Member postings for AdrianR

The scars on the nose seem to be at regular angles, I wonder if the threaded bit is a gland for hydraulics to increment a rotation. The angles look to be preset at 30, 45 and 60 degrees, could it be for sharpening/making countersinks?

Pete,

If you are making and not buying the hull, could you not scale it up a little to increase the displacement?

I assume displacement would go up with the cube.

Adrian

Peter,

Not sure where you are in the world but 60Kg is too low for Europe. See https://www.worlddata.info/average-bodyheight.php

For the UK male=86.7 female=72.7

Adrian

Hi Karl,

Welcome, I'm not so far from you in Spilsby.

That is one serious nibbler!

Adrian

Hi Derek,

I have a Model 60 with similar wear, and I have been trying to figure out how to fix it too. Recently there was another thread about a Hexacut 90 where someone showed pictures of milling the guides. I have not worked out how to mount the guides and frame on the mill so have not tried it yet.

I have been considering fabricating a new blade frame that at the top has a plate wider than the guides. Then on the plate create guides that work on the outside of the rails. For the guides, I am thinking of using small ball races.

My concern with this approach is the increase in the weight of the reciprocating parts.

I would be interested in how you fix yours.

Adrian

Hi Jez,

My Kenedy is in bits at the moment, but there are good pics of the dash pot connection on http://www.lathes.co.uk/taylor/page2.html

Joseph,

Great work, I looked at those data sheets a while back to learn how sensors worked, good to see an implementation.

Adrian

I have seen those sorts of wheels before but never thought about them till now. I have been watching EngelsCoachShop it's amazing how cartwheels are made. It just dawned on me that construction is so similar to a wooden cartwheel. The triangular sections are just a combined felloe and spoke. It could be that the hub is not cast around the spokes but the spokes are slotted into a hub, then a tire shrunk on to hold it all together.

Well I never, learn something new every day, just watched this,https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u6ADHf3nvIs shows them treated in salt baths.

Looks a lot simpler than what I read for the HSS hardening and tempering process.

The reason I was looking at modifying them is that I have inherited both my fathers and stepfathers drills. I have defiantly also inherited the packrat gene and can't bear to throw them away. A lot have worn sides near the tips, but nearer the shank they are fine. I don't have stub or spotting drills so thought it could be a good way to be trendy and upcycle them.

I always thought drills were made in two parts and welded together. It seems that would be easier than trying to do HSS heat treatment at one end of a drill.

Well, I checked out the Z-axis and found I had more play than I thought on the dovetail. The mill now feels 'better'.

Using the quill was a success too, 12.4mm cutter 200 RPM and 3.5mm depth, perfect flush screw heads.

Thanks for the advice.

Adrian

I don't understand why you kept the boiler pressure at 20PSI instead of opening the valve fully. If you had the valve fully open, would you not have been able to measure the pressure at the turbine and calculate the efficiency?

Hijacking my own thread, the last time I dealt with Young's modulus etc was 1982 at uni.

I am thinking of making a QCTP and holders. I understand hardening would reduce the wear and I could live with a little wear, but would unhardened be strong/rigid enough?

I have been wondering how much of a jobber drill is HSS. I am wondering if I could shorten some of my old drills to be like spotting drills or make countersinks.

I don't have Jason's experience but yesterday I took a stab at adjusting my Z gib.

I first tried using a dti mounted on the top of the head to the column about 3" up. Using some wooden blocks and a leaver lifted the head via the quill. This resulted in about 10-20thou DTI reading and a sloping noise as the oil was forced in and out of the dovetail. Definitely proved I had a loose dovetail.

I tightened the gib about 4-6 turns before the noise stopped. I then tried raising and lowering the head. I found it got tight about 3" from the top of the column. When lowering the head from the top I could feel I was driving the head down. Then it went through a short distance of sticking/jumping and finally ran free. I used a very fine diamond hone on the column to smooth out the machining roughness to match how it had worn lower down. This improved it a little, but not much.

I then tried a second approach. I mounted the DTI under the head and measured the change in height when the head/gib was locked. I knew from past experience the head moved up a lot when locked, but after the above adjustment, I only saw 0.5thou movement. I loosened the gib till I was getting about 1 - 1.5thou over the normal working heights. After this, I found I could raise and lower the head all the way to the top without tightness or any juddering.

I thought all automatic center punches were adjustable. My one can go from a flee peck to meteor crater by turning the end cap.

I have a bottle of Dykem blue, it sits on the shelf never used as I keep forgetting to get a small brush. Instead, I use cheap permanent markers (3 for £1) So if you want to use Dykem try and get one with a built-in brush.

A really cheap plastic digital vernier is also useful. Mine cost £3 from eBay, is 0.1mm resolution and lives on the bench. Great for quick checks e.g. is that bar 1/4" or 6mm and I don't have to worry about ruining it.

For dividers go for spring dividers, they have the adjustment screw and are much easier to set. Another useful tool is an Odd Leg Jenny and likewise, go for the spring version.

Unless you are a CAD wiz, an Oxford Helix maths drawing set.

I have not used Floetrol, but I have used a similar product from the same company for oil paints and it was superb. Having struggled with these new-fangled water-based paints I would defiantly give Floetrol a try.

I have had some success with using a synthetic brush, pre-wetting the brush with water and using a very fine spray of water on the surface prior to painting.

Apart from that, I take my glasses off and it all looks perfect.

Blimy they sure do have tough gliders where you fly if those are the countersinks for the skin rivets

Jason,

Thanks for the video, I actually searched your youtube to see if you had an example of countersinking. Being able to see and hear the machine defiantly makes a huge difference. It was watching your videos that finally made me choose the SX3.

The 12.4 looks much better, and of course, is not so obvious when you make it too deep. I was aiming for 14mm as that is what is on Howard Halls plans and I am trying to push myself to work accurately.

I guess using the quill instead of the Z feed, has the advantage that pulling the handle down is also pulling the head down too.