots are for tensioning end float but usually on underside.

There should be numerous T slots to use as fixings. Using MT as a means of centring isnt accurate in the slightest, its just the easy way out.
More substantial to bolt either direct to table with long screws or via an adaptor like this.

Table here is like mine with 4 T slots, makes adding a chuck on harder. Drilled through chuck and into RT and tapped, its solid and gain extra height.

Generally you centre the job to the machine. To centre table assuming it runs true (it may not) just take a reading on outside dead centre (i prefer these cheapies to any other ) and split the difference, job done. Wont work with a chuck on you take measurement from protruding round held by the jaws.

Two caps on mine.

For what its worth mine has been used daily since 2004 to 2010 approx 2hrs a day, 2010 onwards approx 5 hrs a day. Only in peak times the supply voltage drops to around 253v, often 260v+

Wish it been the motor that packed up on mine, but just about everything else. Motor would have changed for a faster jobby, fastest speed is just too slow at 1250 rpm making that 1hr job take 2hrs or more.

Quite respectable Petrolhead, i would have expected much worse.
Maybe the grade of aluminium, i always get the cutter deflecting to one side.

Those that intend buying new hole saws the Bosch quick release and arbor are the best, last longer and cut a bit quicker than Starret etc. Have and use both types of Bosch White and Blue for drilling through to 18mm thick in 6082.
I just the hole saw to cut a hole then bore out which brings i back on centre, 18 yesterday and close on 14k holes so far, cant go wrong or i would have changed 25 years ago they work within reason.

Very likely a 3ph motor of larger capacity say 2hp will have a larger case and spindle size. Definately wouldnt want to drop below a 1 1/2hp motor which will still be bigger than the 1ph.
Worst case just buy a longer belt and make or mod a new motor mount and of course bore out existing spindle pulley, had to do it last year on same lathe.

When thats done you still have no brake even if its supposedly built in the the invertor, scary. Cant beat a spindle start for that with foot brake.

2011 about £1k, bet they still want that used bare in mind only cost £750 delivered for a proper English M300, chalk and cheese!

Good advice from Andrew and Hopper.

Try another material first, if still no good its the inserts and grade used.
Angling top slide wont cure thats only for diyers.

Circlip how longs the hss gonna last, 1/4 the thread before fetching out and grinding back up constantly, not to mention future jobs some people cant spend al day on a 1 minute job.

Testament to British quality and tolerances assuming its older than 20 years.

Dont fancy removing my gearbox though must admit the last of its predecessor the 140 is a much better machine in several ways. For me the only gain with M300 is the no faff about with change wheels to cut any pitch imperial or metric - just dial it in simple.

Sorry its nothing like a Harrison M300 take no notice. It only uses a 40, 44, 88 and a 95 tooth for any thread whether imperial or metric. The only changes needed are to swap the 44 to the 88 and vice versa thats it, any pitch up to a certain range around 4mm pitch upwards or 3 TPI is the change over point.
https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/sites/7/images/member_albums/75533/816826.jpg

https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/sites/7/images/member_albums/75533/816827.jpg

5C all the way no comparison to ER things.

5C were used on autos and capstans to great effect over many decades when Britain ruled the world. Theyre robust as well and dont flex like ER holding work and biggest clencher 5C have more holding power no slippages or job moving.

Gave my 5C chuck, drawbar with built in handle away to a mate many years ago. I had a 140 he still has the 11", reason for parting i didnt like the price of the collets and considering the amount i would need.

A note, you should always machine in one without removing job from any chuck/collet or expect problems.

Couldnt have put it better myself Jonny.

I can see the point there Mike until planishings done, if at all. Certainly when thin CR4/HR4 parts come off presses it will form a burr, same with guillotines.

The ony time i wear gloves is when my donnies are cold.

Used to be working away then turn off the machine to hear scratching outside. Hedgehog crossing paving slabs then down past the garage and through side gate.

Have that concrete 1ft high slabs under fence and local woods is only 125 yards away.

Decent quality 1/4" Eclipse cobalt was about the only thing i could use on mine if you can still get it.

The only carbide mine would run is the Kennametal Top Notch tools turned down to 14.2mm. Though it did sit in a purpose made 4 way tool post housing boring bores etc ready to go.

Wish i could say the same, bought a Chester one for late night light work. It wouldnt turn the skin off rice pudding depite two new US boards and a repair.
Apart from that extremely flimsy.

Cant confirm but i did have metric on my old ML7.

See if an M5 screws in more than 1 1/2 revs.

Used to have an hedgehog come in every night until two years ago when i replaced the fence.
It goes elsewhere nightly now often seen opposite like clockwork around 8.45pm, the dogs love it.

Nice job Chris

One thing worth mentioning is there have been quite a few times where i have needed to remove left hand wheel and drop down a part to be machined.
One reason i never went for the factory style power feeds fitted to left side. Adapted a Bridgeport type to the right with extended lead screw and bracketry.

I usually dont bother deburing cross or end drilled and tapped holes. Why because the part needs finishing where any burrs will be removed.

Have a Noga deburrer i never use it, far quicker and better results obtained with a knife. One particular product i make has 78 debur holes a Noga wont touch r make it extremely difficult having tried it amounts to 1 1/2hrs versus knife done and dusted 6 mins.

Never it wastes needless time.

Recycling the local councils have played us for idiots going back well over 10 years.
Quite a few do not recycle or even landfill but rather ship it out to land fills in India complete with your name and address flapping about in the wind.

One local council tip theyre all jobsworths. Car pulls in and they leap out to see what you have of interest and wont help unload unless that person wants it.
As buying from there no chance, soon as items are placed on the floor side of car unloading it becomes their property and cant have back said one employee. Of course you can play them at their own game ie get rid of undesirable acids, works both ways.