Member postings for Brian Wood

Hello Smudge,

I made a knock out bar with a brass business end and weighted lump on the pulley end to release Morse tapers rather than impacting threaded draw bars. My DW is a Mk II with 3 MT taper socket and this arrangement has worked successfully since I built the machine > 30 years ago.

Regards Brian

I can vouch for Steve, his limit is 1000 kg and he knows what he is doing too. Good man.

Brian

It is easy enough to do a first pass of 90 degree steps with a square collet, the component just needs a rotation of 45 degrees within the collet to complete the pattern for an octagon on a second pass.

Brian

Edit    Why not go for a 12 step version with the hexagon collet block? Exactly the same logic applies.

Edited By Brian Wood on 12/05/2023 11:16:32

And yes from me.

Brian

Looking at my Mk II and comparing that with pictures of the Mk I whatever the knob was for on the earlier version is absent on the Mk II, so my earlier posting above is not relevant. I stand by the call for a photo though

Brian

From the description it sounds like the control wheel for the slow down feed to me, to operate when the worm at the end of that shaft is engaged with the teeth on the cross shaft with the three armed capstan on the right hand end of it.

A photo would help pin it down

Brian

As a suggestion, try heating to a dull red heat and let the material cool as slowly as possible buried in something like vermiculite. That will certainly alter the crystal structure and it might be enough to let you get on with making your clamps

Regards Brian

As a side story to vented fuel filler caps. Many years ago the family car began to stall at infrequent intervals, often inconvenient too. After a few minutes it would start again and run for a while more before repeating this behaviour.

We discovered by chance on checking the fuel level that the tank itself was under partial vacuum and yes, there was a blocked vent hole which was the culprit.

There was a sting in the tail too, the fuel tank bottom had bellied upwards and it then only held about 3/4 of capacity; worse still, the take off point became exposed above the fuel well before the indicator suggested otherwise and in the end it had to be replaced.

Brian

Hello again Robert,

There is another mounting point where a collet closure can be attached just to the rear of the spindle that you may be able to utilize in some way to add a further choice to the mix. And finally from me, needing some ingenuity, a bar mounted off the X slide itself that can include a drop/swing down tab to butt up to the inner edge of the rear shear at the critical time

End of ideas now!

Brian

Robert,

If you are not using the set of threaded holes on the rear side of the lathe bed [for mounting the Myford taper attachment] would there be scope there to build up your stop from those mounting points?

Regards Brian

If your spindle has the 1.125 inch x 12tpi nose you can bond a collar onto the 1.125 inch diameter register and finish machine that in situ to 1.250 inch diameter so that the lathe can accept ML7 spindle fitting chucks and other such hardware. I upgraded my Dad's old ML4 with that simple modification and it transformed the lathe in terms of finding affordable accessories.

Regards Brian

I stand corrected and better still by those who have done it successfully. Thank you for adding to my knowledge.

Regards Brian

I think the same applies, the lead content will most likely interfere with the hardening process and render it ineffectual

Brian

Hello Paul,

Now that I know the leadscrew pitch [thank you] I can confirm that the second gearing choice you listed will indeed produce a 20 tpi thread of 20.0025 tpi, close enough for most purposes I think. The version of 40/80 as the first reduction stage will produce a 20 tpi thread if followed by gearing of 47/37, hardly handy!

40--idler--63 on the leadscrew works well [error 0.003 tpi ] and with a 63T gear you can get most imperial pitches. My book on lathe gearing covers lathes with 2 mm pitch leadscrews. Available through Google with change from £15 it might solve several problems for you. [Gearing of Lathes for Screwcutting] ISBN 978-1-78500-250-2

Regards Brian

Hello Paul,

Do you know what pitch the leadscrew is please? That will help enormously in checking your screwcutting results

Item 4 The groove down the leadscrew is to provide power take off for powered cross feed

Regards Brian [ An imperial Myford man]

I would agree with Joseph, dig it all out and remake it

Brian

Paul,

Mk I Raglan lathes used 16 DP change wheels, the later machine with gearbox used 14 DP. Both of these would have been with 14.5 degree pressure angle. I should think the dimensions for bore would be adequate and the keyway could be recut if necessary.#

Regards Brian

And while you have the motor fan cover off, see if the fan is secured to the motor shaft.

For those who perhaps took interest in this exchange, there are dimensional differences between the Mk I and Mk II versions of the mill. The vertical helical column diameter is smaller by about 1.5 mm on the Mk II machine as measured between John's mill and mine, thus scuppering any chance of adapting his mill with my parts.

Whether or not a design change between the two versions or a tubing supply issue took place I don't know but it is an important point to take into account for anyone else considering a change.

Regards Brian

Paul,

Having seen a picture, it could be a Bridgeport clone in which case you may find a clamping bolt on the side behind the spindle head with a scale round it. That will allow you to tram for 'nod' and assuming there is ram to allow the head to traverse front to back, there should be clamp bolts pitching that so that you can tram in the opposite direction

You may find the nose in the spindle is broad enough, when you have wound the spindle down to contact the table, to judge the tram when using the controls I have mentioned and set things up to get the nose in full contact with the table. When in that position, clamp up the pinch bolts and nod bolt and you will be on tram

Regards Brian