Member postings for paul rayner

Jason

I'm waiting of some reamers etc to progress, so I thought I would make a start on some studding for the main bearings.

A couple of stupid questions if I may

1) did you use washers? as it looks as though you have when you expand the picture but they look painted or is it just a shadow from the camera light

2) How did you tighten the nuts up without chewing up the paint????

3) did you locktite the studs in to a set depth

regards

Paul

Jason I'm not brave enough to do it that way on the mill with such small taps. I do however with bigger ones M6 +

as a matter of interest I thought I would "have a go" at removing that broken tap. I drilled through from the other side and to my surprise when the drill met the tap I measured it and the tap was only 3.5mm in the work. I then got a small punch? drift? one of them round bar things with a flat end on lightly tapped a few times each side and bugger me it came out! So I need not have made another bearing block

ah well it's all fun eh

regards

Paul

I will take it on board to go up 0.1 next time.

I called at the local suppliers on my travels today and picked up an Osbourn 1st tap and did the rest of the holes a treet.

Geoff. it was a blind hole but, I like you on small stuff hold it in my hand, but this is, to be honest, is where I think I went wrong, I used a small tap wrench instead of one of those pin chuck types.

lesson learned

regards

Paul

it is, I have no Ali in my scrap box. To be honest it's not something I use. besides it's expensive Last time I looked at the price of some, I nearly had a heart attack. There's a steel stock holder local to me and if you buy standard stock lengths it's dirt cheap so my efforts are all in steel.

Paul

this is a bit of a bugger-

I was tapping the first hole in the lower bearing housing, A brand new presto tap as well .

I blame Jason the fixings are too small. M10 are much more manageable.

If I remember rightly the horizontal drive has bronze or oilite? bearings & the MT shaft has 2 bearings in it. 1 at the bottom which is held in place with the cover & the one at the top is held in place with a split screwed washer (the type you put a screw in so it doesn't come loose I don't know what you call them) there are no shims in there. You have to put the bearings on the shaft first and then slide the whole thing into the head.

your old bearings should have numbers etched onto them so you can identify them like that if all else fails

regards

Paul

Hi all

worked a treat thanks guys.

I'm not very good at "sums" I've just read through the postings and I think my head is going to explode

thanks again.

regards

Paul

Bob check your in box, also have you joined the tom senior group on yahoo, I used to be on that and the is loads of info on there.

regards

Paul

You can get the cylinder out of 50mm bar, just don't put the hole through the middle like I did in the first one

regards

paul

75.06 will do for my needs

thank you for all your help, It was a head scratcher for me!

regards

Paul

Thanks Guys just the job, I will plot it out First job in the morning.

regards

Paul

Hi all

I'm wanting to drill 3 holes in a triangular fashion on my mill with the PCD function I've already set up the work piece with the quill in the centre, The centre of the holes are 65mm equally distant apart from each other. Question is how do I calculate the diameter of the circle needed? I could do it on paper with a compass etc but I want it more accurate than that. I've had a look at the machinery's manual but cannot seem to find anything.

thanks in advance for any help

regards

Paul

Hiya Ifoggy

yes it's a great book, I borrowed this from the listening library a while ago, not just about engineering though.

well worth a read

regards

Paul

peak4 beat me to it, the bedroom work shop is an excellent site, there is drawings for the universal head on there as well as the fingers. You could use the er collet system to hold the drills as I'm planning on doing.

regards

Paul

Iv'e never cut a cylinder from bar stock before, but seemingly "the process may look a bit daunting"

but "the process is quite simple" not for me!

he goes-

cut a hole

oh dear! port face won't be big enough

start again

better

port face big enough

Ok it's not perfect port face is 0.2mm too wide and if you look close iv'e nicked the inside of the bottom flange, but that will be covered any how. so on the whole to say I've never done this before i'm quite pleased with the results, I'm going to leave the holes for the steam chest till later when I decide weather to make the chest 0.2mm wider or not. the exhaust is drilled but not tapped yet, a bit of fettling, honing and jobs a good un.

cheers Jason

or a C spanner

nah you win by exactly 60 seconds

well you learn something new every day, I didn't know you could use them as a hammer as well. I just use mine as a G cramp!

Hello Ivan

Iv'e been following this and another post with some interest as I'm considering having a "dabble" myself.

with regards to Fusion 360 I know it's free for hobby users but for how long? Admittedly I have not contacted them but I just get the sneaky feeling it's just for 12 months?

Also you say that drawings are saved in the cloud. which I didn't know, does this mean you cannot save it elsewhere eg usb stick?

Is it possible to load it onto a computer not connected to the internet?

Iv'e been watching Paul McWhorter on the tube and i'm leaning towards Fusion 360 it seems doable to me

Hope you don't mind me asking

regards

Paul

Hiya Colin

the offset is about 1/2" centers the top bar is 7/8"

regards

Paul