Member postings for Ian Parkin

Grant whats your vice in your first picture above? is it good?

I have a magnetic swarf remover the type that you pull the handle and it drops off into the bin invaluable for ferrous materials.

Basically a magnet in a stainless tube

I'm sorry I must be dim where are they?

Do Automotion Components do imperial sizes? I dont seem to be able to find them online

Glenn wanted to keep his lathe imperial so his dials were as intended

Ian

Glenn here's your finished lead screw

When I received the parts it was quickly obvious that the nut wasn't worn that badly but looking at the screw that was badly worn at the length that gets all the action...the flat top of the acme thread had worn to a nice rounded top.

If the nut was moved to the unworn extremities there is hardly any backlash. I can only imagine that the nut is newer than the screw

The nut is a simple 1" diameter bronze threaded 10tpi 3/4 LH pressed into the holding block and a oil/grease hole through to the thread

Grant

When I bought my wm18

I dismantled and carried each bit into my workshop down 13 steps

Then reassembled in situ

All by myself

Gives you a good opertunity to check and lubricate things

Dead easy apart from the gas strut on the head assembly

Ian

I would have thought that i can cut you a nut

lets see a diagram first but I should imagine £50-60 will do it in bronze

Can anyone see anything wrong with these bits

Has anyone got one or any experience of using one?

I bought a set off ebay its arrived and looks mint I would say its not been used

However on first try a new presto 8mm tap broke which I was dissapointed with

Putting a piece of mild steel into the holder and starting my drill press @40 rpm

theres no way i can cause it to stop turning with a 12" set of stilsons on the shaft of the mild steel

the adjustment is on minimum

after looking at the rubber/neoprene buffers they appear solid not plient at all

Is this whats wrong...the rubbers gone hard?

Trevor

you still have the same travel surely

you now go from 0" on the scale rather than 1"

but you run out at 3" rather than 4"

I would keep the quill deeper in the tailstock

Whilst we are on the subject of fobco's whats the purpose of being able to lock the quill down? both the star and my 7/8 fobco have a quill lock ....as the chuck cant have a drawbar you cant do light milling so why might one want to lock the quill?

I always tension my bandsaw so much I'm frightened of the frame breaking but good quality bi metal bands certainly last well

as said if it jumps its a bad or missing tooth

In 25 years with the saw i've only broken 2 blades at the weld and none at elsewhere...just worn out perhaps 200 blades in all

I think the worst job is cutting sheet material it seems to catch at the blade join try and keep 3 teeth in the job at any one time

Bigger stuff cuts well right up to the 4inch capacity with my prefered starrett blades i can cut 100mm MS in perhaps 2 minutes

Took my chuck to bits to photograph its construction

Remove the large screw from the outside on the ring...fairly tight large well fitting screwdriver needed

Hold chuck over a basin or rag and rotate body holding ring with screw hole downwards

about 30 balls will drop out

or you could fish out with a small magnet

then the ring will pull off clean and refit

Ian

Well my collets certainly dont have that warning on

they are quite easy to take to bits once you know how

springs off

move one leaf at a time into the centre

move slightly back to the rear

leafs slide out then

easy on the larger sizes

more difficult on the smaller ones

Emgee

Have you any evidence that PI causes cancer? if you eat cans of it?

I've spent nearly 40 years in the print industry and never heard of that

I would quote both to prospective buyers

This was my lever action unit made the block that screws into the casting so it was just a modification to mount the steering rack

I bought a secondhand tailstock to try and make a lever action ram but found it too hard work when drilling larger than 6 mm or so...too much force needed so back to the drawing board and a BL mini steering rack was put into service as a sort of capstan drive

Works well.. lots of feel on small bits and lots of power with larger ones

Mark

2 wire control is used if you have latching switches so your start switch is n/o and wired in series with a n/c stop switch only if the switch latches on will the inverter start and carry on running

and i dont think this system is a no volt release system as if your start switch is on and the stop switch is out then the inverter will start on power up

Most inverters allow you to make the inputs latching or not.

if you want to use normal switches (unlatching) you need 3 wire control

Ian

Well if you are running under arduino then a stepper motor is easy