Member postings for mechman48

Paul

I second Dias Costa's face mill..RDG item ref 626 2MT 2" face mill. This is the one I have & use for most of the face milling I have done, & with the supplied carbide tips. As I don't have power feed on my WM 16 (2MT) I tend to look, listen & feel how the cutter is performing by hand feed, if it isn't shaking the machine to buggery & not squealing like a stuck pig, I carry on. I have had it cutting Aluminium, Brass, & CI with a d.o.c of 1mm (0.0397" if it floats your boat) quite succesfully as long as I am looking, listening & feeling what the machine is doing, & I alter the feed /speed accordingly. On black cold rolled MS & BMS I've cut quite happily with up to .5 / .6mm (.020" / .025".with chips flying off & 'HOT' (had a couple find their way down the front of my t shirt..'ouch' I carry on.

George

Ian

Boyes are a local general general dealers in my area (Teesside) which cater to all manner of requirements from socks & footwear, toiletries, stationary, toys, fishing tackle & DIY tools etc,etc. I don't believe they are related to B & Q. As for the jewellers drivers I have on more than one occasion lost tiny screws from grandaughters toys or the back of radios so I magnetised a set to hold on to small screws & the like for future use.

George

Wow! what a lot of post on demagnetizing a caliper; respect to all you electrickery wiz's; why not just use a demagnetizer bought from 'Boyes' DIY dept about 2" square with two slots, one to magnetize & one to demag', mine cost me about £4.99p IIRC. M/Mart sell a larger version approx 8" square with similar identified slots..not sure on price! (usual disclaimers ), I demagged a 6" rule with a couple of passes through one slot & magnetized a set of jewellers drivers through the other slot.. job done.. simples!

George

Rik /all

Have att. info for ref: Viscosity Classifications - Tribology-ABC . Look at table # 5 it gives the equivalent for ISO 46 - 68 = SAE 20.. which covers what we need hence why I put SAE 15 - 40 in for topping up, the equivalent in the gear oil range is shown as 75 - 80W so you could replace your oil with this on change out, Halfords (no connection) or similar shop generally have multi range gearbox oil,could be marked up as Hypoid / GTX 70 - 90W.. ? I'll probably go this route when I change mine.

Drain plugs:

Warco manual.. Lathe Gearbox Assembly page .. part # 11.

Lathe Apron Assembly page .. part # 27 looks to be the drain plug although this is described as 'screw' (usual excellent chinglish translation) check on your machine!

I'v looked up the Grizzly equivalent machine & as near as matters is the G0752.. pdf parts list page 84 .. gearbox..part # 814.. drain plug. It doesn't show where the apron drain plug is but logical deduction is that it would be underneath near the sight glass or low down on one of the ends of the apron casting.

PS, have just checked on mine & there is a SH screw underneath the autofeed (half nut ) lever which may well be the drain plug but looking at the Warco manual this is not identified other than showing as an unidentfied screw,with what looks like a ball bearing on top, nestled in between part #'s 28..'screw' & # 29 'Label'.. ? whatever the case it will be awkward to remove & refit. the alternative would be to remove the hex head sight glass(on mine) drain off from there & refill from the SH screw on the left side of the apron (3/4 way up casting) until clean oil comes out of the sight glass location,refit the glass & top up to 3/4 level. I can't see part # 27 'screw' unless it is flush & has been painted over when they have sprayed the casting (any other owners noted / resolved this point)..?

Cheers

George

Edited By mechman48 on 02/07/2013 11:01:54

Edited By mechman48 on 02/07/2013 11:04:55

Did a backlash check over on the rest of the changewheels as mentioned earlier & set the gap to a single paper sheet..3-4 thou' more improvement on the noise level, although still rattles somewhat,I am putting this down to the radial & axial 'slop' (not so much running clearances) on the ID of the gear bores & banjo shafts, as manufactured in china ,again, QC at point of manufacture.

Checked oil levels in gearbox & saddle; both were lower than what is recommended so refering back to 'Grizzly' equivalent machine manual..BF20L who suggest ISO 60 grade oil, checked on Google for SAE equiv' .. SAE 20, so bought a litre of Engine oil SAE 15 - 40 & topped both up. Will use for a couple of weeks then drain off & replace all with new SAE 15 - 40 as no idea what the manufacturers put in originally!

George.

Broke my plastic hammer the other day, the other end has a rubber head which is ok so no need to go looking for a new hammer, tried to get a replacement head locally but none of the right size so decided to make a new head. Didn't have any plastic other than some soft Nylon bar & Fibre glass bar, but did have a piece of copper bar I picked up from the scrappies some time back, having a small brass hammer & the usual ball pein & cross pein hammers decided to make a soft copper head replacement. Machining was quite easy with copper curls coming of nicely (use a tangential tool for most of my turning) just making sure that I cleared away swarf after each cut so it wouldn't wrap around the tool & chuck.

Repairs needed

Machined & threaded copper head:

Viola! refurbished hammer:

As we all know copper being soft wont damage any material & being heavy has the weight for 'gentle persuasion' around the shop.

George

Edited By mechman48 on 30/06/2013 11:38:23

Edited By mechman48 on 30/06/2013 11:49:17

Made a saddle stop for my WM250V-F from offcut ally' block, final assembly pic, probably modify it later..as one does !

George

Another mod I did on my 250V-F... the supplied chuck guard has only one small window which restricts viewing of the chuck to some extent.. for me... (As I'm a short a***e) or should I say my a***e is too close to the ground? , any way I cut out the top section & fitted a double, gapped, 2mm acetate panel in place, now I can see more of what's going on at chuck jaws, no doubt some will have removed the guard altogether.. personal choice! I considered this too but decided against it as it still catches cutting fluid instead of flinging it back at me, or on the floor, & I have a clear vinyl sheet at the back to stop any trailing up the wall, (you can just make it out in the background).

George.

Edited By mechman48 on 25/06/2013 12:56:51

PS: Chronos...10 sheets...

Rust Inhibiting Paper - 10 sheets (Ref: RH10)
	Protect your Tools!! - Rust inhibiting Paper - Large 24 x 36" Sheets - 10 sheets for £4.69 plus vat

Have you tried WD40 or similar release fluid?

George

John; Chronos have sheets (usual disclaimer) I bought 10 last year & still have loads left, as you can see they are BIG sheets.

Cheers

George.

Edited By mechman48 on 24/06/2013 22:07:18

Rick,

Your noise appears to be slack meshing of the changewheels, I had similar when I got mine. I spent some time over the weekend checking on mine & adjusted the backlash using the 'paper' method to achieve a closer .003" gap on all the changewheels & it has definately improved the noise level,bear in mind thjat the sheet metal changewheel guard will amplify any sound as it is virtually an 'empty steel box'.

I initially did as Jason described & started from the motor, belt off, no undue noise, belt on, nothing untoward from the spindle, preload in both cases seems to be ok, chuck spins a couple of revs before stopping itself when spun manually, set the backlash & ran the machine up through the slow speed range 50 - 1000 rpm & it is much quieter so I would remove that element of noise deduction.

If you go back to the original thread 'Warco family' you originated you will see a snapshot of the 'paper' backlash setup I did.I'm not saying that all this family of lathes are perfect,some will be better that others,( Monday a.m & Friday p.m. syndrome as we used to say about our car production line) & Jason's 280 sounds to be the bees knees. One point I did mention in the other thread I noted that there is some axial slop on the change wheels ..on mine, this will have the effect of the teeth not running parallel with each other for each wheel.so there will always be some noise from this direction, I meant to measure the difference in ID & OD but 'forgot' so will have to do that in the near future. If I can get my head round doing a similar video in the future I will post it on other 'Warco 250 &WM 16 family' thread, then we won't be looking at different threads & we Warco family geeks won't be jumping from one thread to 'tother.

BFN

George.

Just had a 80 mm 3 jaw chuck for my RT delivered from Chronos, ordered on line, no bother..! used them quite often over the past year & had no issues,same applies to Arc Euro & RDG (usual disclaimer for all). as with all these retailers all the stuff comes fromChina / India so there can be some distinct quality issues..but you gets what you pays for, considering there are no (or very few) UK manufacturers of this sort of stuff there's not much option!

George.

Made a long handled spindle drive for manual screwcutting, not having the need to do any large threads have not needed to have machine set up for single point threading, always been leary of machine cutting a thread at the best of times..although have done it years ago, must get back into it..

Made out of the odds 'n' sods box & a book binder handle

George

Rik / all

Fortunately I had bought an engine hoist to move my previous machine(Clarke C500 combi,before selling it) when converting my garage so managed to do most of it myself with the help of SWMBO.

Another point to look out for on your machine, the change wheels are noisy, make sure that the backlash is set up as there seems to be plenty of slop on my gears radially & axialy so I suspect there will be some large clearances between the gear bores ID & the banjo pins/ shafts OD..anyone had similar probs / resolution?

The way I've set up my backlash is to insert some folded paper (5 - 6 thou) in between the 40t spindle gear & Z2 gear as that seemed to be the worst,adjusted the banjo to nip the paper & tightened up, there was some improvement at that but had to leave off to attend to something else so will have to get back & check the other gear meshes later.

George

Edited By mechman48 on 19/06/2013 16:41:37

Edited By mechman48 on 19/06/2013 16:43:01

Rik'

Congrats' on getting your lathe, a couple of pics of your set up would be nice.

George

I'm sure it does; all that close up work etc, asking ourselves ..'is that a 3 or an 8'..or similar vein.

G

Neil,

I've made a couple of mini boring bars from old broken taps, centre drill, & picked up a couple of Carbide borers from CNC machines (centre cooling) from somewhere many moons ago..

.. broken tap & centre drill boring bars, the one in the holder is 1/4" carbide, the bottom right is also carbide.. tip dia 0.114". hopefully you can make them out..seem to have forgotton how to set macro on camera.(.it's there somewhere but couldn't find it on menu)?..  so don't dispair you can always make a boring bar out of something.

George

Edited By mechman48 on 16/06/2013 18:11:42

Looking at the Warco catalogue their power feed..item 3205.16, looks almost identical to Toolcos PF1 apart from the on/off switch on the Toolco item, so I don't see any reason why it shouldn't fit. The other difference is I was quoted £280 for the Warco item at the Harrogate exhib' as opposed to Toolco's, advertised at £240 on their website.. but toolco's won't be in stock until Aug'.

George

I have worn glasses since I was 11 (am now 65) due to myopia, I have worn vari-focals since they came on the market many moons ago & wear them for everyday use (100%). It took a while to get adjusted but I am now so used to them it is second nature to me. I have a spare pair on hand & both have transition lenses in them which is a boon when we get (very rare) sunny days. I have become so used to them that when I am reading or doing something mid range my head goes into 'auto mode ' & adjusts accordingly without me making any conscious movement.

I have a pair of bi-focal safety glasses that I use when I'm in my man cave & on either machines but these need renewing now as they are quite old & I can tell the difference clearly now. The disadvantage with these is that they are sighted for long distance & the 'D' bi-focal is for reading so not really suited for machine work (med' -close range, so on my toduitlist ) so when I look around I get two sight variation extremes. If I keep my vari focals on I tend to put a full face shield on or dig out a pair of over glasses that I have kept close at hand, also, like Andrew, I when I have need to examine some thing 'close up' I find I have to take my specs off for anything less than 12" away.

Regards

George