Member postings for Jon

Totally agree Larry for some cheapies that wont get used much or for a one off both them mentioned are alright. Not good just alright.
However theyre in different league to the cheap foreign imports supplied by shop brands.

Having stuff made in asia costs more to return than having them made and shipped, not to mention all the hassle dealing with the problems. Most companys employ full time teams to vet and put right asian imports. Unworthy goods are just passed on, what they gonna do scrap what theyve bought. Wont see many on a certain site or they would get negative feedback!

My advice dont buy tat its cheap for a reason, source proper branded goods from the manufacturer and not some shops brand.
Even then aboves nothing to do with wearability of which theres a whole different world. Base Osbourne, Titex Presto Dormer etc i wont buy, they dont last.

A drill will always measure undersize, assuming have good quality, drill undersize then go through with size and will often be close.

Theres usually a large gap from top of read head to the 45 degree angle glass.
End caps off and slide out the glass and clean, dont force it.
Never had any problem on lathe in 8 years on X, Z01 and Z02 for tail stock, there again its done right. Vertical scale on mill proves unreliable about every 8 months, i get a grey residue spread over the glass. Vibration will set it off as well into a continual count up but never have cleaned X and Y in 12 years.

X axis is length of the bed, cross slide is Z or Z10 on a lathe, Y on a mill.

If it is Z axis theres serious potential problems with the quick and easy wham bam install at the expense of usability - lost at least 2" there. Also quite possible heavier debris has been forced through the seal and or tail stock knocking read head.
While i think of it have you got full travel? Looks very close at extremes of the seal, will feel slightly spongy then solid.

Purporting calls from Microsoft have been going on for decades, nothing new. Do you really think a multiconglomerate would waste their time seeking out people with a supposed problem.
Had many a call within hours of a fresh install over the decades, soon as you mention it they know theyve been caught and cut you off, guaranteed to work.

Seeing a massive influx of foreign call centres since January using a UK regional number. I can only block 20 so have to remove oldest first.

Emails i have show up with the senders address. This can be hacked and usually an extention of the proper email eg gov.uk, banks youve never been with, couriers never used to US taxation and so on, be vigilant. Called spoofing where they change the header. I have deleted todays but next time i will forward such an adddress looks real to the untrained also been going on decades ore so from the US.

Take it the 8 or 10mm is the thickness of flat bar or plate. May find off the shelf comes in imperial so would be a nominal 7.9mm or 9.5mm thick.
All we can decipher here is two aluminium parts bolted or screwed together. This could be end on? Or the two parts lying on top of each other one with a through hole the other tapped?

Either way better looking at cap headscrews, will look better counterbored. Can get shallow head cap screws.
M4 head dia usually 6.82mm x 4mm deep (2.9mm shallow head)
M5 head dia usually 8.45mm x 4.8 deep (3.5mm shallow head)
M6 head dia usually in excess of 9.3mm

If end on M4 my choice as leaves decent strength for counterbore, may need more than one screw.

To give an idea 4 off M3 grade 8.8 with 6.8mm thread engagement will take well over a tonne. Likewise M30X0.75 with 7mm engagement will take several tonnes of pressure, its not all about thread engagement.

Need more info on the specific application.

Fine threads can and will take serious pressure measured in tonnes.

Next time you whip the head off your cars engine, have a look its more than likely an aluminium casting weaker than 6082T6.

Agree Muzzer, been using the smaller (2.5 to 8mm) YG carbide for about the last 4 years but not the V7, cheap as chips comparitvely, last a decent amount of time and cut well.
Get mine off ebay and work out cheaper than the average crap hss, more so if a decent brand. 2 for £7 delivered sub 6mm, gone up a bit now.

Its the carbide quality, hardening, coating and final grinding that makes these good. Have similar flute angles etc in hss and a different animal with wear and flex of the cutters.

Only time chipped a carbide cutter is dropping them.

Back to original post, the cutter would have indefinately lasted a lot longer if the cutter and job were not allowed to get red hot, coolants your friend.

Propane is left hand thread done so that other gases cannot be readily interchanged.

What are we making here Robin?
One stud 28 UNEF with a 3/8"bsp the other end?
Or 28UNEF stud with a female 3/8"bsp?

The taper on the torch 'can' or could be used with olives or more in the case of high pressure air a conical stud goes in to that taper tightened by a floating nut to pull the two assemblies together.
On the right piccy looks like an o ring set below a shallow conical stud like thing, may seal on the left piccy taper at the start only or on the thin front face, just make the thread fractionally longer so it dont bottom out. Just test for leak, you will feel an o ring compress.

If you can remove or slide the female right piccy thread down to expose the o ring you can then test for fitment. You could even have the o ring seal up on a recessed shoulder allowing clearance on the bore for the conical stud.

Carb and brake cleaners do very little and expensive conidering the amount needed.

We used parafin applied with a brush to clean off decades of grimed on grinding dust to congealed hardened oils.

The oly other thing found is the cheap £1 spray on Elbow Grease found in pound shops and the like, works superb on alloy wheels.

Discolouring of aluminums is oxide and will need stripping to some extent

Well done Sophie theres few of us alike.

We used to do certain machine tooling and grinding for Milacron Brum as far as i can remember till early 90's.

Problem is its the current and past generations supporting buying foreign goods, like it or not. Buying foeign stuff meant long term losing their own jobs and industry, we now have nothing except cittgae industry and a few select specialist businesses.

Some may say Hondas and other Ja cars are made here, theyre not just assembled and profits go back to the Head Quarters same with JLR profits go to India.

Could try putting cutter on centre line rather than 1/3 dia out mentioned above creating same effect as the supposed big no no of this ilk.

With that in mind you are also having to over come lateral force generated rather than just rotational torque.

Centre up and keep closing the scissor and leave it running until desirable finish. Will work any where along round bar not just the start.

Must admit you are quite correct, think it was the demise of the quality tooling over previous decades leaving a few producers calling them bastards when more like a courser second cut.
Last genuine bastards available in bulk must have been around 2002/3, there on after impossible to find a decent cutting file or one that lasts 1/4 as long pre 2002.

Dreadnought

Millenicut

As above millenicut are straight teeth though can be angles like this.

Or like this Millenicut again.

Any file will scratch think about it, even a though proud over the whole file will scratch! They were only working with thin guage materials as well. You wont get even close to 10 thou with a millenicut yet alone file to sub thous!
Think that term millenicut used on aircraft is nonsense, most of the people didnt know how to use a file just learnt as they went on. In this case take a look at the last millenicut, will see the teeth are straight but angled- what that means is to mr average joe blogs is theyre pushing straight ahead right or wrong but the file effectively moves diagonally!
Now a tricked up filer can do that with any file just feeling for whats happening, cant teach that. Also this can and has been used to the filers advantage in clearing debris ie swing right to left in a scraping motion until starts to pick up, then opposite swing may or may not dislodge whilst also taking a cut.

If you are removing a fair bit of aluminium at least 1/2" wide or more the dreadnoughts your best bet.

If only a couple of mm to remove a second cut and bastard will do the job.

Millenicut will clog just as much as anything and not cut as good.

Nothing will stop aluminums clogging get used to it. Remedy is learning and feeling for whats happening with each swing to dislodge.

Richard i would avoid anything a person says who says keep files in cutting fluid!
It wont cut.

Most long established British companies out sourced products to be made in China and asia since the late 80's. Since the name now only responds to a previous long established name with no quality, theyre only box shifters that put 300% on for the privaledge of a bye gone name.

Luckily all my Stanley, Jenks and Cattel are from the 60's to mid 80's when quality was ripe.

We dont make anything in this country any more its probably been a good 30 years since its demise. 2% GDP against 60+% by the 60's and 70's and two generations on non the wiser.
What annoys me is form filling where by have to select an industry and within that a sector, nothing exists.

Confirm what Andrew says, i always use full profile tips daily on quality aftermarket items. Not once seen two edges collide on any pitch from 0.5mm to 3mm pitch or imperial to 11 tpi in any metal aluminiums, plastics, manganese bronze, steel to titaniums.

What i suspect is those that get a bad finish are super imposing rather than addressing or acknowledging the issue of tool, machine flex or actual poor tips used.
I do have a pack of cheap AG60 tips £25, to get a tolerable finish with brings out the machinist in you resorting to additional measures.

Said it often, theres no substitire for quality tools as hard as it is to muster. By that i dont mean shop branded stuff.
First choice of screw cutting inserts for me are Iscar approx £5-6 each, not far behind are Stelram and Seco. If not convinced try one.

Other downside is partial profile tips will cut a lot deeper at the non root that is created, every thread has some form of radius to it. Therefore not ideal when wanting two parts to join up exact with no runout. Will require a full profile tip for every pitch created, double that if doing internal threading, adds up but can buy singularly.

Depends on the application, does it need to be threaded.
Cam lock or similar if its for the same part, work well.

Think i know the seller Dave up NW, went through same process after specifically asking such matters. To be greeted with an email stating they dont, consult manufacturers of motor and Inverter but sent a circuit diagram for the pendant controller.
Very dear considering have to work it all out and £19 delivery charge that took 3 days for a pendant is unreal. Same Mitsubishi bought else where around £60 cheaper and arrived 2 days quicker, same with a better motor Brook Crompton motor bought from a dealer in Scotland, next day and at least £42 cheaper.

Still to faff around wiring it in since last October i am just using the motor bought, dare say i wont use the Mitsubishi and pendant it serves no added benefit but hassle and space needed to do so.

Measure the voltage at peak and non peak times.

Vaery rarely mine drops to 245v unless in peak times but used to go up to 266v non peak, generator across the road.

Never had a problem using decent full form tips in any metals to plastics from 40 rpm upwards.

Only time had problems is using shop branded stuff and they dont last either.

Nick your still not with me.

Traversing out doing internal threading needs a relief where by you can use it as a start point.
If cannot have a relief (thread just ends) you have to do conventionally should i say, straight in right to left. The only piccy i have not thread mentioned above just to show internal thread ends with no undercut at the end running in to a taper. No way can traverse out cannot feed the cutter in theres metal there and will break the cutter tip.

The other point even if there is a relief at back of the internal thread you still have to manually reposition to exact start point every pass revolving the chuck by hand over coming the torque (ok in mid ranges.) Jog function absolutely useless when might be 1/8 to 7/8 of a rev to line up, guarantee breaking a tip and or scrapping the job if up against a face at start point.
 

Those Iscar bars are unreal, one of my favourite and best tools ever bought with thru coolant, totally stunning in what they can do with ease. The tips are dear over £30 each shopping around for the larger 16mm shanked one with min bore size 18mm dia. Sometimes i will whip it out the holder and mill with it and change to 2.2mm rad, 45x45 degree or flat ended parting.
MGCH 06 min bore size is 9.6mm, you have discounted the tip protruding.
Nightmare like all tooling companies deciphering the tips to go with the tooling. Some of my Iscar for that type of tool are meant for a totally different tool, key is the 3 prongue front fixing and screw work off that.

Edited By Jon on 25/07/2018 11:55:26

Edited By Jon on 25/07/2018 11:57:14

Looks like youve wrongly done it in Resolution.
At this point will show and be able to alter decimal places, set to 3 on all axis and enter.

What you need to do is find through scrolling through R or D meaning Radius or Diameter.
Radius will read actual travel, Diameter will double that travel, set accordingly each axis will see SEL AXIS.
Swapping each axis will see a 0 or a 1 and enter job done.