Member postings for Brian Wood

Hello Mike,

I made the change to taper roller bearings. As KWIL says, you need to alter the clamoing rings to accept the wider bearings. I bought spares from Myford and modified them before I stripped the lathe.

It is a worthwhile mod in my opinion

Brian

Paul,

I don't want to pour cold water on the debate, but I too considered switching to inverter drive for lathe and mill in my workshop. I exchanged a lot of informative correspondence with Mr Newton of Newton-Tesla who was most helpful, but unable to resolve my concern over the effects of earth leakage on our over sensitive trip [which is about 15mA]

It is apparently a feature of the construction of these inverter systems that about 10mA is leaked to earth; this is not usually a problem for most domestic earth leakage trips rated at 30mA. It can be adjusted but make it much less and the motors begin to sound 'metallic'

Our computer system at that time was a mains powered tower stack that needed tedious restarts in the event of a power failure, accompanied of course by the loss of data not protected, My wife does a lot of computer designing and saves stuff in slabs as she remembers, laptops have battery back-up so that is not a problem now.

I had no desire at the time to incur domestic wrath every time I powered up machinery, nor the fag of tramping back to the house to reset the trip. so reluctantly I passed the concept by. I manage well enough with a resiliently mounted single phase 3/4 hp Crompton motor for the lathe and the less well silenced single phase 1/2 hp motor on the mill.

Neither of these run excessively warm, you should be able to bear full hand contact on the motor housing after a good run without leaping back in alarm. As Lampton says, check loadings and free running

Brian

Hello David,

Diesel or air power, does it matter? It is an enchanting piece of work and the video quality enhances the whole presentation.

Old it may be as apparent from the comments so far, but it was new to me and I enjoyed it immensely. Thank you for providing the link

Brian

Edited By Brian Wood on 26/03/2013 10:03:45

Hello John,

Ouch.

I think I am right in saying all Myford spindle drives are by woodruff key. They did use pins for gear couplings on lathes up to the ML4 before switching to keyways there as well..

Not sure what you will find when you take it to pieces.

Just a thought before you do that as you don't say which model Myford you have, but it could just be the manual key for back gear has been shaken out of engagement by the shock loading from intermittent cutting. Good luck anyway

Brian

Even the loo paper was marked with the WD broad arrow and stamped Propery of MOD as I discovered in the 1960's on visits to Naval dockyards in Scotland.

Brian

Hello Craig,

That is very encouraging, it is still good to hear that practical knowledge and enthusiasm can still secure a hands-on job, well done. Clearly the selectors were realistic as well and were not looking for a degree where it isn't needed.

To an old timer from the past it is good news, I had similar experience.

Brian

Hello Alan,

Or you can contact them directly. I've been using one of their heads for years and recommend the quality, they make decent gear.

Brian

Arrand Precision Engineers

The Forge
4 Braunston Road, Knossington
Oakham, Leicestershire LE15 8LN
United Kingdom

• Tel: +44 1664 454566 TPS
• Fax:+44 1664 454566

Hello Woody,

I think you are running away with the idea of replacing bearings quite needlessly. You seem hell bent on it.

The picture looked just fine to me, you say the spindle is in good shape so from my ML4 experience of many years ago just adjust the nip on the bearings to take up the trivial wear you have and it should be good for the next 50 years. Nothing more to do, start making things!

If you simply must spend money then buy a decent quality ML7 as a second machine

Brian

Hello Mick,

Try local agricultural engineers and structural steel fabricators or suppliers of that sort, I had stuff that size some years ago from farm sales but it went in a clear out.

Brian

Hello Grandad,

Try using some used scotchbrite pad that has had the 'keeness' taken off it, red or green pad will do and match the very light abrasion it gives with other markings on the job [such as machining marks etc] to hide its use.

The removal of metal is truly miniscule, the heat marking is only molecules thick anyway and it will disappear as if by magic.

Brian [another grandad]

You say there is plenty of oil in the reservoir cup; that rather suggests to me it is NOT getting where it is needed and as KWIL suggests it needs investigating. It means stripping out the mandrel to get to the spring loaded wick in the bottom of the front bearing. Mine is quite thirsty and I top up weekly.

There was a short article in MEW about 2 years ago by Ken Willson [ sorry, the reference was something I didn't note at the time] which described replacing the angular contact bearings with taper roller bearings. It was a clever mod. I adopted and fully endorse.

You will need to machine the screwed rings to accept the taper roller bearings to include it. The easiest approach is to buy two new rings from Myford to modify before you strip the lathe, unless of course you have access to other facilities to do the work.

Brian

.

Hello David,

I've shot my bolt I'm afraid, over to others for more suggestions. I do think there is a clue in this being a fairly recent departure from the norm, what else might have happened or changed to bring that about?

It is probably just detective work now to eliminate things that will bottom it. I'm sure we would all like to know the answer when you have it!.

Brian

Hello David,

I forgot to add in my comment that because you have observed this behaviour as a recent departure from normal, it would point to something along the lines of my experience rather than some dramatic event leading to an eccentric or bent leadscrew.

In those cases I would expect the markings to have a bias along one side of the bar and be absent on the other as there would be a cyclic component involved to affect the cutting at the tool face. Another clue is that things behave as expected when facing, the markings are only apparent when the leadscrew joins in.

I hope I'm right

Brian

Edited By Brian Wood on 10/03/2013 16:20:02

I had effects like that some time ago on my Myford. Running a toothbrush along the leadscrew and then cleaning the clasp nuts to allow correct depth bedding again cured it.

Brian

Hello David,

Belt pull will affect the bearing loading, rather agreebly so it seems in your case, but as to bearing wear that would be a different matter. They are bound to 'ease' more on that side.

A test looking for movement in the mandrel when pulled hard back in a direction opposite to belt loading might be more indicative and then set the bearing nip accordingly to those findings.

Brian.

Many years ago I worked in a process control laboratory in a chemical works where we were issued with ankle high wellies to resist the acidic damage to your own shoes. Our changing room had lockers for your own kit and we were joined one day by a particularly slobby individual who would insist on leaving his boots reeking on the floor at the end of the day.

My patience failed when dirty underwear started to join these boots and got my revenge by nailing them to the floor.

My lathe and mill beds are swept clean at the end of the day, the floor however is a different matter!!

Brian

HPC Gears are still at Chesterfield, they also have a website.

www.hpc-gears.co.uk

contact [email protected]

They will want to know what pressure angle to make the gears to and the DP size.

I don't know the box well enough to help sparky mike, can others advise?

Brian

Hello David,

Jones and Shipman use a different approach [ after setting up the wheel] using a multi row indexing drum, with a fine feed to the work directly from the drum and then grind only the front face of all form cutters. No use of a tooth rest at all; it is though uesed on side and face cutters. An interesting alternative.

Regards Brian

David,

I don't like to contradict you, but to grind the rear faces first as you suggest requires indexing accurately so that those faces are all equally distant from the front cutting face.

If that approach is not done correctly then the front faces will be ground to differing postions by reference from the back, even while still radial and the cutter tooth depth will vary so that only some of them are doing the work.

Why add that complication; just align, then index the front surfaces to start with?

Brian

Well done Alan, not an unreasonable price.

If they need it, do remember to sharpen them radially ONLY on the front cutting face to preserve the geometry.

Brian