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Member postings for Richard Parsons

Here is a list of all the postings Richard Parsons has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Chuck Dismantle
20/08/2011 15:16:43

Nigel Thanks I forgot that trick. It rather like bopping a carden shaft to draw the cup out of Hardy-Spicer joints. The cup comes out on the side where you hit.

Thread: digital tv switchover
20/08/2011 15:03:59

Pat Thanks I live in Hungary I have found your link most useful. Al I need now is to find which satellite the Beeb/ITN use and thei frequencies Then I will need get hold of the sheet metal.etc I need for a 2 Meter dish.
Oh by the way the Variation in Hungary is Zero degrees
I am glad to hear that Beckley is closing I used to be able to see it a few miles away from where I lived but could never get more a light sizzle from it. They never found out why, but i did!

regards

Dick

Edited By Richard Parsons on 20/08/2011 15:07:00

Thread: Chuck Dismantle
19/08/2011 11:02:10

Hi Alan.


If you look at the back of the chuck you will see in the screw holes a discontinuity. This indicates that the centre of the chuck back is separate and splits on a line at about 1/3 of the screw’s diameter. The screw threads actually hold the whole thing together. The front view confirms this. You will see a fine band showing where the inner part joins the outer from the back.


When assembled the whole thing would have been machined. The 'DE Whiton' company did not mean it to come apart.


If you have a small woodruff cutter, cut two shallow grooves just on or below the joint as seen in the photograph. Use a brass punch and drive the back out. If that does not work. If SWMBO is agreeable (or is out) stick it in the oven at about 120° C for an hour and try the brass drift again.


Good luck. If you have to be really rude to it well at the moment it will not work so you cannot make it much worse.


Dick

Thread: Delapena Hone
17/08/2011 17:17:51
For such narrow bores there is an old ‘nug’ smith’s trick. You smoke (or use plumber’s dirt which is not as good) the inside of the tube and seal up one end (I used plumbers dirt for this). Melt and pour in a small amount of lead. When cool swage the slug with a suitable rod and pop out the slug. Drill it and mount on a bicycle spoke. Roll the slug in a mixture of thin oil and a suitable grade of carborundum powder on a piece of glass and lap away at will. Before changing grades wash everything well, very well. You can make new slugs at will. This works with a tube which has ‘lands’ in it.
Rgds
Dick
Thread: Myford online auction
15/08/2011 17:43:00
Andrew
Be like me. I want a planer so i am drawing plans to build one myself
Rdgs
Dick
Thread: Subscription Loyalty Reward?
04/08/2011 18:25:29

Hi Paul stick with the DD system. I do and I do not have to worry about the vagueness of Magyarposta or the old GPO, remembering to renew my subscription, loosing the reminders etc . If they do not perform I will just drop my bank (on them exit David very worried). Gifts – there is no such thing in this world as a ‘free lunch’!



regards

Dick
Thread: New technology in Model Engineers Workshop
29/07/2011 14:02:33
The spin drier motors will only run up to 12,000 rpm or there abouts if they are under no load conditions if it has no fan.. The spin drier motor I use came from an old Electrolux and used a belt drive. In No load conditions the cooling fan prevented running up to about 5000 RPM. The Russian motor had no fan and went into runaway!
The speed controler is a very ancient design. I think if any part of it gets 'curried' the whole thing it goes 'Open Circuit'. I will 'open the box and copy the circuit.
28/07/2011 18:01:25

Mike If you can drop your ‘hooks’ on an old spin dryer motor. The ones with brushes all you need is the bearing head set (2 Tangential ball races or 2 cone rollers). Make the pulleys to suite the elastic belting used in some washing machines. A cheapo fan controller kit –the pulsed DC type-(to give you variable speed) and away you go. The spin drier motors run up to about 12,000 RPM higher with no load so watch it when you are testing them (I had one Russian motor burst its ‘commutator’ before it ran up to ‘windage’ the fan on it was slipping)


I will post some Pics later


Regards


Dick

Thread: Measuring
28/07/2011 17:42:47

Humph! Ever since about 1950 I have called them ‘telescope gauges’. They go down to about ½” (12mm). Below this down to about 0.2” (5mm there are the Open cup ball gauges. I can get down to about 3mm with a Moore and Wright ball gauge (2 off 0.4mm balls in a tube pushed apart by a needle). Below that I made a series of 3 steps on a single pin. One step is 0.05 mm too large one is just right and 1 is 0.05mm too thin. I make there in my 5mm Lorch as needed. The actual size of each part is made to size and the extra metal removed with a pivot file so I have three narrow rings of the sizes needed.
rgds

Dick

Edited By Richard Parsons on 28/07/2011 17:43:28

Thread: Scribe a Line Kitchen Knife Sharpening
25/07/2011 13:21:20

I know the feeling. My SWAMBO was always complaints about ‘Lack of Sharpness’. You will find the cure in Model Engineer Vol 203 No 4362 (9-22nd October 2009). She was delighted with the thing.


The 4 or so I have made so far since they are all going strong.


The problem of backing off only occurs once a year and I use a coarse ‘Stone’ cutting Diamond disk in a modified small angle grinder. This is fitted to the guard and gives an angle of 6° to the face of stone (174° angle. The diamond stone cutters is a little thin and it is backed up by a 6mm steel disk this prevents the disk ‘flexing’.


Regards


Dick

Thread: speed control pcb for Clarke CL300 lathe
25/07/2011 09:13:24

Some 36 years ago I bought a reconditioned single phase motor. 4 years ago I had it re furbished at the cost of about £6 (2,000 Hungarian Forints) which included a new set of bearings. There was a tendency for it to have a problem with its starting windings. I am now on its second belt (about 16 years old).


It gives me all the speeds I need for my old Myford. What price electronics?
 
Regards

Dick
Thread: Linked drive belts from RDG
23/07/2011 07:55:43

John Stevenson. Unless you have at least £10,000 to throw away just do as they say. It is cheaper in the long run. Every time you win – you lose – ‘they will find a way to get back at you.


My 8' X 8' workshop was in the back of one of my two garages. The Local Authorities knew it was there as they wanted both (privately owned) garages I think for ‘asylum seekers’ cars.


All sorts of folk including Gnomes of Elfin Safety, Min of Agriculture and Public Health inspectors have the right to go where they will. They can all do this without a court order.


The best thing to do is to keep well below their RADAR.

21/07/2011 10:18:17

In a word yes’ link belts worked very well on my Super 7for many months until I was raided by the local Goblin from ‘Elfin Safety’. She ruled that that link belts were unsafe as the Super 7 has a ‘lift up belt cover’, so she cut the belt and took it away. She also wanted the machine to be retro fitted with very expensive interlocks on both belt guards and the change gear cover. The hand feed on the lead screw should be removed or covered plus god knows what else.


As I understood the old baggage, link belts are forbidden if they can be accessed without the drive motor is isolated.


The visit did not really surprise me. 2 days before I had had the local chief of the ‘Care in the Community’ mob slowly roasted by the top boss of that mob. Local Authority officers work hand in glove with each other. You scratch one and the rest will get you.

Thread: Soft Faced Hammer
16/07/2011 07:26:44
Get your self a Raw Hide mallet. You can make them by soaking the rawhide and rolling it up into mallet head. Clamp it with a few hose clips and some nails. Then let it dry.
Thread: Something to ponder 02
14/07/2011 14:06:07

Michael Sorry about that. I just cut and pasted the name on your post.


Actually has a look at this thread ‘New technology in Model Engineers Workshop’ it is a long thread. I am thinking of using the techniques as metal over here in Hungary is very difficult to get, but I have a large garden full of the most wonderful sand. I want to build a planer. It’s size will depend on the materials I can get. If I have to use the classic machines slide ways I am limited to about 16” (406mm) with a table of about 7” (178mm). If I can get 3-4mm hardened rods and can find or make suitable channel steel I will build a 24” (610mm) long machine with a 10” (254mm) table.


At the moment I am trying to calculate what and where the stresses are on the guide ways.


It all depends on getting everything I need locked away before I start. By ‘locked away I mean ‘locked’!

13/07/2011 16:00:53

MikeG Yes I know about the gib. I am only going to use this type of slide way if I can get the necessary rod/wire and channel. As to the problems of swarf that is the least of my problems. I plan that the ‘balls’ will contact the wires at 1/3 of the balls circumference. Does this sound too wide a contact angle?


I will be using channel because I am going to build the rest using Epoxy-concrete mixture

Rdgs

Dick
13/07/2011 11:28:45

Do you mean something like the drawing. I am working on them to use on a small planer I want to build. The original I want to use as the stage on a micro drill (if ever I can get a picture of the mechanism of the Boley model




Thread: A New Dividing Plate for my Dividing Head
09/07/2011 04:58:59

The answer to your problem can be found in an earlier thread. This thread is called “Cutting a 365 tooth gear”.>>

If you copy the title into ‘Search for keyword’ you will find it.>>

Good luck>>

Dick>>

Thread: Best way to improve fit of main spindle quill in casting (long)
07/07/2011 15:50:04
What we are looking at here is a dead ringer for the Warco VHM mill. I have had one for some 18 years. I have only used the quill 3 times. My reason is the oil seepage I get every time I used the quill.
 
Dick
Thread: Motor as Dynamo/Generator
06/07/2011 09:13:04

Alternators (your bicycle generator) have a better output at low revs than DC dynamos. This is why car makers changed to them when the reliable solid state rectifiers became available. What do you want to do with your steam generator set? Power some lights? Then use LEDS, no rectifier is needed.

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