Member postings for Mark Rand

I've only ever seen green (chromium III, Chromites ets.) colouration when using a stainless anode, not red/orange (chromium VI, the dangerous one, including Chromates).

Along those lines:- If you use lead anodes with washing soda, you will get lead carbonate (white lead) deposited in the tank.

Edited By Mark Rand on 11/05/2022 17:16:21

I had a Hardinge HLV cross slide feed screw with a square thread!

I think that you'll find that it makes bugger all difference. The feedscrew will have worn to something slightly different anyway.

Just sign up for an account via the login link on their web page.Think I've had an RS account for about 25 years, even though it's quite rare that I buy anything.

Number 4 Thury 0.1425" 3.62mm OD 38.7tpi 0.656mm Pitch

Maybe?

^^^^^ Oops!

In the UK it never was analog. It was analogue.

Just a shield will probably do the job.

Ideal solution is a bloody great dust extractor on the linisher.

The answer to the lowered apron on (non power feed cross slide) Myfords is to mill an appropriate amount off the top of the apron.

As I said. Use a razor blade, it'll pop the particles off with little effort.

Scraping would probably be better than this form of lapping, but it does presuppose the possesion of a surface plate.

For cleaning the diamond particles off, push a sharp razor blade* over the surface at an angle of about 30° positive rake. It'll pop the particles off fairly well. That's the way I clean laps when changing grits.

*single edge blades are pretty safe to handle. Doeble edge ones need a bit more care.

When I put a VFD on mine, I used a 3/4hp motor, so that splits the difference. If the lathe's got the upgraded hardened mandrel with bronze bearings (mine has), it'll easily handle 1hp and 1500rpm.

The nozzles are a very simple design with gas or air being admitted at the centre and air or gas being admitted via an annular hole, with both mixing in the nozzle's tube. I've just checked mine and it appears that the aluminium shroud which retains the nozzle has actually got a small radial clearance between itself and the end of the nozzle.

It's probable that the reason for this is to avoid heating the shroud, but it does leave the possibility of drilling a small radial hole into the end portion of the nozzle to allow a leak of mixture to exit via this radial gap. That would act as a flame control ring.

I've got too many other pots on the boil at the moment (See what I did there? ) But when I get the round-tuit recommissioned, I might try such a modification on a copy of a burner nozzle. That's much simpler than the design I had originally considered.

When I rebuild the Beaver mill I didn't bother scraping the sheears of the T slots, so I don't trust them to be absolutely in line with the X axis. Thus, I always indicate the fixed jaw of the vice in whenever I put a vice on the machine. I'm not convinced that a dowel would give me any useful improvement when using a vice with the rotary base.

Mine is a MkII Stone-Chance variety.

The one in the Labs at work was the more modern version with a flame control ring on the burner.

If it is, they don't normally get on all that well with gas/air. They were designed for coal/town gas rather than natural gas or propane. Gas/oxygen works better. Either that or a redesigned burner* with flame retention features.

* It's on my project list.

Something is very wrong here.

I would say right off the bat, that the outrigger support cantilevered from the thread dial indicator stud is so flimsy that you cannot hope to get meaningful readings. It's susceptible to drag from the cable and friction from the shield all amplified by the twisting of the long cantilevered anluminium angle with a single point of location at the top.

Try remounting the head directly to the apron casting. Also, Get some of M-DRO's aluminium sopport extrusion and screw it to the bed at 150mm/6" intervals, like it's designed to be. When doing that, use shims, to ensute that the clearance is constant.

You don't say who supplied the head and the tape, but I've found the M-DRO tape and 1µm magnetic heads to be excellent, when properly mounted. Below is the Y axix on my mill:-

Michael:- I'll have to look through the MEW indices. I've got all the magazines, except for a few early ones. The link was to the thread where I was asking about an odd size spanner that I needed when servicing the engraver. If you mean the '/'' at the start of the second line, I grafted those tomatoes onto a Protector rootstock.

Bob:- the keyboard is a bit foul. Now that you've brought my attention to it, I guess I'll have to wash, dry and iron it.

Ajax:- It's Traffolyte.

Edited By Mark Rand on 22/04/2022 10:10:59

I finally got around to using the Taylor Hobson engraver mentioned in this thread.

I made some labels for the tomato plants in the greenhouse border. Need to do some work on cutter sharpening, but I'm starting to get the hang of driving the engraver itself.

Edited By Mark Rand on 21/04/2022 21:19:55

I need to start a shopping list...