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Member postings for Bogstandard

Here is a list of all the postings Bogstandard has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

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Thread: Has anyone experience of building both the engine and paddle steamer?
06/10/2010 08:05:35
I did do a couple of horizontal conversions on the engines I used to make, to turn them into paddle engines. By the time they were geared down, on 5 psi, you couldn't stop them by using your fingers on the shafts.
 

 
A rather easy engine to make and convert.
It took about half an hour to convert between the two, so one engine could do both jobs by swapping a few bits over.

Bogs.

Edited By Bogstandard on 06/10/2010 08:06:25

Edited By Bogstandard on 06/10/2010 08:09:33

Thread: Introduction and some beginners questions
03/10/2010 22:33:47
Derek,
 
The first thing you must heed is the advice given by Jason with regards to materials.
 
Whatever Jan calls for on his plans, use it. On an engine like a flame licker (IMHO, one of the most difficult small engines to get running) the interaction of the materials with each other is critical.
 
The next most important thing is the running clearances, they should be only just loose enough to run, but still be able to form a decent seal, plus friction really does have to be kept to a minimum. I spent hours of hand lapping the piston and cylinders together to get things just right. That pays off in not having to use any lubricants and thus friction and later gumming up of the works. Flame lickers invariably only just have enough power to turn themselves over whilst running, so friction can be your worst enemy.
 
After it is built, and you are happy with everything, getting it to run can be a nightmare for someone without experience of this type of engine. Just using old meths as a fuel can prevent it running, having the burner in the wrong position is the most often cause of refusing to run, being 1/4mm out of position can mean it not running, as is not having the cylinder at the correct temperature. Except for the duff meths, the rest is purely by trial and error. If you are lucky, it will start almost straight away, but there are people who have made these engines exactly to plan, and have never succeeded in getting them to run.
 
This is a twin cylinder version I made by using two of Jan's designed single cylinders, made as a handed pair.
 
 
 
Bogs
Thread: DRO
02/10/2010 21:43:34
IMHO, the main advantage of a basic DRO is so that backlash on your machines can be totally ignored. In fact, I don't even look at dials any more. Plus the speed at which repeatable sizes can be achieved. The rest of the features come in handy every so often, PCD drilling, drilling along an angled lines etc.
 
Having 4 axis on the lathe and 3 + 1 on the mill allows me not only to machine to exact size, but do it time after time. I used to make up to 100 fine tolerance parts, all to within 0.0002", At those sorts of tolerances, even ambient temperature has to be taken into account, so they were all produced, hopefully within a couple of hours, just so that fluctuating workshop temps didn't cause too much of a problem. Having to do that sort of thing manually would have taken me most of the day
 
They have allowed me to take basic workshop machines, and produce items that would normally have to be made with hi spec toolroom equipment, or the very slow process of cutting down to size manually.
 
I am not saying they should replace being able to manually machine, because I do that a lot as well, but as an aid to machining. It wsn't too long ago that mills were a major luxury in a small machine shop, now they are being classed as a neccesity. The same will be for DRO's on machines.
But I can honestly say that since starting to use the basic scale systems about 6 or 7 years ago, and now the Sino units from here DRO's , have given me everything I need to assist me in accurate machining and faster than I could ever do without the use of jigs and fixtures,.
 
This is not a tool gloat, but a natural progression for myself, to produce the items I need, to the tolerances I require, much faster than I could ever have done manually.
 
 
Bogs
 

 
Thread: Small Miller
02/10/2010 20:49:32
Andy,
 
The reason I gave you the info is because on a lot of sites I visit, the people usually investing in machinery only ever count the cost of the machine, never the tooling to be able to use it correctly. At least you have a good start in that direction.
 
A couple of years ago, I completely rebuilt my shop to turn it into a shop to make custom, high precision parts and small quantity production items. the cost of the machines was about 7 grand, the tooling cost at least the same again.
Unfortunately personal health problems hit it all that on the head, but at least I have a workshop where I can machine almost anything. So it shows just how much tooling can cost, and there was a lot more I could have bought.
 
A lot of the words I say on sites isn't about how to do things. I wait until almost everyone has had their say about the subject, then I will try to come in with some down to earth answers or questions that weren't mentioned, maybe not what people want to read, but issues that must be confronted.
 
I don't do it for spite or elitism, it is to do with the way I have always been trained. If you can, look at every possible angle before proceeding, doing it that way, fewer mistakes occur. Half an hours pre planning, then hopefully, a five minute machining job.
 
Bogs
01/10/2010 23:17:11
One thing you must remember when working to a budget, you MUST allow for tooling.
 
A half decent vice, cutter holder set and cutters will most probably swallow up between £150 to £200. So at least that amount has to be added.
 
Skimp on the first two by buying cheap tat, and you won't get the best out of the machine you are about to buy.
 
Unlike a lathe, where a few HSS cutting tools will keep you happy for ages, when it comes to a milling machine, the list is almost endless, just for basic necessary tooling.
 
The first bits I have mentioned, but to make life a little easier, a set of say 1/8" (or 3mm) parallels, a simple edge finder, a set of table clamps (for those jobs that won't fit into the vice) and maybe a cheap set of flycutters are the basic essentials to keep you going for any length of time, until you can afford to buy more complicated and expensive tooling.
 
So really, you are looking at around £300 over and above the cost of the machine.
 
You could save yourself a bit of money by making the belt drive yourself, there are a few designs and builds which have already been shown on other sites.
 
So I would suggest you price up everything first and maybe wait another few months until you can afford to get it all at the same time.
 
If you shop about, and can call in personally, sometimes you can get good discounts on tooling if you buy it with the machine. It all helps to keep costs down.
 
Bogs
 
 
Thread: Slitting Saws
30/09/2010 11:21:03
Quite right Kwil, if you look at the last pic, you can see them.
 
That is why you have to make sure you don't feed too fast when used on something like a mill.
 
I'm not talking about super slow feeds, it did that cut in about 15 to 20 seconds, plenty fast enough for most people.
 
 
Bogs
30/09/2010 03:28:57
Just to add a litle to the discussion
 
 
 
Bogs
Thread: lacquer for polished metal
29/09/2010 00:34:00
Another thing that I have found is that if you buff finish your parts using a slightly waxy soap, then clean the residue off with Mr Sheen (household polish), it will stay with a full lustre for about a year, then another polish over with Mr Sheen then gets it back up like new.
 
That is the system I now use for my little engines. It seems to work on all metals.
What you are trying to do is to stop nasties getting under the coat and attacking the surface oxides.
In fact, with aluminium, the oxides start to form as soon as it's new cut face is exposed to air, so the quicker you can protect it, the longer it will last.
 
I have just taken a picture of a finger engine that was given the Mr Sheen treatment about 3 years ago, when the engine was made, and hasn't been 'polished' since. It has been handled and played with by almost every person and their dog who has been in my house since that time.
OK, it might need a bit of love and attention now, but as you can see, the protective coat has really done it's job and with another quick wipe over. it will be back like new.
 

 
Bogs
 
Thread: Fly Cutting
28/09/2010 23:52:09
Ady,
 
The only reason I compared the two is because a lot of people have trouble with them both, not by the way the two systems work.
 
Whenever I have visitors to my shop, they always invariably turn to discussing small diameter fly cutting.
I usually have no trouble cutting up to a 6" sweep. Over that, vibration usually starts to rear it's ugly head, so a slowdown of feed is normally called for. But that is only due to the flycutter flimsy design, with a tool sticking out of the side at an angle..
 
So with no special setting up, I just wack the cutter into the spindle, jaw up a lump of scrap and show just how easy it really is. In fact the faster you go, usually, the less vibrations you get.
They usually go away totally disbelieving what they have just seen, but they do realise that what I did was correct and safe, and usually follow my methods themselves.
 
I really need to get a vid done to dispel all these black art notions and myths about fly cutting. It seems people think I am telling them porkies.
 
Grunt, grunt!
 
Bogs

Edited By Bogstandard on 28/09/2010 23:54:51

28/09/2010 20:33:42
This afternoon I was flycutting an ali block
 
Using the cutter described in DavoJ's post above, I was running at 1200 RPM and removing 0.100" (2.5mm) at a time, and still getting a surface finish that was good enough to not need smoothing off, in fact it was almost mirror like. I would turn that down to about 600 RPM and a cut of 0.050" when using softish steels.
 
I do have a very rigid mill, and on the smaller less rigid ones, you will have to make adjustments to suit.
 
There are too many myths surrounding fly cutting, tiny cuts, very slow feeds etc.
 
If you have a good razor sharp round nosed tool, your machine should tell you what your limits are.
It is very similar to parting off on the lathe, it is just another machining operation with no black arts involved. Just the right tool for the job, and knowing how to use it correctly.
 
That comes by looking at what is happening on your machining table, as no two people do things exactly the same way, and no two machines will cut the same.
 
All we can do is show what works for us, and hopefully you can pick up some tips to find your own solutions.
 
 
Bogs
Thread: lacquer for polished metal
28/09/2010 04:49:22
Patrick,
 
I suspect that might be your problem with other products. You are using too thick a coat by putting it on with a brush. The coating needs to go on as fine as possible. If from a spray can, just a very fine dusting
 
I used to use a lot of the Humbrol range on my boat models, satincote etc. But I used to thin then down to water consistency if I was applying by brush or airbrush.
 
 
Bogs
27/09/2010 22:13:37
Patrick,
 
About four years ago, I prepared half a dozen polished samples of brass, to try to establish what would be the best product for protecting the shine on my models.
 
I then gave them the coatings, from both spray cans and paint on products.
 
These were left in an open box on the top shelf of my shop, and after a year, all showed various tarnishes or breakdown of the coating, all except one.
It still gets the odd check now and again, and still hasn't shown any deterioration, except for a few scratch marks where it has been kicked about a bit.
 
What was this wonder product?
 
Because I had it in my shop for protecting wax lettering I used on my model boats, it was in fact just tried for the sake of it being there.
It is Letrset 101, a fixative and protector for what I have already mentioned, and was put on as a superfine coat sprayed from arms length above the polished plate, just how you would normally do it with wax lettering.
 
I used it on a couple of my engines that went to other continents, so I can't check it out to see if it is still working, but from the sample I have in my shop, I don't doubt that it still is.
 
 
 
Bogs
Thread: Advice re: holding workpiece to cut taper
27/09/2010 17:35:13
The first bit of this post shows how I cut a 5MT to fit into my lathe spindle, but you could use the same metthod for a smaller one. Forget about the grinding, use a good machining steel and you will be OK. In fact I wouldn't even bother cutting a 3MT, just buy a blank nosed one for a few squid and work from that.
 
 
Bogs
Thread: Newall DRO UK Suppliers?
25/09/2010 21:39:07
Kwil,
 
Looks like you too have a fetish for DRO's.
 
But I see you haven't taken the final step of one on your tailstock. I fitted one to mine a couple of years ago and during the time since, I noticed a few problems with it.
 
So I redid it a while back, and it is perfect. Spot on depth holes every time, allowing you to put things like cross holes much closer etc. because you can rely on how deep you have actually drilled. It makes life so much easier.
 
 
 
Bogs
 

Thread: plastic containers
24/09/2010 00:08:36
I can't actually see exactly what you are after because the ad bar on the right is running right thru the middle of all the posts.
 
But if you require tap and die boxes, whenever I place an order with the Tap&Die Co. they always ask if I want my bits packing with tap and die plastic boxes (brand new and clean). I usually get a few hundred of all mixed sizes FOC.
Fishing friends are always asking when I am going to place another order.
 
 
Bogs
Thread: New Machines
20/09/2010 08:43:36
Ken,
 
Don't go on my recommendations as to what supplier to choose, I only use Chester because they have always been very satisfactory for my needs and give me the backup when I require it. There are lots of other suppliers who do the same sort of thing for other people.
 
I know it is after the horse has bolted for some items, but I warned people many months ago on other forums of imminent large price rises .
Prices have now started to leap upwards. I noted the other day, by as much as 40% in some cases, so don't hang around too long before making your decisions.
 
It has already put the new small surface grinder I was after out of my reach. I am just going to have to refurbish my old one now, a job I can really do without.
 
Bogs
Thread: What is the ultimate lathe for model engineering
19/09/2010 21:22:19
Any machine is only as good as the person operating it.
 
You could buy the most expensive gizmo available, but if you haven't a clue how to use it correctly, it may as well be a hammer and chisel.
 
I personally loathe people who have too much money to spend on machinery, thinking it will make them better machinists.
Being a good machinist isn't reliant on the size of a wallet, you can't buy experience and the ability to work with what you have to hand.
 
Bogs
Thread: Die Filer files
16/09/2010 15:32:11
I ordered these files from KWIL's source exactly one week ago, and unusual for an American company, they accepted my Visa bank debit card, and they turned up today with no duty to pay, so the 14 files cost me just under £3-50p each.
 
Exactly what I ordered and cheaper than expected, a very satisfied customer.
 

 Here is the exact link
 
 
Thank you very much again KWIL for your efforts, I now have enough files to last me the rest of my natural.
Everyone else will now have to look after themselves, as these are now as rare as rocking horse crap.
 
 
Bogs
Thread: slow running engine
16/09/2010 09:15:53
Dougie,
 
What Neil has said all runs true, what might be you main concern is building the engine in the first place.
 
You really need to find someone who has built one of these engines, because some of the E.T. designs are so far out on plan dimensions and casting qualities they usually end up under the bench.
 
The last one I built was the 'Whippet' (and mine does run), using the old Woking castings. If you followed plan dimensions and casting markings you would end up with head bolts going into the cylinder, and that is just one example, there were many more plan errors. I had to get an ali welding friend to build the castings up in strategic places.
Hemingway, who took over the range from Woking 'redid' the castings for it, the Modelenginenews chappies attempted to build a couple, and it seems to have died a death. Search for Whippet on this page.
 
 
The Seal is another very good example, the castings were redone by Hemingway, and they are very different from the original casting shapes, but no effort was made to put right all the outstanding mistakes on the plans,, things like exhaust manifold studs cutting through head hold down bolts etc.
 
So as I said, find someone who has previous knowledge of using the plans and castings of this engine, only then, after it is proved to you to be fairly easily built, start to think about getting it to run like you want it to.
 
 
Bogs
Thread: Chester's CQ2365/ 920
14/09/2010 11:15:51
If it has tapered spindle bearings, have you correctly set the preload?
 
If not, the spindle could be positioned almost anywhere.
 
Belting with a hammer wouldn't have helped at all.
 

Bogs

Edited By Bogstandard on 14/09/2010 11:17:08

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