Member postings for AdrianR

I had exactly the same issue with my BH600G before I bought it. The short answer was a loose connection in the control box. After tightening all the screws on the contactors the motor started up normally.

First are you sure it is the motor, when applying power to the lathe, if all the safety switches are closed you get a clunk as the main contactor closes. No clunk then a safety switch is open. There is a small hum from the 24V transformer all the time.

If I remember right (ref pg 65 of Grizzly manual) the problem was the overload contactor FR had worked its way loose from KM1 (top left)

FR hangs under KM1 and is held in place by being screwed into T1, T2 and T3 on KM1.

In normal operation K3 (top right) closes, then for Fwd/Rev KM1 OR KM2 close. For testing, it is possible to push the centre of KM1 OR KM2 and start the motor.

The motor has connections U1, U2, V1 and V2. In the control box U1 = Neutral and on KM1 T1 = U2, T2 = V1 and T3 = V2

When running Fwd

U2 = Live

V1 = Neutral

V2 = Live

When running Rev, V1 and V2 are reversed.

U2 = Live

V1 = Live

V2 = Neutral

BTW It does not like starting from cold at a high spindle speed, releasing the belt tensioner lets the motor spin up to speed first.

Hope it helps

Adrian

I used to use Thunderbird and found it very good, but now I just use the web clients for Outlook and Gmail. That way I get access on any device, assuming I remember the password.

Hi Mike,

I have a BH600G (SN 0013) and so I could have more bench space I put it in the middle of my workshop. The guy I bought it from had it against a wall. The only reason you need to go round the back is to adjust the belt tension, but that could be done from the end with a fiddle.

The Warco manual is useless if you really want it I could scan you a copy. What is better is the Grizzly manual, PM me your email and I can send you a copy of that.

My stand did not have adjustable feet, I bought some but after mounting the lathe on the stand it was so wobbly I was scared it would topple over. I ended up bolting it to the floor instead.

For levelling, I considered putting shims between the lathe and stand but found it easier to put the shims under the stand.

The first mod you should make is to get a 6L milk bottle and cut it down to make a drip tray for the gearbox, as it does not have a bottom!

Adrian

Edited By AdrianR on 16/03/2022 14:27:23

Hi Andy,

As others have said, watch out for dampness, if you can paint the outside. If you decide to insulate put a plastic sheet on the warm/inside of the insulation. Insulating and draft proofing the door and roof mIght be the quickest wins but remember some ventilation too.

If you use a dehumidifier get a desiccant type as they will work at low temperatures.

To help keep thieves out, at least board over windows and strengthen the door. In my old workshop, I replaced all the hinge and hasp screws with bolts and used lock nuts on the inside.

Adrian

I don't know much about 3d printing but there are several pages on google about 3d printing with beeswax.

Another thought I had was if you can get a foundation sheet and some silicon moulding rubber you could make a mould and then just cast one-sided sheets. Then just use two back to back.

Adrian

After years of failed crops outside, last year was the first year I had a greenhouse (6' x 8' I had a bumper crop of saved heritage and Gardeners Delight seeds. All of them had a hard yellow centre that never ripened, sounds like your problem. They were horrible to eat but cooked up OK after freezing.

I read somewhere that it might be due to getting too hot. This year I am thinking of looking for a greenhouse variety, perhaps Alicante.

Any advice would be welcomed, I can't stand the lack of taste in supermarket tomatoes.

Depending on your materials you may be able to use UV setting glue.

Have you looked at hot melt adhesive film? Maybe there is one that will bond ABS and Rubber.

Maybe it would be worth designing a jig for assembly so you don't need the assembly time.

Perhaps if the front side of the hinge joint rubber was pressed tightly to the ABS with a knife-edge, it would create a seal. Then the CA could be applied from the rear.

I have an old Warco version of the Craftsman. I am tempted by a QCTP, I am sure that good quality ones have repeatable positioning. But for a smaller lathe, I have two QCTP of different types, they are terrible. The height is never repeatable and this has made me cautious about buying one for the Warco.

I have a set of indexed lathe tools which all have the same height so I only need one set of packing and swapping tools is easy. The only time I had a problem was when I tried super cheap inserts which had a different thickness.

I leave my 4 way tool post setup with a parting tool on one side and use the other for the indexed tool. I really like the T type parting tool with chip breaker groove. Not so easy to find, but very easy to use. Look on Chronos or Excentiric Eng.

An earlier post mentioned milling each tool holder. It sounds like a good idea and I will try it out. I have a mill, but as you don't, you could always mill them in the lathe. With a little thought, you could probably do it without a vertical slide too.

I don't have any, but I have thought tangential tools could be a good idea for easy swapping while keeping the height.

A side note: My lathe has an issue with the gap bed and rack. The alignment between the rack on the bed and gap piece is not good. There is a gap between the two racks that causes the saddle to jump forward about 0.5mm. This causes a mark when doing a power feed, and makes saddle position adjustment difficult.

Adrian

Maybe the correct answer to this question would be for why did he suggest that you need a slower speed?

I have two mills, an old Emco clone and a SX3, both shake violently when using a two flute, it's so bad I don't use two flute anymore. Three and four flute cutters are fine, and now I am only buying three flute cutters.

I also found that the SX3 Z Axis gib was far too loose, I think it was about five turns on the adjustment to get it to lock.

I used a wooden leaver to lift the head, and a dial gauge to measure the play between the head and column. It now has about the same play as the X and Y. It has improved the finish greatly, I must admit I have not tried a two flute cutter since adjusting it.

Adrian

Over the years I have noticed one thing about my wife's and my teacups. Her cup developed a scale that had to be scrubbed off, my cup didn't. I have always thought it was due to me taking sugar. Now thanks to a recent blood test I have given up sugar and now both our cups get scaled.

Just wondering has anyone else noticed this?

Well, I doubt I will go to W11, spending a couple of thousand pounds to get a new gaming rig is not on the cards.

Professionally I worked with Linux, and the only reason my home PC is windows is that I play games and inertia.

Now games and applications are far more likely to have a Linux version or Wine/Proton will allow a Windows program to run on Linux. So I expect at the end of W10 support I will switch to Linux.

I too have all 4, I tend to use the Z more than the quill. Yes you can read the quill, but can you control it accurately? I know I can't. Yes I have a fine feed on the quill, but there is so much play in the feed that when not under load it drops.

I don't regret getting the Z, and it is much cheaper to buy a 3 axis compared to replacing a 2 axis with a 3 axis.

Adrian

Cat5e and Cat6 are both rated for 1000Mbp. You will not gain any extra speed from Cat6 unless you have 10Gbps interfaces, which is very unlikely. Most domestic routers I have seen are only 100Mbs and I expect your internet connection is even lower than that.

Indoor/outdoor rating is not that important if the cable is sheltered, more important is that the cable is shielded, but then you need to have the right sockets that can ground the shielding.

I doubt you are getting close to the 100m limit or that your environment is particularly electrically noisy, so you probably only need the single foil wrapped type (FUTP), not the type where each pair is wrapped.

Have you thought of using HomePlug/PowerLine/TP-Link? A lot easier than drilling holes in walls.

Funny, I didn't get that from the video. The point I thought he was making was that both sides of the tool cut when using a 29-degree compound.

I am completely sold on T shaped blades with a hollow top. Similar to the ones Eccentric Engineering sell, although I have a SOBA 1/2" from Chronos. The swarf is folded slightly which makes it narrower than the slot so less chance of jams. No worries about grinding the top rake, and the tool is held at 0 degrees so no height issues.

+1 for an engine hoist to lift them, but you do need to invest in good slings and also you will need rachet straps.

Remember engine hoists can only lift the rated weight when the arm is at its shortest. This limits the height you can lift too. Also, remember you will need to consider the length of the chain hook and slings and ceiling height.

For moving them I suggest you use skates. I have two, each rated at 250KG that are about 50x30cm. They are only plywood with casters that I bought from Aldi. I could not move the engine hoist when my lathe was on it, but with the skates it was super easy.

Vic oh Vic you had to just go and mention the B acronym.
Yesterday I had 25C, blistering sun and a zephyr from the south. Today 16C and cloud and rain and wind from the north.

Assuming someone had it working at some point in time, could it be that either the belt has stretched/worn or is the wrong belt fitted?

Do you have any speed plate or table of speeds? you should be able to calculate the correct diameter.

Re the oil hole, have you tried putting oil in the hole to see if it comes out in the bearing? Might be a recess around the bearing to act as an oil reservoir.

Adrian