Member postings for Jens Eirik Skogstad

The Cox engines had cylinder and piston who was cyanid case hardened while the parts of piston who had layer of copper was not hardened. Not possible in a model engineer shop since cyanid case hardening is poison..

Edited By Jens Eirik Skogstad on 28/10/2018 21:05:33

I has installed the new 2 hp/1500 watt electric motor - 2700 rpm with only 1 condenser (The old motor 1,5 hp/1100 watt - 1400 rpm with 2 condenser). It works much better and i do not need set too high gear (pulley and belt) to keep same speed. Also it's less load on the engine for same spindle revolution. Less hot motor house.

The VFD + motor is not cheap for me.. 

Edited By Jens Eirik Skogstad on 30/08/2018 16:42:00

Module 1 is very easy to remember when you are creating the blank gearwheel also if you want to make 50 teeth gearwheel, then add 2 extra to 50 teeth will be 52 mm blank gear wheel (formula: (2+Z) x Module) and height of tooth is 2,25 mm. Module 1 is same as 3,1416 mm (PI) .  

Edited By Jens Eirik Skogstad on 30/08/2018 16:33:32

There is a lot of specifications of inverters, how can i select the right inverter if i select the motor at 1,1 KW 3 phase motor? And is variable revolution better when i want to select the required revolution via inverter?

Thanks! I must take a look at the homepage and find what they sell the 3 phase and VFD set.

The spindle move free without hard points, same with other ball bearings in motor and the middle pulley without belt. The belt was not tightened for hard. Suspect that there are problems with centrifugal start switching inside the motor. The motor was new, ran a few hours before the start capacitor died out. Switched to a new start capacitor with the same capacity. The engine has 2 capacitors - start capacitor and running capacitor. And worked well in a few minutes before it ended, as I described in the first message. The condensers were not burned or developed smoke. Smoke came from the motor. A short life motor.

There is nothing wrote about running-in the motor or run the motor in 30 minutes before use, also not all is wrote in instruction created by chinese factory.

I read some of them in commends recommend 3 phase motor + VFD. Will it cost more than a new motor? Better in torque? I am thinking to replace with a 3 phase motor + VFD. Do you have a link?

Hi folks! I has used the milling machine at low speed (belts at low revolution) when i created gearwheel without problem. But the electric motor at 1,1 kW can't last more and burn up when i drilled the hole with 1 mm drill at high speed (belts at the highest revolution at 2050 rpm). Is it common problem with chinese electric motor?

Before i installed the 16 ampere fuse and 2,5 mm2 wiring to tool room where the milling machine is standing there, the 10 ampere fuse burst each time when i set the milling machine at high speed at 2050 rpm then i think the electric motor is too big for 10 ampere quick fuse. But not fact, there is some fault inside the electric motor since the house is hot. I learned out the belt gearing is over geared in high speed also the electric motor speed is lower than spindle speed, a weak engine who can't run the over geared belt with a load from 1 mm drill.

It's a Zhejiang ZX 30L mill/drill machine with belt.

Which electric motor can i replace? Want a reliable electric motor who can last long.

I will not repair the shitty chinese electric motor made by chinese city smith in backyard. This electric motor has taken away my pleasure to use milling machine.

The bearing size..

Single row angular contact bearing 12x32x10 SKF 7201BEP

Deep groove ball bearing 10x26x8 SKF 6000

I has made the L.C Sparey running centre from The amateur's lathe. The design is good and i am very satisfied to use the running centre in many year now.

The house is made of mild steel (no important to be cast iron, hard or high alloy) and the running cone is made of silver steel.

The bearing must be selected to nearest in all dimensions ,also change the dimension in the house and the running cone to fit the bearings.

Light press fit the bearing in the house and hand push fit the running cone into the bearing. Never light press fit the running cone into the bearing due the bearing will stuck!

Fill up grease into the house before the running cone is mounted.

25-40% canola oil mixed in the mineral oil to preventing the oil was washed away from surfaces by steam/water.

Canola oil was thickened first: warm up oil and blow up with air pressure into the oil, let it bubble until the oil is thick. It's due the oil is oxidized (with other word: rancid). The canola oil must be without antioxidants additive who are impossible to thickening the canola oil.

Glowhead? We call it hot bulb who are correct in english..

Yes, it was about 120 difference brands of hot bulb engines produced in Norway, both from factory and black smith.

About engine museum in Norway, see this map.. **LINK**

They are selling the silencer for near all Cox engines. **LINK**

Cox engine was my first engine when i flew the C/L plane due cheap to buy the engine and build own model airplane. And since i has still 4 or 5 cox engines. The Cox engine lasted long time when the engine is in god tune (not run in high revolution with dry exhaust) + after use -> "3 in1" oil in the engine.

Edited By Jens Eirik Skogstad on 21/05/2018 20:35:17

In Norway are the bolinder hot bulb engine rare used, mostly norwegian produced hot bulb/semidiesel engines. We had imported some June-Munktell semidiesel. Then i can't answer at your question.

Here is the norwegian engines who are produced in Norway. http://semidiesel.no/Hjem/generell%20historie.html

Edited By Jens Eirik Skogstad on 21/05/2018 17:38:26

I can see there is not machined valve side.. common new beginner fault..

1. Valve side machined to flat surface who are in same height as in center of bore in both sides of cylinder.

2. Set up on angle plate who are mounted on lathe and adjust center of bore and cylinder in parallel with lathe.

3. Turn flat on the cylinder side who are bottom side of cylinder then bore the cylinder to right size. Mark up this with tiny punch dot at a place where the bottom side will be (This is correct in angle between cylinder /side of cylinder to preventing galling between piston/cylinder).

4. Turn the cylinder to other side and set the parallel tool to set bottom side of cylinder is in parallel with disc on lathe then turn the side of cylinder flat who are cylinder head side.

Edited By Jens Eirik Skogstad on 24/03/2018 07:28:37