Member postings for mechman48

Och new fangled electronics, 'we're doomed I say; doomed.

George.

Try two part epoxy resin; key both surfaces first.

George.

Oh woe is me! got back to my beam engine again after some away time, as previously mentioned, on assembly of earlier parts I noticed tight spots appearing in parts when assembling. one was in the piston operation within the cylinder, I had to strip the piston out & check the bore as there seemed to be a tight spot in the centre of the cylinder ( ? ) don't ask! I ended up giving the cylinder a little extra hone in the middle area to see if that would improve matters, the piston seemed to move easier than before.

I reassembled the cylinder & valve chest assembly together & tried operation with compressed air, it seems to work pretty smoothly, the piston reaching both ends of the stroke when I operated the slide valve so I know that works ok, but when I assembled the eccentric conrod to the bell crank it would not operate through its full rotation. I checked & freed off the end of the conrod yoke where it was catching the bell crank by some judicial filing but still catching as though the conrod was too long & not allowing eccentric full rotation.

I chanced removing a couple of threads from the conrod to see if that would help eccentric go 'over centre' no chance ! finally looked at the crankshaft end; lo & behold .. a run out on one side if the crank. on stripping it out again I checked distance between webs, all as should be but closer inspection showed that the eccentric side of the crank the shaft was not 90* to the web... hmm? it boils down to prior making of the crankshaft the drilling for the 4mm diam portion was not vertical to the web, if you get my drift. Suspicion fell on to the culprit as being the bench drill not being as accurate as hoped ..bearing fit etc.so in essence drilling off the vertical, so in all it was giving me a run out of 0.024" on the right hand side of the crankshaft & locking up the eccentric side plates & over reaching the con rod stroke, Bollocks was my cry!

Needles to say I am now again at the remaking of the crankshaft / webs stage, this time I'll make the crank up as a single rod through the offset ( big end ) & the web end rather than as shown on the drawing as separate pieces; & I'll do the drilling on the mill.

Crank zeroed at 'low spot' ... NB. felt tip marked at top of crank...

Crank rotated 180*... .024" run out ... not good!

Ah well! .. Mea Culpa,... "Once more into the breach" is all I can say.

George.

Have you considered long / short term storage facility; shame to get rid of stuff that has been collected over years, maybe you could ask about discount on length of storage term,worth a try.

George.

Hi Geoff

Welcome,where about in Teesside are you based I'm based in Marton just south side of 'Boro'

George.

They matched up the Colour of my last car perfectly, I just took a copy of the Colour number from the label on the car door & they made up 2 rattle cans for me,I believe they still do it.

George.

Amazing what you find inside a lump of metal 'innit. I can recall a couple of times I've found a crankshaft inside two pieces of metal.. . Looking good Mal.

George.

Been there, done it, got the Tee shirt/s. there's another tool that should be included on that list.. A prick / centre punch... used by the prick that can never get the centre pop to mark out the intersection of two lines, always seem to end up being off set at any point of the compass enough to make it annoying & having to 'tap' it back, usually ending up the other way.

George.

Hi Mal

Any other updates on your howitzer build, been looking forward to seeing latest, did you manage to find a gearbox in that lump of metal? your work on the gears looks superb.

George.

Richard Marks; thanks for the info, will look see.

George.

A Lamborghini with a mechanical failure 20 min out of the dealers, says a lot for Lamborghini don't it!. Maybe it was either a Monday morning or a Friday afternoon job off the line. I was under the impression that a car of that class... & all new cars, were given a thorough PDI before they left the dealers showroom.

George.

I have a similar problem with the cross slide oiler on my WM250 VF. I've tried to drill it out & use an easy out... not so easy out !... the spring came out & now I am left with the shell & a ball bearing in the hole, fortunately it is kept in place by a neat sized neodymium magnet that fits the hole so I can keep the sh1t out. Does any one have the diam. for these oilers as I have some on my eBay 'save for later' wish list but would rather make sure of the correct size before buying possibly the wrong size.

George.

My WM250V-F lathe has 10 amp fuses in both headstock electrical fuse holders, my WM 16 mill manual doesn't show what the fuse rating is but I suspect it has 10 amp as well as per the Grizzly manual.

George.

Just had a look & I have 2... 1980 &01995. According to Amazon latest revision is 2008 @ £5.20. some reviewers have stated they have 2010 & 2020 version ??.

R Johns; if its of help ... scan of a chart ME tapping sizes

George.

Hi R Johns, I was apprenticed fitter/turner back in the 60's.Have you got a Zeus book, it has all the necessary tapping info plus other handy info in it. IIRC it was priced at 2/6d.

George.

I have a clone too a 'GemRed' of Sino origin of course, it serves me well with good battery longevity, I replaced the batteries back in Jan this year & it is still going strong. I made a set of angle gauges earlier this year using trigonometry & used mine to validate my calculations,glad to say I was within acceptable limits... 0.1*

George.

Same probs on my laptop; only happens with this site, not on any other site / forum. What is it with MTM ?

George.

What's a 6" rule... I have a calibrated tea stirring tool, It's 19 mm wide x 155 mm long with imperial & metric markings to tell you the height of liquid in your cup...

IIRC this website will only post jpeg pics; any pics I have posted I have had to convert / save as jpeg before I can place in my album.

George.

I have used the wedges to remove a chuck from my bench drill when changing from keyed to keyless chuck, they are awkward to get started but not difficult, I used a large 'G' clamp to push them together, they work efficiently, having checked on ArcEuro it seems that they no longer supply them, mores the pity as they were cheap enough, a couple of quid iirc, usual disclaimer applies.

George.