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Member postings for gerry madden

Here is a list of all the postings gerry madden has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Anecdotes 2
23/01/2013 16:39:00

The other way of putting very fine radii on components (such as bearing rollers and raceways) is to plunge-grind them using a grinding wheel that has been dressed at an angle to its axis. A staight cut made this way will infact produce a parabola but it's as near as dammit a radius and was always described as such. Inspection of a surface made in this way was done by simply measuring the 'drop' at a given distance with precision gauges. No one attempted to prove it was actually a radius, or even a parabola as there weren't many other shapes it could be.

Gerry.

Thread: Grinding lathe tools
18/07/2012 15:10:12

Thanks all for your interesting input to this thread. I am 90% of the way through making an HH rest and soon to be thinking about wheels and motors. Just one point I have not seen mentioned.... what does one use to dress a diamond wheel ? Does the fact that they have metal location bores mean that runout is less and therefore dressing not necessary ?

Gerry

Thread: gib strips
27/05/2012 20:17:46

In lathe and mill slides there is often a tendency to get slightly tight and loose spots which must be due to the normal geometric inaccuracies of the mating parts. Adjustment of the gib strips doesnt really solve this. Removing any slackness just results in increased friction elsewhere because there is no compliance (or very little) in the structure. So Im wondering, why aren't the gibstrip adjustment screws made with some built in compliance to help them ride over the 'tight spots' ? I was thinking that the grub-screws could be drilled and fitted with short length of plastic rod to create a kind of spring preload effect ? Any thoughts on this ?

Thread: aluminium for gears
27/05/2012 19:57:04

Thanks all for your comments and apologies for taking so long to reply. There dont seem to be any major risks so I will give it a try.

As for the anodising, I thought I may try to do it myself - there was an article on it in MEW. Keeping the current low gives a fine finish. I dont plan to use any lubricant in the finished product and hope that the anodic coating will prevent scuffing and keep the friction down. But as one of you said, I need to avoid small machining ridges on the teeth or they will create high localised stresses.

Regards

Gerry

05/05/2012 17:08:17

Chaps,

I plan to make a clock at some stage and hope to incorporate some ideas of my own. One is to use aluminium for the gears. I have not seen this suggested before. Are there good reasons not to do this ?

I can think of positives (light weight, easy machining, cost) but only one negative and that is the potential for wear. However to counteract this, I was thinking of anodising. This will give a coating harder than the steel and will reduce friction as well.

But I have probably forgotten something obvious and would appreciate your thoughts.

Gerry

Thread: What cutting tools for mini - lathe (HSS or Carbide Tipped ?)
14/02/2012 14:04:51
Chaps,
 
I recently delved into indexible tooling and bought some of the gold and silver coloured tips from AET. The gold ones were claimed suitable for hard ferous materials whilst the silver ones were stated as suitable for brass and aluminium. I tried both on a variety of materials. I always cut dry as I cant be bothered with the mess of cuting fluids. But I am fussy about finish.
 
The gold ones worked ok in some situations and were not too bad on others. However the silver ones are simply fantastic. Steels, plastics (in addition to brass and alum.) can be cut quickly and effectively with a very good finish and without undue cutting forces.
 
I think that the performance of the silver ones is due to the fact that they are very sharp as they have been ground (after moulding) to a perfect edge. You can cut your fingers on them if you are careless ! I cant comment on their wear life yet but I occasionally inspect them under a microscope and dont see any wear at all so far so I think they will last quite well. But they are for sure fragile. Whilst peering under the mic I did see a small built-up edge. I tried to pick it off with a watch makers screwdriver and before I realised it I had put 3 chips on that beautiful ground edge. Clearly they dont like any force in the wrong direction. Despite the 3 chips they still seem to work well ! I have to say Im a total convert on this particlar tool tip material and its now my 'standard'.
 
Gerry
 
 
Thread: flatness of faceplate ?
21/01/2012 12:27:30
Gentlemen, what is it they say, the taste of poor quality lasts a long time after the pleasure of a low price fades ! I have a decent lathe but decided the makers own faceplate was faaaaar too expensive. So I bought a surprisingly cheap one - almost too cheap to even bother sending back. So I live and learn, again !
 
Thank you all for your comments which have been quite both helpful and enlightening. I suppose its not often I will need to use the whole 160mm face so in the mean time I can just skim a little each time to get a flat and true 'working' area.
 
And I see also now that its not particularly thick (about 10mm) compared to others so it may have a quite limited life and be simply unsuitable for bigger tasks. But at least now, thanks to you, I know the characteristics I need to look for and appreciate what Im paying for when I buy my next one.
 
Gerry
20/01/2012 20:42:05
But to make this faceplate nominally flat all the way across its 160mm diameter I will have to skim 1mm from two thirds of face. Thats not so much a 'skim' as a significant machining operation !
 
Im not sure if this cambering is deliberate/normal or accidental.
20/01/2012 20:15:07
Ive just bought a cast iron faceplate. I bolted it on the the spindle and checked the runout in several places. This was fine. But as I wasnt intending to use it I started to remove it. Suddenly I noticed that it didnt seem to be totally flat. On more careful inspection I have now found that the last 20mm or so of its radius is cambered off (in the headstock direction) by about 1mm. Is this normal ?
Thread: Storage of precision levels
24/12/2011 12:30:33
I have a 1970s aircraft periscopic sextant. The original case has two big red labels. One shows the orientation for 'airplane stowage' and the other for 'ground stowage'. The latter is horizontal. I always wondered why....
 
Gerry
Thread: Number Drill Sets & Ba Tap sets
12/12/2011 15:02:59
Taps and dies supplied by one source (if my memory is correct) are claimed to be made in "HQS" (high quality steel?). Does anyone know what material specification is actually used ?
 
Gerry
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