Member postings for AdrianR

The problem with using the screen as the primary PE is that it may be steel not copper. You need a considerably larger CSA for steel.

For safety both ends of the shield should be connected to PE to ensure it is connected incase of mechanical damage to the cable.

Adrian

Sigh, Now tooth brushes are so last year I have another job on the todo list.

I have spent a while working with an old mill and making do with a drill vice, home made clamps and angle plates, I would say get a good vice. I also found I wanted to hold things at angles. So I have bought an angled work table and digital angle gauge.

I had to decide between rotary table and DRO, I chose 3 axis DRO. What finally persuaded me to get a DRO was after using a £4 plastic digital vernier as an improvised X DRO. Even if I had not bought a new mill I would have got a DRO for the old mill.

Adrian

My go to company for everything electrical is TLC Direct, The prices seem reasonable for the cable **LINK**

They have 4 and 5 core so you can wire star or delta.

Re which end of the screen to connect, I would say use brass glands both ends which will earth both ends, but also connect the earth wire so you don't just rely on the screening. To ensure the screening is earthed you can also use earth tabs on the glands.

Adrian

Last August at the Lincolnshire Steam Rally I picked up some taps. I recently came across them again, and popped the M4 in my metric set. Yesterday I used it for the first time to tap holes for the DRO on my new mill. It puzzled me for while why the screw would not go in very far. Took me a while to notice the pitch on the tap!

Live and learn

Adrian

Is that variation when you are cutting or with a DTI?

If you put a DTI on the tool post and set it against your work, does it show the same variation each time you hit the stop?

Could it be you are varying the force you are using against the stop?

The stop could be flexing.

The slide could be twisting.

Adrian

I don't have a rotary table, but throwing an idea out there. Add a read switch to the table to trigger the count on one of these **LINK** and stick a magnet on the crank

Save having to count turns.

Maybe something like this Ebay

You can get similar from motor factors too

Adrian

Edited By AdrianR on 16/05/2020 16:51:28

Edited By AdrianR on 16/05/2020 16:52:15

FYI **LINK**

I would be a little concerned about the accuracy of a lead screw made on a machine that has already worn out its cross slide.

What an idiot I am, I have been looking at that doc for other things, never thought to read the bit about the bearings.

Although I am still wondering about the merits of oil or grease lube for bearings. Obviously they both work, but when would you choose one over the other. Thinking of wheel bearings, they are greased and then run for years unmaintained.

Adrian

Hi,

I am cleaning up my new SX3 and the X axis bearings nearest the handle has back to back thrust bearings in a tube about 50mm long. In the top is an oil nipple and the manual says to oil it.

The bearings have been packed with black grease, hopefully moly not dirt.

Should I do the same and grease the bearings before fitting, or just use oil?

Adrian

Hmm, I have a BH600, did not know about a thermal overload, useful to know.

A small hint, if you have a 6 pint, milk bottle, the bottom of it makes a really good oil catcher under the gearbox.

Adrian

Another happy ARC customer.

I buy from them not because they are the cheapest, or because they sell ultra quality items, but because I have confidence. Confidence that what I will receive will be good for the price and If i have a problem they will help.

ARC sells things that I would say are suitable for the majority of hobbyists, defiantly good enough for what I do.

Adrian

Now I have read something about sharpening files using acid and electrolysis. It was written by someone who used to do it at work. I thought it was an article in MEW but it could have been a forum post too.

Anyone else remember it?

Adrian

If you can get a NVR switch that can be released by an external switch ie a 5 pin NVR switch e.g. **LINK**

And you are using a centre off switch, It is possible to wire the NVR so that if the reversing switch is moved, the NVR will drop out.

Adrian

240C sounds very close to the baking temperature of bread, so I would guess it has been taken close to its limit quite often.

I assume there is a thermostat to control the pot temperature, maybe that is on the way out and allowed it to overheat.

Adrian

This place lists it **LINK**

Adrian

That switch from ARC probably would work but it is not just a case of saying 16A is enough. The 16A rating is for resistive loads. A motor is an inductive load, which gives a surge voltage when turning off. This means that switches for inductive loads have to open fast and wide to quench the spark as quick as possible.

If you look at ratings for switches they have different ratings depending on the load See this The single phase AC23A rating is probably the most applicable.

For example, my personal favourite the CA10, it is a 20A switch. For resistive loads the max single phase load of 4.6KW but for AC23A rating (Frequent switching of motors or other high inductive loads) the max single phase load is 2.5KW.

As a rule of thumb assuming the switch has an AC23A rating, de-rate by 50%. So 16A * 230V * 0.5 = 1.8KW

As Bayzle said, a mandrel handle is the real answer to easy threading, easy to make too. Motor Fwd/Rev is great, but it is the stopping at the right place is the difficult bit. All too easy to crash the tool into a shoulder.

I think there was a MEW article about restoring a Dewhurst switch, involved replacing the dewhurst with a modern one. Also there is this thread that tells you what to buy and how to wire it **LINK**

Adrian

You also have to remember about your chuck unscrewing with motor reverse.

Adrian

I would think if the stand is intended for a lathe of similar weight and size it should be fine. The only issue would be where the bolt holes are. Ie where they are meant to take the weight. If they are anything like the stand for my lathe they just have a flat metal plate at the top so it would not matter where the lathe feet where.

If I remember right, there is a mod for S7 for levelling blocks. If you are worried about where the S7 feet end up, you could make levelling blocks that are a bit longer/wider.

Adrian

A slightly off topic naive question. I just about know what an injector is.

Could you use an injector to feed a flash boiler? i.e. connect a coil of pipe between the inlet and out let of the injector, fill with water and heat the coil?

Adrian

Kraus & Naimer do CA10X pre configured as a reversing switch with power failure release. https://www.krausnaimer.com/fileadmin/user_upload/Kraus_u_Naimer/Pdfcat/KN100GB.pdf

I had a quick look and could not find them for sale, if you want one you may have to buy the switch and power failure module and assemble them. Probably worth giving K&N a call.

Adrian