Member postings for Bernard Wright

Hi Folks,

Thought I'd add a short video of using one of these indicators to centralise my rotary table. https://youtu.be/ajzC41SI1cU

As people have mentioned, you need to leave the half nuts engaged.

Forget all about the Thread Dial Indicator, I've taken mine off.

I'm not suggesting you do, but I've found it easier even with Imperial threads, to leave the half nuts engaged and just take off the cut and reverse, it's a lot easier now with the VFD.

My lathe won't do 1.75p out of the box, so trying a few work arounds to see which is best.

Bernard.

Hi Karl,

Welcome from Sunny Scunny...

Bernard.

Hi Eric,

The graduations may relate to an amount taken off the Diameter of the hole.

I know mine does, though mines in thousandths of an inch, very accurate too, but can't remember from where I purchased it.

So really you will need to take a cut at one division, and measure the difference from the original hole size.

Bernard.

From Sunny Scunny...

Hi folks,

The choice to have one fitted is personal really.

I made a sturdy sheet metal wraparound one for my Master, initially to keep the coolant from escaping and drowning me.

I found it invaluable in keeping hot swarf from burning into my clothes and skin.

When down, I can only see round the side of it from the tailstock end, so need to stop the spindle for any inspection.

Stay safe though,

All the best

Bernard.

Whilst a few of you champion the ER system, especially for holding material to work on, and so do I.

However I found it wanting holding milling cutters above 3/8"/10mm.

I was making some new milling vice jaws, and using a 20mm long spiral cutter, left it on auto, only to find the cutter had pulled out of the well tightened ER32 Collet, and left a tapered slope to the jaw base ledge.

Luckily there was suffient material in both jaws, to level things up with a Clarkson Collet Chuck, using same cutter.

150mm x 150mm x 80mm Cast Iron from College Engineering Supplies will cost you £77.84 inc P&P tax isn't mentioned.

Seems rather a lot

If there is something very special to you on that stick, why not try using a Virtual Machine application to install W95 virtually, can't hurt and it's about the only way forward without losing your data.

I believe there are free softwares availlable for this purpose, and maybe purchase a cheap USB (whatever your machine supports) to a USB 1.0 stick socket/reader.

Edited By Bernard Wright on 17/04/2021 19:27:09

Harry W, I've used RDG for several purchases, in general they are quite good, BUT I purchased a 'Precision' Universal Vice from them, due to an illness at the time didn't use it, over a year later I tried to put it into use, only to find it was so badly machined, with the base at least 0.050" out of flatness with its mating surface.

I contacted RDG and spoke to their boss whom pointed out it was over a year since purchase and wouldn't do anything about it, other give me a pair of magnifier goggles in recompense, not very impressed so say the least.

I duly re-machined all surfaces and lined up the degree dials, replaced the the very poor bolting arrangement.

In the end re-purposed the swivel base for the Universal Workhead on my Clarkson, that is now truly 'Universal'.

Moan over, I can recommend 'Zoro Tools UK' , free P&P over £20 with some very good deals, they are the discount arm of 'Cromwell Tools'.

Also can recommend Cutwel, had two pleasurable trips to Cleckheaton, ordered ER50 Collets at an exceedingly good price a couple of hours earlier, they were in a bag in their Goods out office on arrival, brilliant.

Edited By Bernard Wright on 07/04/2021 15:18:00

Edited By Bernard Wright on 07/04/2021 15:24:27

I've modified two 7-1/4" PB 3 jaw chucks, these were OEM on my Colchester Master Roundhead, that had integral L0 backplates fitted, to GripTru capability.

The first one I copied PB's design, ie; with 3 tapered screws.

The second, I used an old method of 3 grub screws, where the tapered screws would be.

I found this later design far quicker to setup.

Quite honestly I wouldn't be without either.

I only ever use a 4 jaw if the work is odd shaped.

Having said that, I certainly wouldn't buy a new one at the prices quoted, if a reasonably priced SH one came along I'd snap it up.

P.S. Just looked in my photo gallery and see I'd posted a pic of both types there

Edited By Bernard Wright on 27/03/2021 07:17:07

Edited By Bernard Wright on 27/03/2021 07:17:39

Edited By Bernard Wright on 27/03/2021 07:22:11

It only takes one person, If you kept the receipt.....

Sorry if someone else came up with that gem from 'One Foot in the Grave'

Edited By Bernard Wright on 17/02/2021 22:42:46

I bought a very nice set off fleabay for a tenner, to repair the wife's wheelchair front casters, worked a treat.

Edited By Bernard Wright on 13/02/2021 12:33:03

Hello again Folks,

I can confirm that manual in that link looks identical to my 'Official Master Manual'.

I've also had some progress from my earlier posting, I took the gears I'd made off the machine (24t & 29t).

I then replaced the 35t original gear on the gearbox, but tried the 24t on the drive splines instead of the usual 21t.

I had a go at threading with the plunger in 20 hole, and levers in the same A-D position, and the selector on Metric, what do you think?

I ended up with very close to 1.75 pitch, unbelievable and very relieved.

I'll post some images in my album to insert in my next posting.

Ian, I think you'll need a 48t Driver with a 35t Driven and the levers/plunger/selector same as above to give 3.5p, really hope that helps. Bernard.

Sorry missed that bit of detail, My lathe is a Colchester Roundhead Master 6-1/2" Mk1.5 Mach No: F 3/63579 X.

It's more of a Mk1.75 as I've modified it quite a lot, I'll post a photo shortly.

Hi Dave,

The 42t gear is usually used for the larger pitches of thread, if you look on the gearbox plate it illustrates at the bottom as needing the 42t to be used for those pitches.

Normally it would have a 21t as the driver, 120t is only an idler and the 35t is the driven (on the gearbox).

This actually leads me into a query of my own, I presume your gearbox plate shows Imperial in black, with the only Metric pitches available in red.

There is no 1.75mm and 3.5mm pitch showing, the manual gives a formula to create gearing, for odd Imperial pitches and Metric.

I followed these rules and produced a 24t Driver and a 29t Driven for a supposed 1.75mm pitch using the 20 plunger hole and A-D selector levers.

Needles to say I didn't get 1.75mm pitch more nearer 2.1mm pitch.

Has anyone on here overcome this problem, I would really like to hear from you.

Hi Andrew, just a suggestion, measure the broken end of the tapered screw.

Find a good bolt of that diameter with enough shank to reach the remainder of the screw in the chuck body.

Cut off the excess shank, place in your lathe chuck/collet and drill the largest through hole without weakening too much the bolt shank.

Providing the hole is big enough to accept a 0.6/1.0 MIG wire or even a 1.6/2.5 welding rod with a bit of insulation on it (the reason for the insulation is to provide positioning ease without premature arcing, probably some very small plastic tubing (windsreen washer pipe)).

If the previous procedure is attainable, insert the insulated welding medium into the hollow bolt and with a gloved hand position onto the broken screw and weld the hollow bolt to it.

I would think the heat shock would hopefully loosen the seized screw.

Hope that may be of help.

Edited By Bernard Wright on 12/04/2020 17:29:54

Edited By Bernard Wright on 12/04/2020 17:32:12

They look like drive trips off a machine with a movable table ie. milling machine or engraver...

Hi, have you tried Tracey Tools in Torquay, they often have non-standard items, usual disclaimer.

Hi Ian,

Pleased to hear you managed to accomplish a sound repair, did you use a tap, or did you thread cut with a ground up tip.

I bought a 6Tpi Acme insert, only to find it needed a bar bigger than the root diameter of the blank, at 6Tpi they go on to 22mm tips as opposed to others at 16mm, bugga.

I do intend to sort it, but other things are in the way at the moment.

I would appreciate pics, might just give me the spur on.

Regards,

Bernard.

Hi Ian,

Sadly I've done nowt with the Buma, I moved to Scunny May 2017, and I'm struggling to find everything.

Doing other jobs for myself that needed fixtures or mandrels, became a real chore, especially upon finding stuff I'd already done, after making bits anew.

Also I'm a bit limited doing recreational machining, as my Wife is really suffering with Osteoarthritis in her left hip, being her hubby I'm also her Carer, so the learning curve seems like a Mandlebrot.

I started making a universal dividing head for my Clarkson, but it is taking damned weeks, again everything seems to be a 10:1 job, but I've plenty of time.....

Regards,

Bernard