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Member postings for Phil P

Here is a list of all the postings Phil P has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

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Thread: ME Forum
07/12/2011 20:42:25
Yes that is what I am finding as well.
 
If you drag the scroll bar on the RHS of the page it goes in a "jerky" motion, and each jerk corresponds to the adverts updating.
 
Phil
Thread: Remote display sources for DRO Chinese calipers
14/11/2011 23:20:46
Chronos do a range of one, two or three axis readouts.
 
ebay item 360401776603 is typical.
 
Phil
Thread: Reaming in the Lathe/Drilling M/C
08/11/2011 22:37:43
I always run the machine under power when reaming.
 
In the lathe I run at a fairly slow speed, and with the "machine" reamer located in the tailstock barrel, I push the complete tailstock along the lathe bed and pull it back again when the reamer has got to depth.
 
In the milling machine or pillar drill, I just use the reamer like a drill but run it much slower.
 
In both cases I put a dab of the old fashioned neat soluable oil on the reamer, not because it cuts any better you understand, I just like the smell of it.
 
There will be plenty of differing opinions about this, but my dad taught to me to use a drill to remove the bulk of the material, then a single point boring tool to bring the hole to reaming diameter but round and true again, then finally the reamer to finish off to final size.
Also never stop rotating the work or the reamer until it has been fully withdrawn, and dont rotate it backwards.
 
I get the impression you were talking about using hand reamers though, so you might be better using the tailstock centre as opposed to holding them in a possibly inaccurate chuck.
Trouble is you need three hands to do it that way. 
 
Phil
 

Edited By Phil P on 08/11/2011 22:41:16

Thread: screwcutting from a shoulder
29/10/2011 23:15:42
I must admit to having a bit of a smug snigger when I watched the video.
 
Now I have the Graham Meek single tooth dog clutch fitted, "panic moments" are a thing of the past, cutting threads up to shoulders is a breeze.
 
Just for reference I have clocked mine and it trips the feed and stops the cut within 0.005" every time.
 
Phil
Thread: Drawing Quality
24/10/2011 13:09:35
Gosh......Where to start ?
 
As a rule of thumb if I am making a hole and shaft combination of parts I generally make the part with hole first.
Forget using only drills and emery paper, they are for farmers who are repairing ploughs etc.
 
Make the hole either by drilling then reaming to final size, or by boring it on the lathe or milling machine.
Once you have the part with the finished hole you can then turn the part to the correct outside diameter so it has the type of fit you require.
It is usually much easier to make the shaft fit the hole rather than the other way round.
 
I will not go into detailed information about tolerances here, but that is what we are really talking about. Rarely do you see any tolerances on average model engineering drawings, usually the article writer will explain what type of fits you are trying to achieve in the text.
 
From your questions it sounds like you could do with reading up on some basic techniques to get you started.
Dont be put off, it will all become clear...... honest.
 
Phil
23/10/2011 14:30:08
That's the reason I NEVER work to other peoples drawings.
 
I am a mechanical design engineer by profession. So I either design the part myself or re-draw it myself before actually making anything.
 
That way if there are any errors on the actual working drawings, I have only myself to take outside and give a good kicking.
 
Phil
 
Thread: Which Myford do I buy??
08/10/2011 11:59:10
I am lucky in that I have a Myford S7B and a Harrison L5A along with a couple of small Pultra watch and clock makers lathes.
 
I inherited the Super 7 when my dad died, he bought it new in 1987 and it still looks like it left the factory yesterday.
Previously I used a well equipped ML7 for many years, and the difference is like chalk and cheese, the Super is a much nicer machine to use and has much better bearings etc.
These days the Myford is the "main" lathe, and the Harrison only gets used for the occasional bigger jobs.
 
It all really depends on the size and type of work you intend to do, some people will advise you to get a bigger lathe on the premise that it will cover all the sizes of work you do big or small.
But you will find the the bigger lathe does not have the same "feel" for doing small delicate work.
 
The Chinese import lathes might give you more lathe for your money in terms of size and specification, but from reading and talking to people about them, there "may" be some build quality issues.
A lot of these can be resolved I suppose if you want to rebuild and blueprint your new lathe once it arrives. However I have only heard good things about the Austrian imports.
 
So it all boils down to deciding what you are going to use it for, which will dictate the size you need, then buy the best quality your budget will allow.
Personally I would always look for something second hand that has been well looked after and comes with a good pedigree.
 
Just as an example, a friend of mine recently bought a Swiss Mikron lathe and a van load of accessories and tooling for £150, it doesn't happen every day but you never know.
 
Phil
Thread: Walnut shell blasting media
07/10/2011 13:06:12
Hi James
 
I work in the design department of a company that sells Walnut Shell blast media.
 
If you ring our after sales dept and ask if they can sell you a sample tub, it might work out cheaper than a whole bag if you have only a few parts to blast.
 
There is a PDF file with all the details of Walnut Shell here:-
http://www.guysonlib.co.uk/lib/consumables/guyson_walnut_shell_blast_media_datasheet.pdf
 
Regards
Phil
Thread: ML7 / Super 7 tailstock
01/10/2011 15:11:36
Hi Bob
 
I have done exactly what you are asking about.
 
I have a Super 7B with a standard tailstock for normal use, but also have an ML7 tailstock which is fitted with the hard to find Cowells capstan rack feed attachment.
 
This is used for when I need to cut small threads with a Coventry die head ( I hate using split dies)
 
Phil
 
 
Thread: Centring Spindle
29/09/2011 21:51:42
Les
You just beat me to it.
 
I would just add that it might be better to remove the bearing and set up from the bore in the casting itself.
I would personally forget the wiggler and stick with a finger type DTI gauge (if you have one)
 
Also make certain that you have "trammed" the mill, to be sure the head is square to the table.
 
Phil
Thread: Collet Chuck set.
27/09/2011 23:04:22
Can you confirm that you have inserted a screwed shank cutter into the collet ?
 
The idea is that the centre hole in the back end of the cutter bears against the male centre in the chuck. The grub screw is there to prevent the collet turning when you tighten it up, and the shoulders should go down past the grub screw.
 
Edge A should never touch the chuck body, all the end load is through the actual cutter and onto the male centre.
 
Have a google for "Clarkson Autolock Chuck" and you will find more info.
 
Phil
Thread: A Challenge - How Would You Machine This Part?
26/09/2011 12:55:11
That is absolutely disgusting and not very hygenic at all.
 
I really cannot believe some people and the things they do.
 
Do you not realise that having plantpots on your worktop is not a good idea.
 
Phil
Thread: Dividing Head help
07/09/2011 12:57:32
I use an Elliott universal dividing head and it will do pretty much anything I need.
 
The only reason I have this is because I couldn't find a decent 3½" Hoffman at the right price when I was looking for one.
My dad swore by the Hoffman, and I would think if you can find a good one it would be better quality than any of the imported stuff.
But its horses for courses, if you only intend to use it once a flood, then maybe a budget one will be just fine.
 
By the way I also use a Hoffman indexing rotary table, and its a super bit of kit.
 
Phil
Thread: Rust and how to remove it.
31/08/2011 21:21:39
Terry
 
Looking at the Arc Euro Trade website, it looks like it has gone up in price a bit since you bought yours.
It is now listed at £11.95 for the small size to make 5 litres, or £19.50 for the 10 litre size.
 
I might give it a try sometime myself when I have used up all my evapo-rust.
 
Phil
31/08/2011 07:14:07
Posted by russell on 31/08/2011 04:37:41:
I've just been trying a product called 'Evapo-Rust' - it is apparently a chelation process, non acidic, entirely safe. It claims to not remove any metal, only what is already oxidised.
 
It appears to be very effective, cleaning up a small setsquare, some pieces of machine knitting accessory 'linker', and also some meccano. It leaves a slightly dull surface apparently suitable for painting.
 
Its a US product, available there and Australia at least, not sure where else.
 
hope this helps.
 
russell

I posted about this product on 16/07/11

I have used this for removing rust from antique musical box combs.
 
 
You can buy it in the UK here.
 
 
Phil
 
 
 
 
 
Thread: M4 carbide tap
30/08/2011 19:30:49
Hi Otley
 
I am curious about your user name, are your from "Otley"
 
Phil
Thread: So, now i have removed the Clarkson chuck should i stick with it?
25/08/2011 13:04:59
I would be getting a set of plain 2MT collets for your standard end mills and slot drills.
You probably only need three ie 1/4" 3/8" and 1/2" (Or 6, 10 & 12mm if you have gone metric)
That would give you maximum daylight under the cutter for bigger jobs.
 
I agree that an ER chuck is also useful and can hold not just milling cutters but drills as well.
 
For rigidity and working space go for the cutters being up as near to the head bearings as possible though.
 
Phil

Edited By Phil P on 25/08/2011 13:06:58

Thread: Commercial projects???
23/08/2011 13:14:06
Toys & Prams
 
It means the same thing as when a child has had a tantrums and thrown its toys out of the pram to try and get its parents attention.
Sometimes we use the term "spat his dummy out" as well.
 
I have no idea how its use on this website should be interpreted, but the above should give you an idea of its general meaning.
 
Sorry I cannot help answer you question regarding "commercial projects" I am sure someone who knows will tell us all.
Thread: Small Gear Cutters
11/08/2011 13:17:46
John
 
A musical box worm wheel is a very oddball thing, it is more akin to a clock escape wheel, but with its teeth cut to match the helix angle of a very slender worm.
 
Phil
11/08/2011 08:59:26
John
 
Is that to be used as a fly cutter or an end mill.
 
 
I have been wondering about making something along similar lines to single point fly cut new worm wheels for musical boxes, but using the Mikron hobber instead of milling.
 
Phil
<< First < Prev 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 Next > Last >>
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