Member postings for Ian Parkin

You could do it with a stepper motor which would be quieter but loads more electronics to run it perhaps

Is it part of the design that it has to be motorized? rout a slot in the rear and put a knob on the belt to move it back and forth manually or bring the shaft out to one side and a big knob on there

Then after checking continuity heat shrink the connections twice and wrap or tie wrap all the wires back into place

colour code or mark each pair and bring the wires out to the connection box and reconnect as delta

Ian

Heres a series of pics I did to illustrate an article on how to change from star to delta

its a brook motor so very similar to yours

Edited By Ian Parkin on 05/10/2015 11:08:38

Just carefully cut the strapping away and it will tease away from the windings and pull out

then tease the wires out and you should easily see the star point

cut and solder on new wires and then use your strapping or small tie wraps to tidy up

I received my micrometer today

The battery that was installed was completely dead but a spare was packed and the mic works well

Its in a nice box well padded etc the setting gauge looks more suspect....not well finished

Ian

David

My mum had an electric fire with the fireglow bulbs in it constantly blowing

I thought get her some leds..end of problem

Only trouble is the bulbs act like heaters to make the flicker effect with the spinners so leds no use if you have flicker effect too

I use discs for the angle grinder that have a fleece on them

they are called dronco discs

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dronco-115-x-22mm-Bore-Angle-Grinder-Cleaning-Fleece-Disc-Coarse-/131558858436?hash=item1ea184dec4

They are really great for cleaning matals and for polishing steels and give the brushed finish

they look expensive but last well

Les

that looks great i'l order one of those to play with

Ian

I have sorted the problem now with the flow meter bought off ebay

I tried it on my compressor in my workshop connected up at 150psi for about an hour ( gauge rated to 100psi)

It seems fine its solid acrylic 1" x 1.5" with 2 tapped connections,I'm not sure what would happen if it failed coud it explode with shards of perspex eveywhere?

Anyway on connecting to the machines supply it was a simple matter to isolate each unit until one was apparent it was consuming lots of air at rest so panels off and the leak was obvious.so good result with lots of time saved

after repairing the leak the flow meters ball was just off its rest at the bottom rising fully to the top if I actuated one valve so its nice and sensitive ( the scale is marked at 0-20 SCFH )

Ian

Ben how much roughly is that skf gadget?

This is the type of press

the panels on each side on a kba are made of 10mm thick alloy those are the white door size areas near the top

under there is the control systems of the machine

the air supply pipes and control valves are under the running boards

So imagine being called in to fix a problem with this when the operator tells you the hp compressor is running all the time and kicking out due to overheating and having to find the problem quickly while 3 blokes stand around doing nothing and a factory full of machines all making lots of noise

Andrew

yes i hope they will work its just they only rated at 100 psi rather than the 150 psi likely

Also the meter will not be left in place its just for fault finding purposes

most of the time the whole system works in spite of leaks... the first time problems flag up is when the compressor packs in because its running 100 % of the time

A big leak is obvious because one unit wont work or one actuator fails to move..its just lots of small leaks that build up to a massive air loss

John what people are not grasping is that to take ALL the panels off takes perhaps 2 days to find a leak that takes 2 mins to cure when the panels are off the leaks are easy

I need to speed that up by diagnosing where it may be before dismantling

This is a multi million pond press new and with 3 very highly paid blokes not working so time is of the essence

Ian P

0.4ft3/hr would be nothing i'm talking 4 ft3/min

these machines are massive 30-40 tons running maybe 10 compressors (lp)

and one HP compressor maybe with a 50-100 litre tank

I know it seems strange to say that you cant hear the leaks but you cant.... taking panels off to look with a spray just takes too long

heres the layout of a typical press

the air supply pipes genrally run at ground level down each side of the machine

So if I place my meter at A I can then isolate at E,D,C,B on each side and look at the meter to see which unit is leaking most before stripping down further

then further on each set of pipes coming from the manifold maybe 30 pairs

there may be 30 actuators in each unit

Some presses you can spend 3 hours removing just one side panel and then similalr putting back together

For anyone who knows these are KBA's or man rolands

heidelburgs are a bit simpler

Just one more thing re my bed

It does not have any serial number on it...certainly where it should be at the tailstock end between the vee and the way

Does that mean its been reground? how much would be taken off in a regrind?

Ian

Yes you are right the machine should not be consuming any air whilst at rest or indeed whilst running

only when certain operations are called for but for most of its running time its drawing no air.

But the poor compressor is running 100% dealing with leaks

All I need is a device to go into the airline and tell me if theres any flow, I'm not really interested in the flow rate just if theres any flow

so I bought a couple of these to experiment with

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/331631247476?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Most air supplies are 10mm or 12mm nylon tube so it wont take long to adapt

if you can imagine a machine 40 ft long with 6 units and each unit taking perhaps 30 - 120 mins to take its panels off any time saving is good

If the device i've bought stands up to the pressure then the ball will be at the top of the column so by crimping /isolating pipes downstream of the meter will quickly show where the major leaks are

I've been fiddling with printing machines now for 35 years so I do work in a logical fashion but with machines getting more automated with electronics and air actuators I could do with some help with diagnosis as they get older and more leaky

Lots of times the source of the leak is rodents they seem to like the taste of nylon tube

That seems to be the sticking point the pressure requirement

they all seem to go up to 6.9 bar or 100 psi

sometimes the machines run at 120-150 psi

I wonder if a flow meter states safe to 100psi what will happen if its 50% more

It could explode showing vicinity with shards of perspex. I could enclose it in a clear polycarbonate tube vented

I have ordered a flow meter off ebay I'll try it at 150 psi for a while to test it

Nick

doesn@t a manometer measure pressure

I need to measure flow

like volts equals pressure amps equals flow

Does anyone know if such an instrument as a air ammeter is available?

Presumably a anemometer

In my day job I'm called out to large machines that have a lot of pneumatics on them.The poor compressor is running continuously and the operator reports "we have air leaks"

So have to start removing panels and looking listening for air leaks can take ages particularly when theres multiple small leaks.

These machines are large multi unit printing machines with a common air line running down the length of the machine each unit has a manifold with valves for each unit

If I could put an "ammeter " into the airline coming from the compressor I could clamp the supply line at various places and narrow down where the major leaks are before removing panels to the various units

Something like the flow meter (with the ball rising in a tube ) fitted to welding bottles but safe up to 150psi

My local air components supplier cant help but suggests a ultrasonic listener device at vast expense which needs panels removing and relative quiteness...not easy in a large commercial printers whilst everyone else is running.

anyone any ideas?

Ian

I have a boc migmaster unit ( a cebora 130) I was fed up with the wire snagging or not driving smoothly so I bought a euro connector and fitted that to the welder then i can fit a new euro torch easily

My welding supplier sells euro torchs for a bout 30-40 £ and they are european made ones

and it makes it easier to transport the unit to onsite jobs

Having said all that I recently bought a esab buddy tig...mig hardly gets a look in now

Ive just uploaded a quick youtube video of me attacking the bed of my student with a new file ( british made etc) and as a sample a piece of silver steel

Theres a massive difference in hardness

The file does just glide over the bed cuts easily in the ss

https://youtu.be/d9P5AfjZl7w