Member postings for Mark Rand

Same thread as peugeot 405 brake caliper bleed screws. Don't ask me how I foud out .

I have some spares from PeWe because I ordered them when I needed a few new toolholders to replace some of the 1952 originals...

Agree to both.

I got the new belt some time ago because there was a fibre obviously sticking out from the original. Easily seen on this saw, since the original owner had dropped something heavy on the saw and ended up cutting the end off the belt guard, presumably because it was buggered. One of the plastic wheels was knackered as well, so it's now got 3 plastic wheels and one solid aluminium one.

I thought that the AX belt would be better because of the small size of the step pulleys' smallest sheaves. Ah well, live and learn. I might even get around to bending up a new end for the belt guard and TIGing it on one of these years...

Beavers use a pair of angular a pair of contact ball bearings at the bottom and a deep groove ball bearing at the top.

There should be no vertical play at all. Once you've got the quill out. Adjust the nuts until there is slightly more resistance to rotation than in the 'floppy' state and you should be good to go. Take the opportunity to grease the bearings at the same time. Not sure about the Mk2, but on the Mk1 there's a grease port on the side of the quill that takes a hemispherical/conical grease gun tip like the ones on this page

As noted before, if the mill now makes a roaring/hissing noise in the higher speeds, that's an indication that the bearings are beyond their best before dates.

Owning and maintaining a 1960's or earlier machine is an exercise in engineering that the youf of today rarely encounter. Good for the soul and part of "growing up and being British"

Edited By Mark Rand on 22/09/2023 23:40:47

probalbly the spaces in the file name.If the browser is forced to use Gurgle to search perfectly honest URLs you've entered, then it treats them as a search expression rather than a address.

Fixed the URL to **LINK**

I have a machineMart/Clarke 7"x12" bandsaw in the shed. I bought it second hand via fleabay as an upgrade to the 4"x6" that I'd bought new. It has done good service since I had it, but had/has a few issues. Earlier on this week, while tracking down a problem with the NVR switch (checked the two 'safety cut out' microswitches and eventually found a spade connector on the switch itself, that had a bad contact, overheated and relaxed the female half of the connection. Pliers sorted this|) I decided that I should get around to changing the worn out belt for the replacement that I bought a couple of years ago. First thing was to align the motor and saw pulleys, which were about 1/8" out of line with each other. Then I fitted the 'new' AX650 belt to replace the badgered A650 belt. The reason for getting an AX (cogged) belt was that the pulleys are too small for an A sized belt and the cogged belt would last better...

Today I was cutting up a number of pieces from 6mm x 200mm steel plate to make the bits of a box that will be welded together. When the bandsaw blade got to about half the width of the material, the saw started chattering horribly. I've cut 12"/300mm steel with this saw before and not encountered this.

A scan of the Interwebs indicated loose blade or loose belt. I tightened the blade as much as I could (not much, it was already set properly). No difference. The belt was running hot, so I tightened the belt to a worryingly high amount (bearing load). No difference.

Eventually, I tried putting the old, wrapped, belt back instead of the new 'improved' cogged belt. Problem went away, even with lower belt tension.

The cogged belt should have been stronger than the wrapped belt and slipped less. I can only guess that the wrapped belt was better at damping vibration.

Got to order a new A650 belt now

Edited By Mark Rand on 22/09/2023 23:05:23

On pronunciation:-

Tthere's Cisester (spelt Cirencester), where the daughter lived or, from my teenage years in Devon, Bovey Tracy ("'Tes Buvvy, my luvver"'. Before that, from my childhood in (King's) Lynn we've got 'Windam' (spelled Wymondham).

If English were simple she wouldn't be so useful/flexible.

And:-

Quote <the Internet>
English doesn’t “borrow” from other languages: it follows them down dark alleys, knocks them over, and goes through their pockets for loose grammar and valuable vocabulary.
/Quote

Tony at lathes.co.uk has (for a slightly eyewatering price, but he has to make a living) a set of documents, that include assorted user manuals, maintenance instructions and sales brochures.

In the meantime if you head to to the server in my workshop, you can find:-
VBRP Mk2 manual.pdf

On pages 24 and 25 you can see parts 52 and 53, which are the nut and lock nut that control the spindle's angular contact bearing clearance/pre-load.

Page 39 gives instructions to remove the quill to get at these nuts.

Note:- if the mill makes a 'roaring' sound that gets worse with invreasing speed, it tends to indicate that the spindle bearings are shot. It's possible to puzzle out how to ged the spindle out of the quill and inspect the bearings from the diagrams. Hopefully, the nut and locknut have just vibrated loose

Edited By Mark Rand on 21/09/2023 23:45:35

I guess that if folk prefer to pronounce it 'jib', they should probably spell it that way as well...

I quite like the arrangement of the last (fifth) one. The way that the extra set of pivoting legs restrains the table in the second axis with fewer parts than the secong and third ones.

Still complex, but clever.

Oops, I meant your other thread :-

Play in new arbour for mill

But ignore that, since Jason has moved the conversation to this one.

Edited By Mark Rand on 20/09/2023 09:32:42

To add to Pete's post:- Set the speed to the highest possible (it is a variable speed Mk2 VBRP, not the step-pulley version isn't it?). This will make the spindle easier to turn by hand. If it's still too much (shouldn't be) then it is acceptable to use an adjustable spanner on the driving dogs at the bottom of the taper. Shouldn't need that though.

Also check whether you can move the spindle from side to side with firm hand pressure. Best to do that with the arbor in, to give you something to grab hold of. If you can get the mag base to stick to the side of the quill and indicate any movement of the spindle from there, that would be a definitive maker for loose (not necessarily buggered) bearings.

Best to keep the questions, answers and comments in this thread, that way people can see all of the detail in one place. There is another thread "all things beaver mill" on the forum. That might be good for a read through if you haven't found it yet. It's got a fair collection of problems, solutions and wisdom on all things Beaver in it. There are a slack handful of other Beaver related threads that the forum search will find as well, for background reading.

Edited By Mark Rand on 19/09/2023 21:17:57

Edited By JasonB on 20/09/2023 08:45:24

By the way, to original poster Antony:- You've definitely earned a 'You Suck' for getting your hands on a 40 taper Beaver, even if it should turn out to need a rebuild at this point in its life.

Edited By Mark Rand on 17/09/2023 12:20:21

I think I must be getting old before my time (at 65 probably just getting old!).

I get more and more irritated with changes to English as she were spoken a few decades back. Don't get me started on the (lack of) quality of proof reading on the BBC's web sites and news scripts.

I would like to humbly point out that the plural of radius is radii. Please don't encourage the cult of Noah Webster!

Was that the new, black, round tins or the old, blue, oblong tins?

I bought another litre (two tins) just after they carried out the redesign. They went from the familiar rectangular blue tins with applicatorspout to a round black tin. Unfortunately, when they arrived, there were no applicator spouts. I contacted their customer support folk and was told that there had been some problems getting the plastic spouts. I don't know if they have fixed this problem yet. I'm still decanting the stuff from the new tins into the old one at the moment.

I've even used Libreoffice Draw to open (microsoft) Visio files. It does as good a job as the current version of Visio i.e. less than perfect for either .

With the aid of a large spring, or possibly a compressed air cylinder, one could also 'dispose' of pidgeons, grey squirrels and other vermin.

Open up the AVG interface often there's a button in the notification area at the bottom right of the screen.

Go to the menu in the top right of the interface.

Go to Settings

Go to Exceptions

Add an exceptionfor the address that it's blocking.

That'll get you working again.

Avast has had a few false positives over the last month or two...