Member postings for RJW

Martin, done a bit of digging around on the web, the pump in the link is the same as mine, there's a data spec' on the listing that should help.

What about a fuel transfer pump?

John.

**LINK**

Edited By RJW on 01/02/2017 23:07:37

Hi Martin, sorry I'm still looking for the spare pump for my machine, it's buried somewhere under all the clutter I've been moving into the building, I'll pull the tank off my machine and take a shot of that next time I'm in there,
It's a different pump I think to what the tank uses shown in the link I gave,
From memory it's about 100mm diameter and deep, 240V, plenty of pressure too, you can get a fair old fan of spray by covering part of the knozzle, but the motor doesn't stall if you shut off the end, so the delivery could be regulated with a tap, it does need to be submerged, but you could shove it in a 5 litre container if size of the tank is an issue,

Something like this might do the job:

**LINK**

John.

You're probably right David, The bottle is also nearly empty and the burners were 'waffling' a bit, so maybe not burning efficiently, headache gone this morning and feel ok, but had a day off anyway, couple of degrees sub zero again, not nice handling cold steel.

John.

Thanks Martin & Neil, that's pretty much the cause, I'm always mindful of fumes from the heater, but it surprised me how quickly it got me, I'd been traipsing in and out of the building continuously and there's a fair breeze under the up and over door at t'other end, so it's not as if there was a shortage of fresh air going in there,
Will have to think of other heating solutions though, can't continue with that risk when the building is finally draught proofed,

John.

Martin, it may be worth you looking at something similar to the parts cleaner shown in the link, you could use it as either a parts cleaner or a coolant tank and pump combined, they're designed to pump solvent as well as crap that escapes a filter, all the data you need is probably on the listing,
I've no connection to the seller, it's just to illustrate an alternative solution which would work for you,

I've saved a 'Safety Clean' parts washer pump myself for just such a job and which came as a spare with my parts cleaning tank, the intention being to make a coolant tank for the lathe, but the mill I bought last year came with a portable unit and has saved me the trouble,

I'll post a photo up of the pump unit later, it came with a flexible metal hose and appears to be a dead ringer for that shown in the listing.

John

**LINK**.

Sad to hear about Rileys, used to buy odd bits of tooling and while away many an hour or so there when we lived in Sheffield.

John.

Got the Warco mill back together again and fired up for the first time since I bought it, wife's a happy bunny now too because she's got her greenhouse back, which is where it's resided as a pile of bits since Spring last year,

Off to hit the paracetamol now to get rid of a nagging headache, calor gas heaters are good for taking the chill off a place, but they don't half make you suffer for it.

John.

Thanks Richard, new bricks helped no end though,
Nice job on the playroom too, they look like handmade bricks which would have made the job interesting for you - aside from having to clean them up, I just unpacked packs of bricks and trundled them down the yard.

Excellent getting the kids involved too, they'll always remember that, and definitely better than having their heads stuck in games consoles or mobiles.

John.

Thanks Mike, I've built a few walls in my time, but it's the first full building I've done, it wouldn't have won any prizes for the length of time it took to do though

Apart from planning consent, the roof was probably the biggest hassle of the build, couldn't get anyone to quote for roof trusses, so had to make a cut frame in situ, must have been something to do with a hip and valley over such a small area (8' x 8' ), then because the tile manufacturer wouldn't be making any of the types to match the existing garage until this summer, we had to scout around various ad sites and buy used tiles in whatever quantities we could get, all worked out ok in the end,
Warmed up a bit today so hopefully get a bit more done in there and the miller finished off.

John.

Edited to get rid of a smiley after the brackets?

Edited By RJW on 27/01/2017 11:04:50

All the very best with the chemo Windy, hope all turns out well for you, I have two close relatives who are going through the same treatment,

John

**LINK**

Thanks George, it's been a long time in the doing but it's nearly there now thank goodness, I've since made an access door into the garage which makes life a bit easier.

You're so right about those mats, they fit together very neatly too, I'm only putting them down where I'm going to be standing and walking though, so they'll be a continuous run along the workshop from the door to the garage access and in front of the benches and machines,
I'm leaving the machines standing on the bare concrete for now, I've painted the floor anyway, so that cuts dust and makes sweeping up easier, but if I change my mind then it's just a case of slotting new mats in.

I first saw these on a promo' in B&Q but they'd all gone when I went back to get a few packs, but they still had them on their website available for local collection, think they're about a tenner a pack, money well spent!
Mine are branded 'Rolson'

John.

A shot of my Sieg C1 with M1 mill combo, the box on top of the headstock contains a British made control unit which replaced the original Chinese (Taiwanese?) electronics, it was modded that way before I bought the lathe, so I still need to reposition the box somewhere else because it gets in the way,
The wheel handles were a bit piddly for big hands, so they got changed for the larger C3 types.

I got lucky with a Warco Minor mill at a good price last year which came very well equipped and virtually new, so when the Myford's done and the Warco back together, they'll make this pretty much redundant, although to be honest, I'm finding the will to let it go a bit hard and will probably hang on to it for a while yet, it's too handy for knocking up clock bushes and the like which need a bit more meat chewing off faster than the Boley can cope with, where the Myford might be overkill,
For clock work though, it's just the job if limited for space, variable speed, screwcutting, attachments are cheap, think the imperial and metric changewheel sets (plastic) were around £20 for both sets, plus there's a taper turning topslide not shown, it wouldn't cost too much to rig it up for gear cutting, but I've never bothered going down that road (yet).

A similar rig might be worth Jim considering, but if a separate mill is a must, then perhaps something like a Clarke CL10 mill might do the job, small footprint, but the bed is a bit on the short side.
There's also the Potts milling attachment which might be worth looking at, should fit the ML10,

John.

A shot of my nearly done man cave, it's a bit further on now thankfully,

Hope to finish off putting my Warco Minor mill back together today, then can make a start on cleaning up the ML7 and reassembling it.

The concrete floor was hell to stand on with the cold striking up, but came across some packs of interlinking foam mats in Morrisons one day, and what a difference they've made.

John.

I've only got a couple of the outside at present George, will post one up as soon as I can remember how to get pic's into my album,

It was a long haul getting the thing done thanks to East Yorkshire planning chiicanery, took 4 years all told just for consents with applications and appeals, nightmare!

John.

Recently got my new 'man cave' finished, which is basically a 16' x 8' brick garage extension built onto the back of the original garage, but at 90 deg to it,

Started moving all my machinery into it from various nooks and crannies recently, and looks like a complete tip at present with dismembered lathes, mills and grinders strewn around, stuff is slowly going back together again and taking shape nicely, looking forward to getting to use some of my gear again.

John.

Jim, I've used almost exclusively either an 8mm Boley or Star watchmaker's lathe for all of my clock repairs and restorations, which has been for everything from timepiece carriage clocks to 8 day longcase and Comtoise types plus everything in between,
The only thing I struggled with on them were mainspring barrel or winding drum repairs due to diameter, but both a larger 3 and 4 jaw chuck plus an 8mm adapter sorted that issue,
I used the Star predominantly because it has a compound crosslide, I've got one for the Boley too, but it's not as nice to use,

Additionally I've a Sieg C1 with vertical mill attachment that gets and occasional airing, plus an ML7 which I've never used for clock stuff, but since acquiring a Cowells 90 lathe plus attachments, the Sieg will be going up the road shortly,

The Cowells and Myford are both equipped to do clock wheel cutting, but to be truthful, life's too short and I can't be faffed with doing it, so buy uncrossed wheels cut by pro's who are geared up for that work, then do the crossing out by hand myself,

Depends really what sort of work you intend doing, but I've never needed a mill for any clock work in 20+ years, that's not to say you might not of course.

John.

Edited By RJW on 25/01/2017 14:17:05

Clive, might be worth taking a look at the link below to convert back to a local account once you've sorted the mess, not sure if you can change until Microsoft have sorted things out,
I got caught in the Microsoft account trap on my Win 8.1 laptop, and it got to be a real pain.

**LINK**

Alternatively, try this for a free .pdf download,

John.

<edit>

As a publishing house ourselves we can't allow the posting of links to pirate copies of current books.

Neil

Edited By Neil Wyatt on 11/08/2016 21:15:38

Brian, you've reminded me I need to post up some long overdue pic's of my Cowells which I mentioned on the site some months ago,

I stripped mine back easy enough, just used a very sharp (defunct) woodworking chisel which shaved it all off a treat, then used good quality 180 grit paper and thinners to clean it up (3M's production discs), it was easier than sanding off all the edges of the chips and dings then risking the solvents in the new paint lifting the old,

For paint, I just used a rattle can of acrylic car paint of a similar colour, purists might have a wail over that, but it looks better than it did, and unless anyone seeing it is an anal Cowells concours judge carrying around colour chits or has a photographic memory of factory colours, I can't see it matters much, it looks better than it did when it was covered in crap and chipped paint, so I've probably enhanced its value, not that it matters anyway, I won't be selling it any time soon,

I certainly wouldn't pay a premium for factory paint, but each to their own.

John.