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Member postings for _Paul_

Here is a list of all the postings _Paul_ has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

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Thread: 3 phase
31/08/2011 16:05:23
I am told it can be quite expensive to have 3 phase installed, as you only intend to use a mill and a lathe (perhaps infequently?) have you considered the alternatives of perhaps a digital inverter or a static or rotary Phase Convertor.
If you are the adventurous type you could even construct your own Convertor.
 
Regards
 
Paul
 
(usual disclaimer about both companies applies)
Thread: Grayson Lathe
29/08/2011 16:18:11
My 3-1/2" centre Grayson has a 1/3 HP British Thompson Houston motor on a bit of a lash up countershaft.
It also has an interesting mod someone has added 1/2" plates/risers under both the headstock and tailstock now making it a 4" centre machine.
I think mine dates from around 1930, it has direct drive from the apron (if you can call it that) handwheel which means the handwheel turns "backwards".
 
Regards
 
Paul
Thread: Office Laminator - Benefits in the Workshop
25/08/2011 15:26:26
You can with a little ingenuity make your own self adhesive plastic labels and/or covers for books:
 
Print your desired graphics on gummed paper (or plain if book binding) put two sheets inside the laminating pouch face out, once laminated cut off the edges and voila plastic coated stickers/book covers.
 
Regards
 
Paul
 
 
21/08/2011 20:30:05
Bought an Aldi one some time ago, so in my workshop I have Tap/Drill charts, Size comparison charts etc. blu tacked in strategic positions nothing more that Excel spreadsheets printed (big type ) and laminated but oh so handy and as you point out Steve very hardy.
 
A good tip if you write on one with a permanent marker and subsequently want to remove your scribblings go over it with a dry wipe pen then quickly wipe the wet marker ink off, same technique seems to work on most plastics.
 
Regards
 
Paul
 
 
Thread: cutting round bar
20/08/2011 01:51:20
Snooping around Fleabay might dredge up a donkey saw or two, I bought a Qualters & Smith 6" donkey saw (with spare blades & coolant pump) a few months back for £60.
 
Down side is its very heavy but much better than trying to cut thick lumps by hand, it will chomp through 2" solid EN1A bar in around 40 secs.
 
Plus the old saw came with a dual voltage 3 Phase motor so when connected to my Teco inverter gives me any cutting speed I like.
 
 
Regards
 
Paul
Thread: Boxford Cross Slide Tee Slot Positions help please
14/08/2011 12:56:01
I have just bought this boxford topslide to replace my standard one:

It seems to be a geniune Boxford item judging from the type of filler and paint used on the casting, I can only assume from the fact it only has a single slot it must be an early variant of the current slotted cross slide like the on below :
 

What I would like to do is to cut the other two slots in the casting to make it the same as the one immediately above, it does appear to have enough meat for the job.
 
My question is; does anyone know what the measurements are between the slots or perhaps have a Boxford with the above type of cross slide they might be willing to take some measurements from? I have trawled the net to find this info but to no avail.
 
The only thing I have found are references to aftermarket cross slides which from what I read appear to have four slots to Myford spacings/dimensions (South Bend variant here).
 
Regards
 
Paul
 
 
 
 
Thread: Boxford blues
04/08/2011 14:10:55
The lever on the front in conjunction with the small lever to the L/H side of the headstock operate the Backgear.
 
The red knob (if I read you right) is the tumbler reverse and governs the direction of the carriage when the leadscrew half nuts or apron feed are engaged.
 
I leave mine engaged in the direction I use it most (cutting toward the headstock) I do also (Rightly or wrongly) change it while running .
 
Regards
 
Paul
 
 
Thread: Subscription Loyalty Reward?
04/08/2011 14:02:20
I currently pay my subscription to "Model Engineers Workshop" by direct debit, prompted by a (spam) e-mail to re-subscribe to "Model Engineer"? I went to check the state of things.
 
It seems as a direct debit subscriber I will never have the reminder to re-subscribe does this exclude me from any further subscription gifts?
 
If if pay my subscription yearly as opposed to direct debit do I get a subscription gift?
 
If I cancel my subscription and take out a new one I will get a subscription gift?
 
A loyalty reward perhaps?
 
Regards
 
Paul
 

 
Thread: Cutting oil
02/08/2011 20:34:29
WD40 for aluminium and some brasses, it's expensive in aerosol form so I buy mine by the gallon then dispense using one of SWMBO's old hair dye bottles with a syringe attached to the tip with heat shrink tubing, dont waste much and get it right on the spot.
 
Machine mart sulphur based cutting fluid for all ferrous (except CI) again bought by the gallon and dispensed in the same fashion as the WD40.
 
Soluble cutting oil I buy from "The Baltic Oil Works" locally for about £20, a gallon lasts me for about 12 months used mainly in my old Qualters & Smith donkey saw.
 
Regards
 
Paul
Thread: Rust and how to remove it.
27/07/2011 00:24:14
The school of thought from my neck of the woods is that you never cleaned the teapot as it destroyed the flavour
 
(apologies for the ot post)
26/07/2011 19:43:39
Lol
 
Although im sure I read somewhere (poss Wiki) it said that tea dosent actually contain Tannic acid but Tannin?
 
Regards
 
Paul

Edited By David Clark 1 on 26/07/2011 21:54:20

Thread: Hammerte paint
26/07/2011 19:22:38
Hammerite has two varieties the old type (like the cans on my workshop shelves) which smell of thinners/acetone and dries far too quickly and the latest incarnation which appears to be oil based and dries a little too slow for my liking.
The two types must not be mixed.
I have tried thinning the stuff using ordinary celulose thinners and Hammerites own thinners but neither seem to work very well OK for cleaning the brushes but not to thin to use.
 
If you wnat a hardwearing smoothish oil resistant hardwearing finish you could do worse than use Tractor paint "Tractol" or "Sparex" to name but two dries quickly enough not to run but slow enough not to drag or leave brushmarks.
 
regards
 
Paul
Thread: Elliot 10M Shaper.
26/07/2011 19:11:50
£400 does seem somewhat on the high side I paid £240 for this Elliott 10M about 4 weeks ago.
The vice that is offered is it a shaper vice? the reason I ask is that it's not many that come up for sale with their original vices. If it is the original vice it can make a big difference on the price.
I vaguely remember the 10M had a choice of 2 vices one of which wasnt so good.
 
"Neebs" on the Homeworkshop forum is rather knowledgable on these machines.
 
Regards
 
Paul
Thread: Linked drive belts from RDG
22/07/2011 17:42:59
Posted by Chris Trice on 22/07/2011 14:23:07:
Not really if you have the choice to buy or not buy. A simple belt is manufactured by the million compared with link belting which clearly takes a lot more to manufacture. You can't be advocating it costs the same? You're also paying for the convenience of not having to disassemble your lathe headstock to fit it which at £20 an hour would cost you a shed load more money negating the cheapness of the plain belt.
 
 
My question was why is it so expensive, for what amounts to small pieces of shaped and reinforced plastic.
 
Nothing clear about it taking more to manufacture I can envisage a large press punching links out by the million.
 
And no not the same price preferably much less, surely no one is naive enough to think this stuff isn't grossly overpriced.
 
As to paying someone else £20 an hour I guess if youre incapable then the Motor factor belt would cost you labour time.
 
Regards
 
Paul
22/07/2011 08:49:33
You pay for the convenience though, a headstock drive belt to fit my Boxford lathe is around £5 from the local motor factors as opposed to the £17 a metre I have to pay for the Brammer belts in my Taylor mill.
 
Why is link belting so expensive? it dosent look incredibly special...is it another case of not charging what the goods are worth but what the market will stand.
 
Rip off Britain.....
 
Paul
Thread: Low tempreture Ali welding
16/07/2011 15:18:29
Hi Mick,
 
Lumi weld is one, I have used it a few times the last job was to restore the threads in the alloy sump of a GT550 Kawasaki.
Time before that an alloy front brake lever from the same machine.
 
Using a virgin stainless steel brush clean the piece to want to "Braze" then warm up the workpiece until it's hot enough to melt the filler rod (but dont apply direct heat to the filler rod) keep dabbing it on all the while using the supplied stainless rod to "scratch" the edges of the alloy until it forms a skin with it.
Once cooled the filler rod is about as hard as mild steel to file dril tap etc.
 
The stuff I have is not the latest technology but I bought quite a bit of it cheap and am only now getting down to the last bits of it.
 
Paul
Thread: Rust and how to remove it.
16/07/2011 01:44:41
This is what I do,
 
Method one for larger items:
 
Plastic container (Bucket Box etc.) with
A gallon or so of water
A cupful of Sodium Carbonate (Washing Soda)
Battery Charger
 
My Plastic box has a piece of lead sheet halfway around it connected to the battery charger positive electrode and then you connect the item you want to de-rust to the negative electrode/terminal.
 
You can see after a very few minutes the rust fizzing off the surface, it's a non destructive process but if the rust on your item is "heavily pitted" then once it's gone there will be craters.
 
Method two for smaller bits:
 
Citric acid powder from my local Indian Foodstore
Pan of boiling water
 
Simply immerse your item and boil until the corrosion is gone.
 
With both processess un-rusted metal is not affected in any way and unlike using abrasives it leaves no scratch marks.
 
(Something for the health & safety lot: Both processess produce hazardous gasses)
 
Lots of info on the net about it the battery charger method seems popular with home shop restorers me included.
 
Regards
 
Paul

 
 
Thread: Internal swing up toolholder
14/07/2011 21:16:17
Mike,
 
Great work.
 
Regards
 
Paul
Thread: Miniature gas torches
07/07/2011 22:48:50
I have never soldered beading strips but for fine soldering work requiring high but very localised heat I use one of these Iroda MicroJet
 
Regards
 
Paul
Thread: Planers
30/06/2011 01:03:47
Youre very lucky John I would love to have such a machine to my collection.
 
Regards
 
Paul
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