Member postings for mechman48

A couple of pics of door insulation...Panels are foil covered both sides

Entry door...

Some floor covering.. still need more, which would raise temp up another degree or two..& one of the oil rads..

Outside temp 1*C (Lunchtime..according to local area website).. inside temp.. 4/5* C

George.

Edited By mechman48 on 13/12/2014 12:21:22

I have a roll up panel door & I have used 25mm Celotex/similar panels to infill each panel with Duct tape covering the joints, plus have used a panel stuck to the entry door, all attached with ' No Nails' adhesive ( usual disclaimer ), certainly makes a difference to the temp, plus other Celotex panels behind the OSB boarding on the walls & space blanket in the roof area. Last nights temp was - 3* outside, inside the garage is + 6*... nicely above dew point, An hour with the 2 oil rads on - one at ea. end & it gets up to a comfy 14* - 15*C ( approx 58* - 60* F )... weather strip around the door frame & compressible strip on the bottom... sorted. Will check again later today as it's forecast to be cold all day.

George

Edited By mechman48 on 13/12/2014 10:47:28

Hi Martin

There's a lot to be said for the newer versions of the 250 /280 /290... plus a lot to be said against them from others who would rally for the Myford/Boxford.. but at the end of the day it's the individuals choice & bank balance. I can't complain about my 250V-F, It has done all I have given it 'straight out of the box' I have modified the saddle locking clamp only last week, still have to change the compound slide gib key to a brass one ( been on my toduit list for a while) changed the saddle & g/box oil initially, made three small engines, miscellaneous tooling, some small bits for family etc, all without any complaints from the machine.. so I'm well satisfied with it. Same applies to the WM16 Mill I have. Best thing to do is go to the distributor ( or someone near to you who has one) & have a play with their demo models & you'll soon 'feel' if it's right for you... or maybe the 280/290?

Happy hunting

George

Chris

Just remember... you can earn loads of brownie points... but it only takes one 'Oh sh!t' to lose the lot...!

George

Made another mini depth gauge using the 2.5 tig needle I found the other day... & noooooooo I aint making a smaller one!

Think that's enough for now...

George

I can only reiterate most of Franks queries; I have a Warco 250V-F & a Wm16 mill, bought new as a package from Harrogate exhibition in 2012, there were some initial problems which were soon sorted by Warco (thanks) and have found it to be more than adequate for what I want to do. Most of the Chinese machines do have inbuilt probs to start with but a lot of them have been resolved by way of feedback to the dealers & the others tend to be fixed reasonably easily at home I still have one or two to sort out... when I get round to it.. e.g. replace the compound slide gib key with a brass version as the original is just a mild steel piece which is not what you would term a proper fit, but it has served ok so far.

There are decent second hand machines around, Colchesters, Harrisons, Myfords (silly money!) South Bend (UK versions) Emco's etc but these tend to be hefty stuff ( & not necessarily in the best condition/accuracy ) so, as said, what is your workspace etc. etc. as for tooling get what you need to start with & build up from there bit at a time, there are bargains to be had at car boots if you look carefully.

You've got to bear in mind that these days most suppliers get their stock from China anyway with not a great deal 'made in the UK', you've only got to look at the proliferation of cars,(Nissan, Mitsubishi, Kia, Dacia, Subaru, Toyota etc, TV's ( Sony, LG, Panasonic etc.   & other electrical goods that are 'Made in China' / Korea / Japan' Spain... & now India is rising to the fore so quality can & will differ, so if you're looking for 'good quality' you're looking at Presto, Buck & Hickman, Starret (both USA) Guhring (German), Mitutoyo (Japanese!) to name but a few, but expensive in comparison, at the end of the day you meet up with the old clichés ... 'you pays your money', or, 'you get what you pay for'...

Happy hunting & just enjoy what you decide to get.

George

Edited By mechman48 on 04/12/2014 18:26:13

My centre punches...

Tend to use auto punch as stated or the slim pricking punch underneath it.. if on black steel then will revert to short stubby 1/4" underneath that... the large one hasn't seen a hammer in years.. but it's there if I need it. As for use I hold it at an angle & feel for the tip to 'drop' into the crossed lines, raise it vertical, then press 'till it clicks or a light tap with a 8 oz. hammer if it's the prick punch.

George.

Edited By mechman48 on 03/12/2014 13:02:12

Edited By mechman48 on 03/12/2014 13:03:41

Ditto automatic centre punch... have it set for the lightest impact setting then check with loupe, adjust accordingly & follow up with heaviest setting ... check again, then drill with #1 centre drill ...

George.

Daveb

Didn't have any 1/8" silver steel but have found a piece of 2.5mm tungsten (old TIG needle) so may make another one with that...

George

Made myself a mini depth gauge with a rod dia of 3.2mm as some drilled holes are smaller than the vernier depth gauge blade width...

Another useful bit of kit.

George.

That's only the lathe corner guys; the rest of the walls have accumulated various boxes, shelves, stuff hung on screws/nails etc. I have certainly not lost 'thatmightcomeinhandyoneday gene... just ask SWMBO who often says 'what do you want that for' ?, I am still in the 'accumulation' phase of retirement,... ask me again this time next year where I'm sure all available space will be accounted for.

What I am trying to avoid is the inevitable conflict with the workshop elves who are omnipresent at all times when I / we put something down & I/we end up with 'now where did I put that 'flippin' vernier... oh yeh it's in my top pocket' ... is that a sign of 'brain fade' ?... methinks so .

George

Try rerouting you tubing to have a vertical drop as close to your table as possible as it seems that you have a fair near horizontal run to the back of your column, in one shot it appears that the left hand tube seems to have a slight rise before it drops over the back of the column... making it higher than the table... negates the syphon effect... leave the drain tube ends above the level of the tank otherwise you're trying to overcome atmospheric pressure on top of the suds level, so without any added pressure / decent syphon drop your suds stay where they are... ... you can only give it a try ... don't forget to add a filter of sorts before suds enters the tank  (  apologies for granny & eggs implication )

George

Edited By mechman48 on 28/11/2014 11:33:59

Welcome Chris

Pleased to see you enjoy the mag; when SWMBO came to Harrogate exhibit' with me in 2012 looking for a lathe she said why don't I get a mill as well.... ... after picking myself off the floor... needless to say the package was duly bought, good deal at the mo' so I can only thank my lucky stars for her moment of madness... still waiting for the come back tho'... ... Oh cynical me! 'nuff said, don't tempt fate... enjoy

George

Nice set up for your holders John, As with most of us I used what was to hand & what felt easiest for me, but it's worth bearing in mind when I consider a remodel of my garage possibly next year.

George

Watch out! I wouldn't of thought the 'elf n safety' bods will allow that 'weapon' in a public place, never mind what the director says...has a risk assessment taken place before that is worn... ...?

George

Yep! it's been done before... used a couple of shelf brackets for mine off the back shelves...

Sorry to spoil your day... ... have a nice one ....

George

Seems a lot of aggro for what seems to be a simple 1/2" BSW bolt, the leaf spring is there to take up any slack on the blade so should keep the tension of the top blade against the bottom blade to effect the cutting action. Modern versions have a simple coil spring in the same location for the same purpose, & as been said you hold the top blade against the bottom as you cut.

George

Graham

Sent pm with request & payment via PayPal yesterday... no panic in your own time, main thing is get yourself right first, would appreciate acknowledgement when you have the time.

Thanks

George

The coloured packing's look like the backs of diamond hones, course, medium, fine, that I have, I don't see any wedge shapes, not that wedges would be very effective anyway.

George

According to my 250 Warco manual the belt is designated as... part # 19... 7M730... Gates 730.. Warco ref # 321101

Hope this is of use to you.

George