Member postings for _Paul_

Today nothing as nice as dog walking i'm afraid i'm trying to repair the 6F table feed on my BP mill.

And I bought a P5 Kawasaki as well

Regards

Paul

I understand it may not suit everyone but making your own ER32 chuck isnt that hard IMHO and if made on the machine it is to be used on you are assured of the best concentricity.

I'm sure John Stevenson (Sir John) posted a diagram on here somewhere if you wanted to go that route.

Regards

Paul

On my ML7 I use ISO32 hydraulic oil T68 slideway oil and Molybdenum (CV Joint) grease, the ISO32 & Molybdenum grease can be had from most motor factors the T68 I buy locally from The "Baltic Oil Works" here in Newport for around £25 a gallon though I see Chronos sell "Multispec 68" slideway oil for around £26 delivered.

Regards

Paul

I disagree the Myford style is not a bad thing for its size & typeand good work can be done using it, but there are better alternatives than the "Classic" type have a look at the offerings from Chronos (usual disclaimer)

A little more expensive though,

Regards

Paul

I think it was John Stevenson who very aptly described the markings "as a scale of no dimension", the last one I bought (I bought the cheapest I could find) from Amadeal for around £50 works very well for the price.

Regards

Paul

Very nice clean design Chris, I wouldnt mind copying that if it's OK?.

For your handles have you considered something like this:

probably have more locking pressure than a knurled knob.

Regards

Paul

T68 way oil would be my preference.

Regards

Paul

Well done they are good robust machines but a little on the heavy side.

You will find 1/2 HP is not enough it may turn the machine over but the cut speed will drop under load.

My 6" Qualters & Smith has a 1&1/2 hp 1425 rpm? single phase motor and cuts well with it, I will check the pulley sizes for you tomorrow.

Once I can find the manual I can tell you what the recommended cut speed is.

Regards

Paul

Yes you are quite correct right slacken the screw disengage the dog tighten in the outside position lft the lever under the spindle nose and you should be in backgear if it's not been used for some time sometimes the oil between the spindle and the backgear bush can gum up, also on very early machines like mine they dont have the oil nipple on the pulley face oil is fed from an oil hole in the centre sheave of the spindle pulley which is sealed by an allen screw if this is too tight it will lock the spindle to the pulley.

Regards

Paul

Edited By _Paul_ on 19/05/2013 21:17:08

Did someone mention welding jokes....

She was only the welders daughter but she had acetylene legs

Why not just blow them out with an airline?

Regards

Paul

80a is a bit on the small side, the duty cycle on some cheaper end machines can be quite short so I guess it's down to what you intend to use it for.

Cant help with a source for you brushes but I will relate one of my own experiences with Carbon Brushes:

When I got re-married many years ago funds were tight what with the new nipper and all and when the time came to replace the Washing machine carbon brushes the £10 at the time was unafordable so off to the local motor factors and bought some Dynamo brushes of around the right dimensions for a Triumph Herald if I remember correctly, so suitably filed to shape in they went and all worked well for a while then about six months later they wore out again so same routine file to shape in they go...after around 18 months and the third set the motor armature was so badly worn it wouldnt take another set.

Popular concensus was that as the Triumph Herald brushes were a lot softer than the washing machine ones so they presented a constantly fresh "abrasive edge" to the copper armature wearing it out prematurely.

Apologies for the long tale

Paul

If you think the shiny jaws arent helping have you tried a slip if paper around the work?

Paul

The 6F type on my machine run off the inbuilt Bridgeport transformer, it does indeed have a 230v tap.

Regards

Paul

Thanks John just ordered some from Arceurotrade.

Andy nice idea but I dont think that will fix these they really are quite bad.

Roy your right I will be sending them back first thing Tuesday after putting a flea in their ear.

Many Thanks gents

Paul

Can anyone reccomend a UK supplier of good quality 1/4" (or 6mm) brass button oilers, just had some delivered from a "northern supplier" and not one has a circular hole where the ball sits all have some form of ovality, lip or other deformity rendering them useless.

Regards

Paul

IMHO another good book is "The Model Engineers Lathe Manual" by Edgar Westbury there are also some very good lathe videos by the late Rudy Kouhoupt (Camden Miniatures stock these in the UK)

Regards

Paul

Hi Stew, thanks very much for the pics and I think it's a great idea for an article.

Regards

Paul

Hi Stew, engine build looks great,

I have a question tho how is that foot mounted on the Caliper?

Regards

Paul