Member postings for AdrianR

I am pretty sure it is not Myford specific as it is in the Kraus & Namer technical doc I linked. Nothing wrong with the easy option as long as it is the correct one not a bodge.

Hope you get better soon

I am still very much a beginner and I have an old lathe which I tried to restore. I could only get so far without having to spend a fortune getting parts made and the bed reground. I could make a few things on it, but I quickly found the limitations of old small worn out lathe. I decided instead to invest in getting a newer larger lathe. I think you too should get an newer lathe. You will still be using hand tools, and earning how to use it all will defiantly keep you busy.

There is another aspect of ME which is tool making. There are all sorts of simple things to start with e.g. I have made; engineers clamps, tailstock die holder, cutting tool height gauge and lots of other little things. There are numerous stories of people making X then having to make Y and Z to make X.

My todo list is growing rapidly, I have years of projects and ideas, just as well as I have just retired.

Adrian

Be careful if you order one, Kraus & Namer part numbers are complicated as all the switches are modular. The one above would be CA10X-A401 CA10 = 20 A switch, X = Power failure release, A401 = Motor reversing switch.

On page 26 of the tech doc you can see the schematic of the switch and how it should switch in each position. Check over your switch with a multimeter to see if it works the same as that.

Adrian

Hmm, maybe the compound gear is Boxford then, which is good as I am thinking of selling it.

Went to Carrington steam rally today, spent far too much on metal and tools, did get some good deals. A couple new of end mills and new reamers for £1, each but the real result were; Moore & Wright metric/whitworth thread gauge RRP £50 for £8

And a new dovetail cuter for £8

I got these drills for £1 each at a steam rally, by the colour they look to be carbide. They are 4 facet and the angle is larger than a normal drill. Are these spot drills?

Hi John,

I have a Mk1 but I have never had the guts to remove the spring cover. The old adage "don't fix what ain't broke" and the thought of that spring laying in wait like a coiled viper put me off. If you have any details of how to adjust it I don't mind taking it apart, it is well over due for a spring clean, sorry I could just not resit that one.

Adrian

Hi Peter,

I agree with Stew, that is not a restore for the faint of heart. I have my late fathers ML2. The chuck end cap broke just like that. He cut the whole top section of the bearing housing off and hand made a brass 1/2 cap. Sounds great till you consider there is no way to adjust the spindle to bed alignment. I still have not tested the alignment on Dad's lathe.

The tailstock is meant to have two halves like that. My one has 3 screws in each half. Not sure if it is original. On my Drummond B, the segments have over lapping halving joints and only two screws. So each half holds the other half in place.

I would advise getting another lathe and keeping that as a one day project.

Ha, great minds, Gray found the same diagram while I was typing my reply

I had a quick google, it looks like some Harrison 300 lathe uses a 110V transformer to power all the switch gear. If so not connecting the transformer means it will never run.

**LINK**

If this is the same lathe as yours, the transformer should be connected to terminal block Z1 terminals 4 and 5.

The question will be why is the blue wire loose? has the wiring been bodged or was it just accidentally pulled out when the mains cable was removed.

Dont worry about the neutral. With 3 phase there are two ways to use it called star and delta. This link has a reasonable explanation **LINK**

Hi John,

Did you get it working?

I have reassembled that type of switch several times, very fiddly. Have you checked each contact is working when it should with a multimeter?

It looks like your switch is by Kraus & Naimer somewhere on the black lump should be a part number.

On page 58, Power Failure Release is what you need.

I also searched "kraus & naimer distributors uk" lots come up and they have a UK office too.

Adrian

Advantage of leaving the garage door in place and walling behind is no one knows it is a workshop. Not having a window gives you better security and more space.

Hi Pete,

Welcome, I found retirement the perfect tonic for an erratic pump, hope it is suitable for you too.

Adrian

Ahha, that is exactly what I have This site has a picture

12 years ago I helped my wife clear her step fathers workshops. Most had already been sold off, the bulk of the remainder was red rust thanks to a leaky roof and a break in. Heart breaking seeing the slip gauges over the floor in a rusty puddle. Now seeing that Sabel I realise that was the rusty mound in the corner. I did look at it and wanted it, but at the time did not have the space. Oh for a time machine.

I just moved some more things from my old house to here. I found that I have a brand new set of Halfords taps and dies. Havnt a clue where it came from, but along with the Sherwood STP I just bought they cut the threads almost as easy as screwing a bolt in.

I also discovered that my old place was 1 mile from Cromwell tools. It must be the last bastion of storemen. Dont get me wrong they were totally polite and helpful. Just I got that feeling that I was only allowed in if I did not touch anything.

I asked for a 500g tub of Rocol RTD. He did glance at the terminal but did not touch it. I could see the contempt in his eye for automated stock systems. Of he stalks into the depths of the racking, a while later he returns with a bottle of Rocol RTD oil. I stick to my guns, and say "no the one in a tub". Of he goes again, a bit longer this time. He returns empty handed. Well I am prepared for this, I have the power of the Internet and have already looked up what they sell. What about Trefolex I say, and of he goes again. Even longer this time, more muffled thuds and scrapes and he returns with Sherwood STP and says what about this? I decided tweaking the tail of sleeping tigers is a bad hobby and agreed, yes that is perfect. I even got a smile which rapidly turned to a scowl as he aproached the terminal to make the sale.

While digging trough more boxes I found 49t change wheel of similar dimensions that meshes fine. In the casting it has an embossed diamond with S&B. Could that be Smart & Brown?

I have a 127/100 combination gear that I am trying to identify what lathe it is for.

DP 18

PA 14.5

Shaft 5/8"

127t thickness 3/8"

100t thickness 7/16"

Overall thickness 13/16" ie same as 3/8" gears with 1/16" clearance.

Any one know what lathe would use this?

Or rig up the garden hose so it simulates heavy rain on the house. Then you will be safe in the shed, bad weather is always a good casual visitor deterrent.

I dont have a specific tapping guide, but I do have a selection of Eclipse tap holders. They have a centre hole in the top, and I have made a centre to go in the drill chuck. I have a spring loaded plunger centre on the todo list, but that might just get replaced by a length of bunge tied to the drill handle.

Hmm tapping compound, when I was at school we had a pot of tallow, and happily my father had a similar card board pot too. I have used lard in the past, but since my move all I have is neat oil.

I have seen people mention Trefolex and Rocal any other suggestions?

Regarding tapping drill size. For M6 I have two books, one says 5.6mm the other 5.3mm. I am tapping a 19mm deep hole so chose the 5.6mm to reduce the thread percentage and make tapping easier. For relatively deep holes what percentage thread would you use?