Member postings for Steven Vine

I use the reasonably priced Black and Decker RT650. I use it a lot, it does me proud, and I am very pleased with it.
Like Neil says, they are handy for sheared bolts in awkward places on cars.

I did have a Clarke, but that only lasted 2 hours tops!

Steve

Edited By Steven Vine on 18/03/2017 16:34:48

Indeed there is mention of a run in period, on page 13 of the Owners manual:-

CARBON BRUSHES
The brushes and commutator in your tool have
been engineered for many hours of
dependable service.
In order to prepare your brushes for use, run
your tool at full speed for 5 minutes under no
load. This will properly “seat” your brushes,
which extends the life of both your brushes
and your tool.
To maintain peak efficiency of the motor, we
recommend every 40 - 50 hours the brush es
be examined. Only genuine Dremel replace -ment brushes specially designed for your tool
should be used.

I would have thought that If Dremel were getting a lot of unnecessary returns due to this brush problem, then they would have made the notification more prominent, instead of being buried on the 13th page? Perhaps the company is unaware that there is a problem and it is taking some time to filter back to them? Strange.

edit Or maybe there is a batch of commutators and brushes that are very badly matched in the radius.

Steve

Edited By Steven Vine on 17/03/2017 22:22:37

Ah,. That's the bit I was missing.

Steve

Thanks Jason and Dave. Looks like I will have to give it a practical go later today. I still can't get my head around it, though I do take your word for it.

If the fixed end of the pin is offset from the axis, then I expect the free end to swing out and away from the axis, and not swing inwards towards the axis. There must be some physics I am missing.

Steve

Edited By Steven Vine on 15/03/2017 11:41:29

Thanks Jason. I have a wiggler and have used the pointy bit to pick up on line intersections, so I understand how that works. What I am not getting (call me thick) is the plasticine and pin bit. Going back to my wiggler, the pointy bit with the ball on the end will align itself to the centre of the collet, as the ball provides the centering.

Now, if I centre a rod in the collet, stick a bit of plasticine on the end of a rod, and then insert a pin into the plasticine, then the chances are the pin will not be in the centre of the rod and may be offset from the spindle axis. If the end of the pin that is in the plasticine is not central to the rod, then how does it pick up centre?

Steve

Edited By Steven Vine on 15/03/2017 10:51:30

Please can someone tell me how this plasticine and pin method works? Where does the plasticine go, and where does the pin go?

Thanks

Steve

Suppose you started a thread with a post, and after 3 pages of replies you went back and edited the original post and all your subsequent posts (or even erased all the text your posts). That could make a nonsense of the whole thread.

Steve

Edited By Steven Vine on 12/03/2017 11:29:22

It looks like he ran out of paint while doing the flex. After a fine rub down, I'm sure he'll get the plug on the second coat

Steve

Gulp. I don't know whether to laugh or cry over that abomination.

Oh well, at least he didn't say 'refurbished'.

Steve

.

Hi Bill

A shot in the dark this. I found a picture of the FR here **LINK**

The one on the left looks a lot like a TVERTER-E2-202-H1F that I have. I have a manual for this. 

Maybe they are putting their badge on a generic inverter?

Steve

Edited By Steven Vine on 03/03/2017 20:53:43

Hi ega

There is some general info on this webpage **LINK**

There is a picture of a homemade stand, which I think is quite neat. It has a adjustment lever to allow the motor mounting plate to be moved, to slacken/tension the belt when changing between pulley grooves. There are some other mounting ideas in the pictures, including a single column pedestal (off a grinder iirc).

Steve

Nice photo sequence Petrol1head. Nice looking machine as well. Envy!

Steve

Edited By Steven Vine on 28/02/2017 14:45:47

Look how lovely and cuddly the forum has become ..... .

And all because of gif.

Steve

George

Crikey, I was thinking the very thing yesterday!! If you look at the Model Engine Maker MEM website, the posters there use a hell of a lot of animated emoticons, and it really seems to promote a 'happier and less volatile forum'; probably because the emoticons inject loads of humour.

Steve

That's what I initially thought as well Brian! (and who the hell is Wilbur?). But, after a bit of googling I found out that Wilbur was a penguin, and was the British Gas mascot (the aquatic avian). With a bit more thought it all started to make sense and it looked like he was not off his head (I guess it was me not being in the know). We could put this down to those 3D plastic printing fumes he must be breathing in.

Steve

Edited By Steven Vine on 20/01/2017 15:30:56

Ajohnw. My wisdom seems to be lost on you.

Steve

A tip when using PTFE tape. Avoid winding it around the male start thread. If you wind it round and keep it off the start thread then, when you do up the joint, the tape does not 'contaminate' the inside of the pipe; it remains in the threaded portion out of harms way. Of course, when you undo the joint you have to carefully remove the PTFE residue from the internal thread, to avoid contamination on reassembly. If you wind the tape over the front of the start thread, then when you do it up, the tape gets pulled and maybe cut, and bits of the tape are left in the inside of the pipe ahead of the thread.

I have used the LaCo sealant on a few jobs recently. It is a 'gritty' and thick solution as it contains PTFE. I have used it on it's own without PTFE and it seals gas and water joints ok. If you put too much on then you can contaminate the inside of the pipe. As I say, keep it off the start thread.

I also use 'Rocol Gasseal'. It is a non setting gas seal solution. It is a bit like boss white, but it is much finer and it does not set. I generally use it on small gas threads on it's own without PTFE. I have also used it on compression fittings to consolidate the joint at the olive. It think it costs in the region of £30 nowadays. My tin have lasted me 20 years and it still works well.

When PTFE came out we stopped using Hemp. Hemp is good, if you need to pack a joint to get an elbow tight and facing in the right direction.

Steve

Edited By Steven Vine on 18/01/2017 15:00:30

Rod who?

This link should take you to the 'Thermistor' page in the TEC motors online catalog.

**LINK**

Steve (who really should be doing his tax return)