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Member postings for Alan Worland

Here is a list of all the postings Alan Worland has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

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Thread: Hallam Engine
28/02/2010 21:10:24
Excellent point Martin about the tank vent - there isn't one! The only thing I will say in its defence is it runs 'naff' from the start when tank would be at atmospheric pressure.
I will however try it with the filler removed/loose and see if it makes any difference.
 
Ramon, I never knew the timing can be adjusted by moving the whole points assembly around the crankcase! I have only adjusted the timing by moving the cam on the crankshaft! Not ideal.
It does look like where my points are there was a web on the casting which has I guess been removed to enable the points to lay on top.
My plug has a 3/8 thread
 
Meyrick, does this sound like 'hunting' to you? I have only really experienced hunting on a four cylinder car engine and results in a rythmic increase and decrease in revs accompanied by a sooty exhaust. Mine sounds to me like it is running weak? My experience of 2 strokes not running correctly is when they appear to mis a few ignition strokes and sound like they are '8 stroking'
I am not sure how this engine could hunt? Surely if the needle valve was unscrewed to allow more fuel in this would mean bigger bangs which would put the speed up and draw more air in?
I will have another go tomorrow.
27/02/2010 21:38:34
Hi Ramon
 
I think our posts have crossed!
 
I attempted to put some photos up - didn't work, but I believe if you click on them you will get there!
I remember file marks on my piston crown as well
Shame about the plug - mine is a Champion Y-5, don't suppose they are still available.
Do you believe your piston is the right way round?

Edited By Alan Worland on 27/02/2010 21:40:14

27/02/2010 21:11:41
Crikey guys - lets not start a fight!! I have no immediate plans to build anything to use this engine, it just started as a little project to get an antique engine  to run and went from there!
I think your comment Chris about oil/petrol mix is quite interesting, my son ran 2 stroke bikes for a while and the ratio you suggest rings a bell.
I have measured the stroke of the engine and it measures the 'stroked' 1 inch
Further investigation has revealed what I think is a major fault - the points cam breaks at 11 degrees BTDC, BUT, the cam only allows the points to close for a duration of 48 degrees - so for the rest of the cycle the points are open with the coil not 'on'
I would have thought the cam should have had the coil 'on' for the cycle only breaking when required for the spark?
Anyway while I was measuring the timing (piece of masking tape around the flywheel) I took note of other timing events
 
Piston starts to clear the exhaust port at 127 degrees ATDC
Piston starts to uncover inlet venturi at 43 degrees BTDC
Piston fully covers inlet venturi at 43 degrees ATDC
Dont know if these figures are what might be expected
 
Really interesting with regard to the catalogue - would love a scan of it?
Your engine looks pretty similar to mine although I note the points on mine are on top and yours are on the side of the crankcase and my fuel tank appears larger - can you appreciate the timing is not that easy to adjust accurately?
With regard to the oil in the mix I can only be guided by those with more experience than myself, I used 2 stroke oil because it is a 2 stroke!
Here are some photos of the culprit!
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Edited By Alan Worland on 27/02/2010 21:19:37

27/02/2010 00:09:28
Fantastic news! I have a Hallam 60!  Wonder what the 60 refers to? Older than I thought.
Did your friend buy them/make them?  If as you are suggesting it is an aircraft engine I guess the flywheel was put on to make it 'complete', seems strange as it is threaded onto the crank and I get the impression it keeps the cam in place (which is only secured by a small grubscrew) I take it his engines are not fitted with flywheels.
At present it has a 12 X 6 prop fitted
When I said the exhaust was dripping, I meant dripping with oil - it was a very oily mix. I used 2 stroke oil, are you suggesting that another oil type is used? Sounds like a thick engine oil.
How would you start this engine, could/should it start by hand?
An aircraft I have in the loft which hasn't seen the light of day for many years has a spring starter, where the end of a coiled spring is wrapped round the blade and 'wound up' then released to give one or two compression cycles.
Enjoy your research! and thanks again.

Edited By Alan Worland on 27/02/2010 00:10:04

Thread: Myford Collet Chuck
26/02/2010 22:09:37
I have a metric and imperial set of 'far eastern' collets, absolute bargain, got a set for what I would have paid for one! and yes I would have preferred Myford sets but I have been very pleased with the accuracy of them.
Good luck with the sale!
Thread: Hallam Engine
26/02/2010 22:03:53
Thanks for your continued efforts, it is much appreciated!
It was running a very oily mix which virtually dripped from the exhaust! I seem to rmember mixing about a 30% oil mix.
I believe the engine is 'home made' possibly from a set of castings? and perhaps the port timing is not correct.
Initially I never gave it a thought that it could be for a car, but I suppose the flywheel gives it away! I fitted the prop to enable cooling.
25/02/2010 23:15:47
Thanks Ramon, I have no history of the engine, its just been in the family for years.
It would be great to get hold of some history and a copy of the original drawings - a quick pop out to the garage and I measured the venturi at 5mm. I am not sure what you mean by spray bar, the 'throttle' is basically a pointed needle valve which when unscrewed opens up fuel flow from its seat - is this what you mean?
Thread: Elbow Engine
25/02/2010 22:45:45
Fantastic! I have never seen anything like it, it runs so smoothly, is it designed to run on steam?
Thread: Hallam Engine
25/02/2010 22:43:49
I think I had visions of it bursting into life and tearing itself off the bench!
I will, as suggested, run it in as is and go from there.
Thanks to everybody
Thread: Adverts over the top of postings
25/02/2010 22:40:35
Me too! - Pain in the a@@!
Thread: ED Racer 'times two'
25/02/2010 20:27:16
Nice work and good progress, I suppose the time it takes to setup - you might as well make more than one!
Years ago at a model engineering exhibition there was a chap who was making five 71/4 in gauge locos! He said as it took most of the time setting it all up he thought he would get the most out of it!
Thread: Hallam Engine
25/02/2010 20:15:56
Thanks for your response(s)! I enjoyed having it running. It would appear the speed is controlled by fuel flow valve, and virtually any attempt to move it from its setting will cause the engine to die - it is a one speed engine!
Ignition timing is adjusted by releasing a grubscrew on the cam, and moving it! a bit crude. Any guidance on what the timing might be? The Morris coil is ok then?
I did measure the bore and stroke, hence 10cc but can't remember what it was but I think the stroke was longer than the bore.
It was running very oily as I believe the engine had never been run and I thought it might help to give it an easier time!
I don't think it could be started at all by hand - I used the drill to get the engine to its 'running speed' whereby it seems able to maintain it itself, strange
It is a piston port engine, would the air intake benefit from a large radius to help air movement? Tuned inlet trumpet, how would I work out what's needed?
If a larger prop was fitted would that help - I would like it to have a nice 'slow' tickover, it has a reasonable flywheel to help.
24/02/2010 21:37:11
I had passed down to me many years ago a single cylinder engine which I believe was made by a great uncle many years ago (early 50's?)
Anyway it has been in a drawer ever since, and sometime ago I dismantled it, cleaned and oiled it up (with 2 stroke oil) put it back together and using the coil off my Morris managed to get it to run - please see video
 
 
My question is, does anyone recognise the engine and any idea why it wont operate at any other speed than what you see? Trying to alter the speed will cause it to stop! It was running a very oily mix of unleaded and 2 stroke oil - is it a petrol engine?
Thread: Stuart Turner Sun Engine
12/02/2010 20:16:23
Yes, these were indeed 'the good old days' gone forever, never to return - just get worse!
11/02/2010 23:23:12
My Dad used to tell a story when in his youth about his Dad. Apparently gunpowder was ready available for purchase and my Grandad had this idea of setting a small charge in the hearth to 'clean the chimney', well the charge was lit which went off with more 'whoof' than required removing brickwork from the chimney breast and covering the room in debris!
The story goes than Nan wasn't best pleased - can't imagine why!!
10/02/2010 23:29:19
You can keep your ducks - I'm having my boat in the bath!
Bathtime went well, engine runs like a dream, tied to the taps I was able to run full power at 45 psi and with the burner turned up the pressure was rising. The burner for the test puposes is my Sievert equipment with a 24kw burner! I need to install an onboard butane/propane supply and find a suitable burner - preferably one which burns quietly!
The only problem I found was with the universal joint, it runs at quite an angle and clatters away like a goodun, I have a 'proper' small universal joint which I will be installing next
I think your description of mousse is pretty well bang on! After any runs I am draining the oil - read mousse, and maintaining the engine in a warm state to dry out any moisture, although I find the whole engine is very hot and probably shouldn't take long.
Needless to say say after an hours steaming I had to remove the oilslick from the bath!
Thread: Bending steel tube
07/02/2010 22:38:52
Hi Mike,
 
I have bent smaller steel tube by filling it with copper wires
from cable - it seemed to work quite well.
Used also to be done in the old days by filling with sand
 
Alan

Edited By David Clark 1 on 22/02/2010 15:00:38

Thread: Parallel Turning
06/02/2010 23:29:50
I have recently moved my Myford to paint the cabinet and remove all the swarf that had collected 'down the back' - couldn't believe it!
I found this very awkward and top heavy.
I have made  small 'skates' for each foot. Each foot now has 2 wide nylon wheels to enable the lathe to be 'rolled' out - when in position bolts are screwed down through the new skates onto the concrete floor for staabilisation and leveling - seems to work well
Anyway after all this I checked for twist in the bed and managed to do the lathe feet up with about .00025 twist, measured over a 18 inch bar. The lathe bed feet are in fact pieces of 10mm studding nutted into the top of the cabinet so the lathe bed is 'elevated' above the cabinet by a couple of inches, this enables the bed fixing positions to have a nut/washer top and bottom and makes for simple setting.
Turning a 9 inch length of bar between centres I found the tailstock end to be 3 or 4 thou larger than the headstock end. After about an hour of adjustment and taking a few thou off I have now got this down to about .0005 over a 7 1/2 turned length - is this a typical figure?
The lathe is an ML7 bought in the early 50's but well looked after.
Thread: Stuart Turner Sun Engine
06/02/2010 23:02:15
Thanks for your input Neil.
I have already investigated the 'splasher option' but there is only about 2mm clearance from bigends to crankcase base! I decided this wasn't going to happen.
I have made a new breather which is now much taller with a larger bore and a mushroom shaped top, under the rim of the top I have 3 small bore holes at 120 degrees drilled up at 40 degrees to meet the bore.
I have also fitted 'O' ring seals to the main bearings.
This afternoon I have had steam up.
With 15cc of steam oil in the sump this gives about 3mm dip of the bigends, and I am pleased to report that it is now oil tight!
It was running for about an hour and even when loaded and working hard (by me gripping the flywheel!) there was only slight wisps of steam from the breather.
Drainng the oil while hot immediately after running I found the oil was well churned up and moisture present, in fact I would consider that the level would rise with running due to moisture?
Anyway, bathtime next! complete with 'oil slick' round the bath!
28/01/2010 13:04:05
Just had my Sun engine running, and it sounds lovely - like a sewing machine!
Not knowing how much oil to put in the 'sump' I put enough in to allow the big ends to dip into the oil, so it must be pretty oily in there. I have oil leaks from front and rear main bearings, which is sealable with 'O' rings, but there is obviously steam leakage past the pistons which tends to blow oil out of my 'breather' the result is quite a mess!
Not sure what sort of breathing device I need (the sump has 2 holes about 1/4 dia, one has a dipstick in the other a vented plug)
I believe originally the engine was supplied with these holes open. I fitted the dipstick so I knew how much oil was in it and made the vented plug to basically fill the hole with something that wouldn't let the dirt in but would still allow the escape of leaked steam - which it does but is carrying a lot of oil with it. It's ok running up to probably about 700/800 rpm.
Have any of you wisened fellows any experience of running this engine and it's oil and breathing requirements?
 
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