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Dore Westbury Milling Machine

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Smudge16/05/2023 12:21:56
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18 forum posts

Hi All

I have got a Mk1 Dore Westbury Milling machine.

It doesn't have a drawbar.

Firstly does anyone have one for sale.

Or could someone make a drawing of it's dimensions.

I can then make one.

Thanks in advance.

Stay safe

Dougie Smith

peak416/05/2023 12:53:02
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2207 forum posts
210 photos

Probably easier to make one yourself; just make sure the threads at each end are truly square to the bar.
Measure the through bore of the spindle, and wither thread both ends of a bit of round bar, or use some threaded rod.
You might need two anyway, depending on what accessories you use; 10mm & 3/8" are the normal, though I also have one with M6 at the bottom end.

For the top end I use a commercial plastic knob with a brass threaded insert cast in during manufacture; it doesn't need to me too tight, as a Morse 2 taper is self locking anyway.

I don't actually use MT2 tooling that often on the DW mill, prefering an ER25 chuck on a Myford nose thread

Herbert Junior Surface Grinder recommissioning.

Bill

Edited By peak4 on 16/05/2023 12:58:05

Smudge16/05/2023 13:28:05
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18 forum posts

Hi Bill

thanks for your reply. I will have a go at making one, am I right that tapping on the top to break the morse taper

Brian Wood16/05/2023 13:48:05
2742 forum posts
39 photos

Hello Smudge,

I made a knock out bar with a brass business end and weighted lump on the pulley end to release Morse tapers rather than impacting threaded draw bars. My DW is a Mk II with 3 MT taper socket and this arrangement has worked successfully since I built the machine > 30 years ago.

Regards Brian

not done it yet16/05/2023 15:05:02
7517 forum posts
20 photos

I use couple of wedges, one from each side, to loosen the MT, if a light tap (with a white- or yellow-metal mallet) does not free it off. Wedges are strung together to prevent droppage and it only needs the drawbar to be loosened, so the cutter and holder cannot drop out completely until under-control removal.

Philip Rowe16/05/2023 16:16:12
248 forum posts
33 photos

Unfortunately the MKl D/W only has a 5/16" clearance hole through the spindle, not sure about the MKll machine. So using standard 3/8" or 10mm drawbar and accessories won't work. I overcame this annoyance on my D/W by making adapter pieces that are threaded 3/8" Whit on the male end and tapped 5/16" on the other end. These were permanently attached to the collet, drill chuck morse taper etc with screwlock. The top end of the drawbar was threaded 5/16" to take a nut and washer that acts against the top of the spindle. To release l give the drawbar a smart blow with a lead hammer. Has worked for me these last 40 years since I constructed the machine. Phil

peak416/05/2023 18:52:43
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2207 forum posts
210 photos
Posted by Philip Rowe on 16/05/2023 16:16:12:

Unfortunately the MKl D/W only has a 5/16" clearance hole through the spindle, not sure about the MKll machine. So using standard 3/8" or 10mm drawbar and accessories won't work. I overcame this annoyance on my D/W by making adapter pieces that are threaded 3/8" Whit on the male end and tapped 5/16" on the other end. These were permanently attached to the collet, drill chuck morse taper etc with screwlock. The top end of the drawbar was threaded 5/16" to take a nut and washer that acts against the top of the spindle. To release l give the drawbar a smart blow with a lead hammer. Has worked for me these last 40 years since I constructed the machine. Phil

Yes, I must drink more coffee before I post in the mornings.

I started to type, intending to say what you have, but distracted myself and partly wrote about the drawbar(s) I made for the Centec; Sorry for misleading you Dougie.

On My DW Mk1, I've used a length of 8mm bar, with the top few inches threaded as M8, and the very end turned down a bit to save damaging the thread.
The bottom end has been turned down to ¼" and threaded BSW.

Like Phil, I have a set of short stubs to suit my MT2 taper arbors, internally ¼"BSW, with some externally threaded to M10, and others to 3/8" BSW, as I've got both old and new tooling; mine however aren't Loctited in as I also use the arbors on the Centec,

One important point, is when tapping the end of the drawbar, be sure to release the fine downfeed worm first, to save damaging it.
I forgot once, and now have a very light tight spot where I've distorted something slightly; it's now wearing in again so gradually curing itself.
Also, rather than risking shock loading the main spindle bearings, I lower the spindle a bit and insert a length of wood between the end of it and the table, to absorb the impact.

dore westbury drawbar.jpg

Bill

Edited By peak4 on 16/05/2023 19:09:29

peak416/05/2023 19:29:59
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2207 forum posts
210 photos

Sorry not quick enough to edit post, so see added photo here

drawbar annotated.jpg

Bill

Smudge16/05/2023 19:36:02
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18 forum posts

Hi Bill

Thanks Bill

you are a gentleman and a scholar, the photo is very helpful. I will have a try at making one.

all the best

take care

peak416/05/2023 19:57:44
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2207 forum posts
210 photos
Posted by Smudge on 16/05/2023 19:36:02:

Hi Bill

Thanks Bill

you are a gentleman and a scholar, the photo is very helpful. I will have a try at making one.

all the best

take care

Sorry for misleading you initially, My Centec has a captive drawbar, and this makes the arbor self ejecting when you turn it anticlockwise; it's convenient sometimes, and a pain others when I need to change the drawbar as well as the tooling.
When you do make one, try and pay lots of attention to ensuring the thread is square to the material; if not, it will be hard to screw into the top of the arbor.

Start it off in the lathe with the die/holder against the tailstock or a thrust pad, or ideally a tailstock die holder.
If you've never done any lathe screwcutting, maybe this would be a good time to practice.
You only need to do the first few passes in the lathe, after which you can finish to final size with a die.
If you know all the above then my apologies, but it might help someone re-visiting this thread in the future.
I'm fortunate in having a Coventry/Herbert die head so I used that for making mine.

Bill

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