Member postings for Gary Wooding

I've been using a device called a PUK welder for some time now. It's similar to the Orion pulse welder shown in Ady1's last link. It's specifically designed for jewellery and dental work, but useful for all sorts of small things, such as tack welding small items prior to soldering. It has a 10x self darkening binocular microscope and items to be welded are hand held right next to the weld point. I typically use it for welding new tips to claws without removing the stones.

I take exception to Ady1's statement about kids mucking about, it requires considerable practise, experience, and skill to use properly.

I'm probably wrong, but I thought that GPS speedos worked by measuring the time between map location points, which are, of course, dependant on the map resolution. I understand that non military GPS resolution is 25m, so you will get false speeds if you don't travel in straight lines between resolution points.

Try a size 2/0 piercing saw blade for .6-.8mm thick metal. The traditional blade lubricant is "nose grease"; just wipe the sides of your nose with your thumb and first finger, then slide them down the length of the blade. It works very well - I kid you not. That's what I do. When you feel that the blade isn't cutting like it did when you started, the chances are that you need to lubricate it.

As suggested already, tilt the blade slightly away from you to help keeping a straight cut. DON'T try pushing the blade in an effort to cut faster, it doesn't work and you're liable to break the blade. Let the blade cut at it's own speed.

It takes a bit of practise to use a piercing saw, but the effort is well worth it.

My Centec 2B has a knee and a quill and after fitting a 3-axis DRO I thought it was complete. There were many times, though, when I found it tedious drilling and tapping blind holes. So much so that I spent considerable effort to fit and install a quill DRO - and a depth stop. Not easy on a Mk3 head. I'm very pleased I did though.

Prompted by the end of BST I searched GMT on Google, only to find that it has been called UTC since 1972. So then I looked up UTC and found that it stands for Coordinated Universal Time, so why not CUT? I'm clearly behind the times.

Thank you Dave. Much appreciated.

I did, and got the following response...

I got one as a text from...

07305 110500

Santander: Your mobile banking has been set up on a new device at 16:16.

If this was not you, visit:

https://santander.reset-details.com

I don't have a Santander account. I showed it to somebody in the local branch. They were totally disinterested, all they said was "It's a scam".

+1 for Bill's expanding mandrel. I've made several of different sizes and they all work fine.

SOD: Bletchley used to offer a kit for a fully working, electronic, version of the Enigma. Don't know if it's still available.

Martin: Clive is right, your best bet is to reconfigure your motor as Delta format so that your 220v VFD can drive it at full power. Some motors can be reconfigured by simply re-arranging the cables in the connection box, but some, like those in my Centec, have to be surgically altered by splitting the star-point.

The basic characteristics of a 3ph motor driven by a VFD are: constant power when run above 50Hz (or 60Hz in USA), and constant torque when run below. So, above 50Hz, the torque reduces as the speed increases, and below 50Hz the power reduces as the speed decreases.

If both circles were the same size, would the right answer be 1 or 2? It's a question of definition, surely.

The pickle I use for gold and silver jewellery is 10% H2so4. I tried Hcl many years ago, but didn't like it as much. I can't remember why.

I have an E-GO electric bike - it's the folding model. There is an old car-type ignition switch for battery power (you can't run without the key), and a small control panel on the handle bars - see photo. The other day the lights on the ctl panel went out as I was riding, and there was no power to the motor. I didn't stop but pressed the ON/OFF button, the lights came on, so so I continued. I reached my destination (only a mile or so more) without mishap. On my way home the same thing happened.

The battery was fully charged, so what happened. Where should I look for the problem? Any ideas anyone?

I have 3 piercing saw frames - an Eclipse, a very old one with no name, and an early KC. The old one has a deep throat and is used only when necessary. The Eclipse was my first and only one for a number of years, but has been relegated to the job of sawing off lengths of rod or tube in the chenier cutter because the KC is so much easier to use for intricate work. It's noticeably lighter, with a better balance, and the blade tensioning method makes it far easier to cope with the problem of removing and replacing the blade when sawing out lots of separate internal sections. See photo.

The conventional way of blade tensioning is to slightly bend the frame by bracing one end against the bench and pushing the other while clamping the blade. The problem arises when having to also support the workpiece at the same time in order to stop it rotating and breaking the blade; think of a 6/0 (0.18mm thick) blade in a 0.6mm hole. The screw tensioning of the KC is sooo much easier.

F360 can do rectangular box, sphere, cylinder, torus, coil, and pipe. No tetrahedron.

Neil,

Your address is missing the 'i' from 'mytimemedia' - it's resolving to 'mytmemedia'.

I've never heard of that word.

The obscurity is terrific!

I've not managed to fix it yet. I've not even managed to dismantle any part of it. I can't extract the taper from the chuck body, and the rear collar appears to be just a cap, which also refuses to come off.

By holding the tang of the taper in a vice I'm able to app[y a powerful pipe gripper to the shroud, and have managed, little by little, to unscrew it enough to see the start of the thread. Each time I try, there is considerable internal grinding, and I'm able to unscrew it a little more, but not yet enough.

The keyless drill chuck I use on my lathe suddenly decided it had had enough. I had just removed a drill and wanted to insert another, but although the sleeve turned, the jaws didn't move. I can screw the sleeve in and out about 6mm, but the jaws don't move. There's a slight grinding noise apparent when rotating the sleeve, but the jaws remain stationary. There is no maker's name visible anywhere. I've used it without problems for a number of years.

I can't see any way to open it up to determine, and hopefully rectify, the problem. Any ideas?