Here is a list of all the postings Simon Collier has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: Stuck chuck |
21/06/2016 02:41:57 |
Found a UN thread gauge; it fits better than Whitworth, so definitely 60 degrees on spindle nose. |
21/06/2016 00:49:15 |
It's off! I did sleep badly, but this morning I read the posts first thing, and tried Hopper's method with a bit of wood, 1-1/2 x 1-1/2 soft wood 3 or 4' long. The wood sprung, taking the load, then the chuck just turned. So thanks Hopper and thanks all for your thoughts and ideas. Never seize will be applied! I checked the spindle thread once the chuck was off. My 8G Whitworth thread gauge was a perfect fit, although it is 55 degrees. The spindle thread is specified as 1-1/2 x 8 USS (obsolete but usual US 60 degrees, I think). I am, therefore quite confused about this. The chucks are UK made, the 4 jaw is Burnerd cat #1548-16080, if that means anything to anybody. |
20/06/2016 12:29:53 |
Well I tried the shock/inertia method, with square bar in the jaws, and a large spanner on the bar, then hit with hammer, in low gear. Nothing. I am getting really worried now. I only screwed it on very recently. It came with the lathe so I don't see how it could be incompatible. It screwed on easily. Who invented screwed chucks anyway! What a stupid idea. I am about to go to bed with this problem swirling around in my dreams, if I can get to sleep that is. Bazyle, if a 3 MT icicle is not as describled by "not done it yet" above, what is it please? |
20/06/2016 10:40:03 |
The 3 jaw I took off had been on it for years and it came off easily. The stuck 4 jaw has no backplate. It is a thin bodied, directly threaded type in beautiful condition, probably unused. Yes I'm in Sydney, and thanks HTH, I have just read that post. I'll try the inertia method with a large shifter on a bit of square bar and failing that, I might make an expanding collet to go in the plain bore of the rear of the spindle bore, rather than risk damaging the spindle 3M taper. |
20/06/2016 08:57:10 |
I am new to screw on chucks as my only lathe until recently has cam lock chucks. I cannot get the 4 jaw chuck off a Hercus 9" lathe, even though I only put it on a week ago, and only then to see how it looked! I have applied as much leverage against the back gears as I dare and I can see no way of locking or spraging the spindle. I have searched this forum, and Google, and there are several ideas, most of which I don't like. I don't want to damage the chuck or break gear teeth, obviously. |
Thread: Another sandgroper from Perth |
07/06/2016 21:21:08 |
There are a couple of clubs in Perth (WA). They have even hosted the annual AALS convention. I am self taught from an unrelated work background. With books, magazines and the internet, anything is possible. |
Thread: Traction Engines in oz/nz |
01/06/2016 08:15:20 |
There is a 3" Alchin builders' group, I think, in Victoria. I think they have castings available. |
Thread: Just getting started in Brisbane Qld. |
26/04/2016 10:45:40 |
Stainless is good for rods but harder to machine and mild steel is just fine and what nearly everybody uses. Cast iron cylinders are cheaper and can take proper piston rings but lubrication is more critical. With bronze, you would use Viton O rings or traditional soft packing like graphited yarn. Sheet steel for most things but brass for tender tanks and side tanks. Brass or stainless for boiler cladding. Steel is cheaper, stronger and takes paint better. |
Thread: John Wildings Weight driven Wall Clock |
26/04/2016 10:30:59 |
Thank you Michael. OK, three of the gear wheels with the pointy teeth, although having just gone out and looked, only one of them has a pallet. The other two, on the outside of a plate, have pawls. |
26/04/2016 07:19:50 |
Thanks all, but way too complicated. This clock has strikes and a choice of chime tunes. Now that I know what an escapement looks like, I could see 3 of them. I took it out of the case years ago to check it out, but just put it aside. The steel bit are probably rusty now. I ought to give it away. |
25/04/2016 22:39:20 |
What sort of oil does one use? If the answer is "clock oil", what is it please? Also, is there a description somewhere online about how to clean and oil a clock motion? |
Thread: David Piddington's Vise |
14/04/2016 01:21:58 |
It has become apparent to me that some of the companies that supply the hobby simply refuse to respond to emails. One wonders, therefore, why they give email addresses at all. |
Thread: Are there problems at Steam Fittings? |
23/03/2016 05:59:07 |
I'll try another email. They could even be on holidays, I suppose. |
22/03/2016 06:49:34 |
Friends and I often buy stuff from Steam Fittings, but when I went to order recently, clicking on the rest of the world flags on the web site, it returned an error. I have emailed about 4 times over the last couple of weeks with no reply. Also, a friend says his orders have been taking longer recently and that they have "gone off". Does anyone know if there is illness or something? I know UK suppliers go to exhibitions and are thus unavailable at times. |
Thread: Ejectors Help Needed |
20/03/2016 22:18:27 |
Ejectors have not been very well covered. There is a design in Derek Brown's book on injectors. Martin Evans also gave a design in his book, but it didn't work for me. I'll try the Brown one soon and I bet it will work perfectly. |
Thread: Model Engineer – Editorial direction |
14/03/2016 21:45:22 |
Interesting that Clive's comment comes now, as I just received issue 4529, and it is about the most disappointing issue for me in ages. I just glanced through and put it aside. Picture frame? Really? I also have noted the now common, " this isn't meant to be a step by step construction series.....". I believe all the magazines have deteriorated, especially the local AME. It is now little more than a roundup of local rallies and club events. Editors can only publish what they get, and I think that the main group of model engineers, the post war cohort, has died off or are very old and are lost to the clubs and also the magazines. They won't be replaced as the world has changed so much. Yes, there are some young ones coming through, but not in numbers and certainly not from relevant trade backgrounds. |
Thread: check valves |
14/03/2016 01:10:15 |
I am aware of the need for a round hole. I can make a D bit easily but what about a slot or end mill? Hard to see how they could make a poor hole, say, drill 3.5 mm and use a 5/32 end mill? |
13/03/2016 22:06:30 |
Perhaps my sharp tap isn't sharp enough. I found and re-read the article on clacks by Gordon Smith in EIM Jan 2015. It is excellent but doesn't mention making the ball seat. His design does include a separate screwed in seat which allows the seat to be faced square with a fine finish. Thanks for the replies. I'll have a go at making one or two this week. |
13/03/2016 00:36:15 |
What type of clacks are people using, traditional ball type, o-ring seats or shuttle valve with o-ring face? I never seem to have much success making ball seats, despite all possible care, that totally seal. The same procedure produces hit and miss results. Bought ones are no better, some good, some not. I bought a set of oil and water check valves of the shuttle valve type, some time back, as yet unused, but I have heard only bad things about them. Are they any good? |
Thread: How do I get D1-4 camlock chuck apart? |
09/03/2016 19:48:58 |
There would have been cast iron dust too but most is done in the 4 jaw. I'm sure you mean "'annual' fascination". I can't really see how the gunk makes the chuck so inaccurate, especially as mine didn't have very much really. |
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
Sign up to our newsletter and get a free digital issue.
You can unsubscribe at anytime. View our privacy policy at www.mortons.co.uk/privacy
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.