Member postings for mechman48

Got my piece of polished Granite from kitchen worktop supplier... free gratis.

George.

Hi Robin

This applies to all of us not just Myfordians; As you say to have a decent readout you have to 'pays your money' i.e. Mitutoyo, all these digi callipers are made for the mass market in PRC & sold under many brand names inc. Starret, M&W etc. I have a 8" Mitutoyo digi vernier, & 0 - 25 mic that I use as masters, I use a 3" & 4" digi verniers for general use ( from Machine-DRO UK, usual disc. ) again made in PRC, but I also have a couple of 'older' analogue mic's inc. one I bought when I served my apprenticeship so its over 45 yrs old, & still accurate, some of which I use to double check a final reading on stuff I am doing ( not a lot lately ) .

What I find is that for consistent readings I leave my mic's / verniers to 'acclimatise' to my workshop temperature once I have had the heaters on for about an hr, or I have a vernier in my top pocket where it reaches body temp so as I use it it maintains repeatability, & yes I still check 'zero' occasionally. The trouble with batteries is that when cold they tend to have a voltage drop until warmed up so keep them at a constant temp if you can.

George.

Fine by me too, as long as we know & Graham is ok.

George

Not had any contact / response to date... hope Graham is ok?

George

I bought a set of metric ER 25 from CTC tools (usual disc.) plus a MT2 & MT 4 chucks; I use the MT2 in my mill, the MT4 in the headstock of my WM250 with a draw bar fixing. I haven't got a collet chuck per se as am of the opinion that its extra overhang plus any inherent run out would compound itself so having the MT fixing would keep it closer to the headstock & minimise any overhang. I have got a set of imperial ER 25 collets (set of 5  ) for a Christmas prezzie to cover some smaller imperial sizes that the metric set won't cover...  1/8" - 1/2" .. I haven't had any DTI on it lately but will do a double check & post figures, just my preference at the mo' .

George

Edited By mechman48 on 10/01/2015 11:11:19

.... ho hum back to back to 'KISS' mod. eng..  I bow to your greater knowledge...

George

Edited By mechman48 on 10/01/2015 10:20:34

Concur with all the others; get a couple of HSS bits to start with, a tailstock drill chuck, A rotating centre, & when you can afford it get a tangential tool holder, (see Eccentric Engineering.. usual disc' ) I use mine for 90% ( inc. Brass & Ally' ) of what I do as it has a HSS bit supplied with it & only needs one angle ground (top).. with the supplied guide.. easy. I do have insert tip tools but these tend to languish in the tool chest, as for lubrication WD is vg for Aluminium, Brass doesn't need any, & MS can be machined dry to a certain degree but use neat cutting oil ( any light oil will do but suds is preferable if you're doing large / long items.  )  Happy machining.

Re 'Old buggers'  SWMBO often likens me to a certain Victor Meldrew... I wonder why?   .  

George.

Edited By mechman48 on 08/01/2015 20:36:20

I have a digital height gauge supplied by Machine-DRO which I set zero when scribe blade is set on a polished marble plate, after all is cleaned, press 'zero' button on readout & set to req'd height...voila!

**LINK**

George

Well done that man pgk ... always pleasing when you achieve something.

George

Have set up a 12v window wiper motor to power my X feed on my WM16... does what I want it to for the moment, no fast traverse switch as such I just wind the pot up to full speed... pics in my album...

George.

Not exactly 'What did you do today' but in the same vein, 'What I have finished lately' 13 amp oscillating engine, from plans provided by...

**LINK**

Only small but requires approx 45 psi to operate it... qualified by designer.

The link also provides access to plans for those looking for something different.

George.

The drill chuck supplied with the mill is the one to use... you need to check whether the draw bar thread in the end of the arbor is either 3/8" imp or 10mm... use the drawbar to secure the drill chuck into the spindle MT.. my chuck came with 3/8" imp thread, fortunately Warco supplied both versions of the draw bar, I have since bought a 0.5 - 8mm chuck & a J2 /MT2 arbor with a 10mm thread specifically to use on my mill therefore keeping the metric drawbar in situ & all my collet chucks are metric thread anyway.

Don't get into the idea that a chuck slipping on the taper is a safety factor per se.. albeit tapers will slip ( hence the safety idea ) they are primarily for driving through friction & any slippage indicates that the taper needs to be firmly pressed against its mating partner, or you are putting too much down force onto the drill/cutter.. not good... again this will force the tapers to match, but if they are not spotlessly clean & no burrs etc.... or the tapers have some damage on the faces....?. If drilling you should be following the drills cutting action through the material with only firm pressure, the drill will let you know if it's drilling correctly, or when it's not, providing you have the correct speed for the size drill.. & plenty of lubrication. Any slippage on tapers will invariably damage the mating tapers, don't ask how I know.. I am presently building up a set of small drills for Brass /  Aluminium where I take the cutting edge off with a diamond hone.. stops the 'grabbing' effect...  pls excuse the granny & eggs implication.. unintentional .. promise.. just wish to help... I'm sure others will offer other advice too... looking forward to pics of rear t/post.

George.

Edited By mechman48 on 07/01/2015 11:08:46

Look forward to pics of your rear tool post.. intrigued about ' it's a heavy piece of engineering'... would like to see it set up..

Happy new year to all forum members.

George.

Odd ?.. Why give up after you state that it gave good results, just because someone says this is a no-no doesn't mean you have to stop what works for you, I used to be the opposite, now I part off under power feed when I need to & am quite happy & confident to do so... Ref. my post above..

George.

Edited By mechman48 on 04/01/2015 09:39:13

As for parting on my WM 250V-F , I use both a front mounted insert type (RDG.. usual disc. ) plus a HSS home ground tool, on Ally, Brass & BMS ( up to approx' 20mm ) anything larger in BMS I have used my home made rear parting system. Larger dia' in Ally, Brass I can use the front mounted inserted tip holder (2mm wide tip ).

Some 2mm x 25mm dia. large BMS washers trialled when I finished constructing my rear tool post system...

This shows I have used a front mounting holder upside down as it proved that the original design meant that there was too much flex in the original blade .. too much unsupported overhang... creating a concave/convex surface.. this is much more rigid..

The front system link is..

**LINK**

As mentioned, Make sure that everything is rigid, compound slide snugged up, saddle locked, tool square to the X axis, tip dead on centre height, plenty of lubricant ( flood or brush fed ) &, once started keep the infeed going, I parted the above washers using approx' 260 rpm with the auto crossfeed at the machines lowest setting, have just recently ( yesterday ) parted off 16mm Brass @ approx 600rpm, lowest set auto feed, with the RDG tool system.

What was once a job filled with dread now is now confidently done.

George.

David, the UK supplier is as follows, I believe it is his sister, this is where I got my tangential tool from ...

T Sneesby
4 Carrwood Gardens
Galgate
LA20PB
Lancs

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What's happened to this thread.. very narrow columns /page width...?

Niiiiice! ... do you have a grinder to keep them in good shape?

George

...Just off out with 2 of the wife's (wife 3 in Aberdeen) so wont be in any fit state to get on line latter....

Going out with 2 wives with 3rd one waiting in Aberdeen are you sure you're in a fit state 'BEFORE' you go out... or do you love wedding cake .. LOL ... have a good night, all the best.

George

On the question of soldering; I have a small hearth made from 4 firebricks ( old coal fire hearth back slabs ) set up in a frame & have used it to solder a very small item ok, but as I understand it is better to have a hearth made from white insulation / vermiculite bricks. I have looked on 'flea bay & it generally points to refractory linings & they tend to be a 'minimum order of'... have also looked on Cup Alloys site & they provide a kit for £39.60... a bit pricy for 3 slabs & a bit of Kaowool ? blanket, have also kept eye open for someone who's thrown out a gas fire... to use the radiants as a hearth... would the radiants used in a wood burner be of the same material...does anyone have spare bricks available for the postage cost... anyone in the Teesside area so I can collect...would appreciate pm.

TIA

George