Member postings for Brian Oldford

Phil

As you may notice I have a few more things to do before I get to try this arrangement to work.

1: I have the key-way to cut.

2: Arrange to secure the bevel-gear to the lead-screw. (The grub-screw holes are there to secure the original bevel gear to the sleeve that fits around the lead-screw.)

3. Insert the remaining two screws that fix the stepper motor to the angle bracket.

After being diverted onto other tasks (some from SWMBO and others such as collecting an alternative mill) and having a long ponder on the problem of stepper motors not taking too kindly to the end thrust from skew gears and following the advice of others I decided to replace the previous arrangement with 2:1 Bevel Gears.That in itself proved to be a bit of a task because the larger bevel gear being attached to the lead-screw required modification to fit and to be able to drive.
I now need to cut a key-way through the 5/8" hole to enable the gear to transmit power to the lead-screw.

Time to fire up the shaper.

Try here **LINK**

Get a couple of Labrador bitches. Their continual piddling will kill off most plants PDQ.

Looking at those lovely swan-neck tools got me thinking.

Wouldn't it be possible to make a tool that relieves the cut if the bend of the swan-neck moved the cutting edge further back?

+1 for folding wedges.

This morning Hermes notified me they had reimbursed my Paypal account for an item they managed to break whilst in their "care". Thankfully I had paid the additional amount to insure it fully.

Firemen on heritage railways usually get an ear-bashing from the inspector for wasting water if they do that.

Lots of sellers on that well known auction site.

Many thanks Phil. I do like the control panel. £?

That what I use as my shop vac. Great for getting the swarf from the nooks and cranies.

Whilst waiting for parts to arrive for my Clough42 ELS I made the housings and fitted lead-screw thrust bearings.

As the new arrangement is somewhat longer I've had to "steal" back some space by: -
Reducing the plain bearing width
Shortening the boss of the lead-screw hand-wheel.
Re-drilling the lead-screw for the hand-wheel drive pin.
and
Shortening the Ny-lock nut so that the nylon engages with the thread on the end of the lead-screw.

Edited By Brian Oldford on 11/06/2020 20:26:47

I shall defer purchase until August.

Isn't that the reason why some people are migrating to mist coolant/lubricant?

The inexpensive compressors that are now readily available make such a proposition quite viable.

Easy of manufacture maybe?

Out of context, you could be forgiven for coming up with all sorts of connotations.

+1 for that.

Apparently there have been some replacement tumbler gears in packaging marked as being "Myford" being sold that are made from Tufnol Bar, Purchasers have been "disappointed" with their longevity.

That said, there is another vendor making exact replicas, perfect in every way, by cutting them from the appropriate sheet material.

Brian

If you are not in too much of a rush to complete the machining you could try a single point cutter and fly-cut the splines/serrations.

Mick

It might be useful for you to know that Myford 7 series lathes use Tufnol for the tumbler gears, I think the idea is the teeth would shear instead of something really expensive should you have a crash.

Tufnol gears also tend to run quite a bit quieter than metal gears.

Brian

Have you looked at this? **LINK**