Member postings for Ajohnw

With HSS I reckon on a max depth of cut of around the diameter of the cutter. Can't see why carbide should be any different really but have never used slot mills of that type.

Speed can be similar to what would be used in a lathe with the same type of tool and material being cut except its the tool that is rotating. Generally I run slower than suggested figures as I like my tool to stay sharp.

Feed in my case is by hand so I haven't a clue what it is in mm / min. I generally adjust that to get a decent finish and by looking at how it cuts. If a cutter is taking what for it is a deep cut it will bend somewhat on smaller sizes. Too much of that will spoil the finish. Much of that sort of thing depends on just how powerful a miller is.

John

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You could just grind an angle on the other end and have both styles available Brian. Each has it's advantage. The plain end remains at the same height when it's reground. The other with back rake doesn't. The rake may make the tool grab on some materials but can leave a better finish on some when used for say grooving. It also means that the tool will cut into the metal more easily than the plain end.

The problem people usually have with parting off tools is chatter and noise which causes them to ease off on the feed which will make things worse. Myford 7 users often have other reasons for that happening though and a rear parting tool helps as the cutting forces are reversed.

Should mention noise and slides being too loose too.

John

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Edited By John W1 on 18/11/2015 14:12:22

I have elongated the slots that the clamp passes through on this one but should make new arms - when I need too. The pivots on the clamp need to be larger too allowing more angular movement leaving more space for the nut or handle as per the other one.

They aren't difficult to make really. The fiddly parts are the various screws - home made slotted heads. It might be possible to modify bought high tensile ones. They only need to be threaded for a short length directly under the head. Grub screws would keep the width of the heads down.

You can see that the last thing I used them on was brass. They are ok on al and fc stainless too but that one takes a lot of pressure.

My fc stainless generally seems to be a ferritic grade. I just ask for free cutting and one lot wasn't so I'd guess that's why.

John

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Edited By John W1 on 18/11/2015 12:59:08

Edited By John W1 on 18/11/2015 13:03:25

Edited By John W1 on 18/11/2015 13:05:21

The only problem with that one is the knurls it's based on. It would be best to pick a size of good quality HSS knurls that can be bought easily with different patterns and degrees of coarseness. On the other hand when I have used a coarser diamond pattern I have often found it to be too sharp to hold comfortably.

The owner of the lathe made 2. Or maybe the owner before him made it. The other one is a different design. I'll post a shot shortly. The arms need to be longer on it. So far it's done what I want when needed.

John

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Nick -Older people generally used to run the taps for some time if they were away from home for a significant period. By older I mean those born well before WW II and much earlier. Drummed into me so I even do that with copper pipes - the lead has been replaced here.

Don't knock Hugh. He has came up with the best way of cooking a duck. People should try it. Brilliant.

One thing I know for sure, use by date is abused to encourage more sales and that has been demonstrated in many areas.

In certain super markets it's possible to buy meat that is still within it's use by date and has partly gone off. Since having that happen a couple of times we now don'y buy meat off them again under any circumstances. We have never had that problem with Liddl but have with a couple of well known names.

I wonder how many people have peeled a potato and noticed a slight green tinge. Advice for pregnant women used to be don't eat them. What goes on with potatoes now is disgusting. They lie around chilled.

My brother lived in a flat over an old style Asian shop for a while. When we visited I used to buy very large packets of herbs and spices that would last us for several years. Now my wife goes through the herb and spices shelves regularly and throws them away as soon as the date is up. We periodically now have to eat something or the other because it's getting near the use by date. My wife loves to have too much in stock like many do.

Then there are the best before dates .................................

John

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I've seen it used in situations where corrosion would be a serious problem but don't have any precise details about what it actually was other than it was slightly magnetic as they all are.

This is what the nickel institute has to say about it

John

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I have to bend the tittle and little. I did start making one of these when I bought my first miller but changed lathe and it came with this. It's easily the home made tool that gets the most use by a large margin.

John

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I would have thought a grade of ferritic stainless would be the best option for this sort of thing.

John

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You have a usable lathe with 1/4 of a turn of backlash and as some is always there best get used to it and later when you have learned to use it make a new nut and leadscrew yourself. This aspect is very unlikely to cause your finish problem. Loose slides can plus other aspects.

Sometimes it's not play in the nut that causes a lot of the backlash - it's the bearing that locates the lead screw. If that's the case you will see the parts round the dial moving backwards and forwards as you try winding in and winding out. On a lathe like the Kerry it's probably adjustable.

John

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Are you sure you mean 15 mm ? One complete turn of a slide dial doesn't usually move the slide that much. That's why I asked in terms of percentage of a turn or fractions eg 1/10, 10% etc.

The reason I asked is that sometimes people expect too much in terms of backlash. One turn of yours would move the slide by 0.1" or circa 2.5mm but best stick to inches if that's what you have. In real terms on a lead screw with that pitch and new parts might give you around 0.010in back lash maybe up to 0.015in measure on the scales.Lathes with far more than that are still usable.

The answer to cope with backlash is to always wind into a cut. That way the back lash is taken out. If for some reason you wind in too far wind out say 1/2 a turn or more and then wind in again to the correct setting. If the nut was well worn say 1/2 turn 0.050in backlash then wind out over a turn and then back in again. Even with that amount of play the lathe is still usable but most people would be thinking maybe it's time to change the nut. Problem though - the lead screw will be worn as well - if you do organise a tight nut some how it will be too tight in places.

There isn't much on the web concerning adjusting gib strips on lathes. Best done with the lead screw out or disconnected and the slide pushed by hand. What's wanted is very slight resistance to movement and no binding due to the oil film breaking down. People use all sorts of oil but some have changed to slideway oil and found it to be better - including me but your gearbox oil is probably suitable.

There is a bit here but a bit myford based as are other bits and pieces on the site which is now archived.

**LINK**

If you still don't get a decent finish it would be best to post some photo's including one of the tool you use.

John

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Edited By John W1 on 17/11/2015 18:09:14

It might be best to ask what degree this excessive back lash is in terms of % rotation ?

John

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They are used to cut worms to drive worm wheels or ordinary gears if the worm is angled to suit it's helix angle.

John

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Edited By John W1 on 17/11/2015 13:10:59

A more accurate fact - lead poisoning may have worsened their health.

**LINK**

I worked in a lead acid battery factory for some years. Regular blood tests to much lower limits than usually used. Sometimes people would prove positive. Not a problem if ingested, usually by eating sandwiches etc without washing hands. Much of leads bad press is really down to fumes and dust getting in the lungs as then there is a perpetual source of it that wont go away.

There was a serious problem with tin canned food. Pin holes in the tin coating but they have been coated with a plastic film as well for some time now.

There are still a number of old houses in the UK that still have lead water supply pipes. That has been a worry for some time.

John

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With none perishables it's often a load of junk. Spices and herbs for instance may loose some of their flavour but will have done by the time the sell by date is up anyway and will have also lost some on the way to that point of sale.

I suppose salt will be subjected to a certain amount of moisture ingress from the atmosphere so they probably established a use by date on the basis that the packet or what ever will be opened n times a day in a rain forest.

I will add for Michael that there are carefully controlled standards relating to  what food can be packed in.

John

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Edited By John W1 on 17/11/2015 11:45:31

The site Jason linked to is handled by Chronos Brian. You might not find the inserts for them on ebay - or you might. Payment can be made via paypal just like ebay.

£2 a piece is pretty good for insert but have to buy 10. but here we have to pay VAT. I believe that is usually included in ebay prices so you should get it refunded and wonder if you do.

Actually I just ordered a 16mm bar off the link that takes the same inserts. I had hoped to use the triangular ones I use for turning for boring as well but have the facing down holes problem with them. Insert price is something that should be considered carefully when buying holders - but the price difference wont cause me to switch to them for turning.

John

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Edited By John W1 on 17/11/2015 11:25:12

Edited By John W1 on 17/11/2015 11:29:43

You might find a drill set like this one useful on a lathe of your size Brian along with the boring bar at the top of the page that Jason linked to. The tips from the same source are well priced as well.

**LINK**

if nothing else the link lets you know that there are stub drills around. Much shorter than standard length. It's possible to turn the shanks down on drills if needed even using an HSS tool. Often people do that in the 3 jaw but for best accuracy on the hole they will produce it's better to use a 4 jaw and get them running true.

The ancient drill size for reaming is 1/64", circa 0.4mm less on the diameter but both less and a bit more can be used in practice. Maybe 1/2mm more if needed. Too close doesn't allow for slight drill run out that hopefully will be straightened by the reamer.

John

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Edited By John W1 on 17/11/2015 10:17:22

When I entered goto mount into google I had 1.5m hits and all I can see is details of goto mounts. Even one pointing out that they might be called go to mounts as well.

Now I have added more trash to the thread that doesn't have any relevance to the subject..

John

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Not sure but this page shows some copies of drawing from the patent but near the top is a "photo" of a cord passing over a pulley to operate the clutch. It's not clear but it looks like something like your part might be connected to the cord.

**LINK**

John

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Did you take a look at the build threads Jason posted links to or the ones on here - the initial poster is usually glad to receive a number of the comments they get. There are often some interesting areas of discussion relating to the work - how and why or correcting balls ups etc. These are likely to be use to anyone that builds the same or a similar thing.

Frankly I can't see the reason for this thread. We live in an imperfect world and it's very easy to make it less perfect by adopting ideas that are not based on what actually goes on in a typical build thread. Especially because it all seems to have been caused by some yo yo leaving with some glee having done something that was rather bizarre in the past anyway. He probably wasn't happy with the standard of work he achieved in it. Now has a new lathe and perhaps has found that it wont work when it's all put together. On the other hand he might just enjoy doing things like that. Or he may feel he is so good that he should go play with the big boys on the engine forum,

Tut Tut Jason - you didn't finish your traction engine build thread.

John

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I'll keep a link of that page Jason. The price of the tips for them isn't too bad either at £2 plus the usual each but they don't look like micro polished. Coated instead.

John

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