Member postings for Dalboy

Is there any reference material that tell you what metals are best for different applications IE what is best for bearings or frame plates etc

The first thing to conceder is the look of the box as previously stated do you want it to just be functional or look good and be functional.

If the first then go for the biscuit joiner if you want good looking then dovetail jig. As for the size of a dovetail jig depends on the size of the piece and the design of the box. I have both the 12" dovetail jig as well as a biscuit jointer both function very well and you can produce a strong unit with either.

Which of the two will you get the most out of in the future as like many jigs they can end up on a shelf just collecting dust.

If you have a router then a biscuit jointer router bit could also be a cheaper option but it does have its limitations over a dedicated biscuit jointer

I am new to model engineering and as of yet not set up to make even the simplest of things but still go into the shed for some woodturning mornings are great as the workshop is in the shade of a big tree. Once the afternoon arrives then it is into the house for a good book to read, and the book in question is "Model Engineering a Foundation Course" by Peter Wright.

Just out of interest is it a good book to read as I have only just started it

Green wood will clog up the teeth in no time. Also how much clean up of the surface will you want to do before burning on to the wood. So go for a coarser toothed blade.

How long will you be leaving the branches before cutting as a rough guide it takes 1 year for every inch of thickness

If you have the use of a bandsaw then personally that would be my preferred option to cut them. Also another thing not to do with cutting is that as the wood dries depending on the wood it may all split. Grain is another factor when burning so check the branches to see if it is a close grained wood

I use quite a bit of green wood and also do a little pyrography

Edited By Derek Lane 2 on 01/07/2018 14:05:02

I keep loosing the chuck key for the pillar drill only to realise that I brought some rare earth magnets and attached it to the pillar drill to keep the key safe.

A few the woodworkers use

**LINK**

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I have always used Tuffsaws but as you say they do not supply on the roll

I came in on another post and should have come here first. Normally I frequent the sister forum Getwoodworking and mainly build wooden items like turning and model/toy making. I also write for the Woodworker magazine on occasions. Even though I use to have a metal working lathe but sold that a few years ago and now regret having done so. I want to incorporate some metal work into some of my turning and even possibly get another lathe as well as a milling machine.

I may even eventually make some live steam models after some, well plenty of practice in using the machine once I have set up. I also know that the lathe and milling machine is only the iceberg a bit like woodturning it is all the other little bits that are needed which can in many cases end up costing many times more than the machines.

Here was one of my later pieces just for interest. There was no metal work in this and the chassis has over 300 parts without the superstructure

Thank you for the replies I did forget to put thickness in my original post but as it was my first I could not edit it to add those.

The maximum thickness I am looking at is 1/8". I have just found a roller in an old Model engineers workshop magazine that I have.

Just out of interest I am a woodworker and these will be used for parts on some of my work. I did own a metalworking lathe but regret having sold it. And would really like to buy another as well as a milling machine but that is something for the future.

Can anyone recommend a set of plans for either of the two machines as per the title. They would need to be made without any specialist equipment like a lathe or milling machine.