Member postings for Dalboy

I never wear any for of glove when working with machines not even the nitrile type. I do have a box of them and found that when putting them on they seem to rip(I wear them when working with stains for woodworking and when blackening metal).

Rings are also a no no in my workshop as is loose clothing

I notice more and more people who I use to watch on u tube they started to do so many reviews of things that they have been sent FOC. I now say so on their channel and unsubscribe. If I want to watch adverts for something I will sit in front of a TV

Today was a slow day I turned the end of a cast iron bar down to 19mm to fit a collet at one end and also a small section of the piston over size so I could reverse it in the 4 jaw chuck. I then reversed the blank in the chuck and turned down the piston to the correct size and faced off, this will be the bottom of the piston. so there is some drilling and milling the bottom as well as a cross hole.
That will be done in a square collet block as the features need to be at right angles to each other. Hopefully that will be done tomorrow as I spent a while getting the piston to a very comfortable fit in the cylinder. As a learner to the hobby like most things it takes a lot longer than a more experienced machinist.
The photos show the piston during machining with a magnetic tray in place catching the cast iron swarf very little ended up on the lathe, will need to turn the bag inside out to contain it. I must buy some plastic bags as the wife keeps on wondering where all the bags are disappearing to

The last couple of photos show the cylinder liner in place. If you look carefully there is a small witness mark at each end this is so I can line up a oil hole in the cylinder with the one in the hopper

I was at a car show on Saturday and managed to pick up these six items(Stanley knife for scale) I thought at £5 for three items was a cheap enough buy to use them for small soldering jobs without too much heat loss.

They seem to have a positive feel to them for something so cheap.

Not sure how the plastic handle will hold up to heat

After a Saturday at a car rally with my woodturning and a day of rest on Sunday(not because it is a religious day but due to being totally knackered after the Saturday). I returned to the workshop and realised that the liner was sticking out by a very small amount. Not sure why so proceeded to measure and remeasure all of my measurements.

Then it dawned on me I had left a small fillet on an internal corner so back into the 4 jaw chuck and with the parting tool banished it from the piece.

Now that I was happy with that I could set up in the milling machine and drill the oil hole, so now very happy with the liner.

With the two part metal epoxy dry(which I was not happy with got it from Halfords so now ordered some JBWeld) I cleaned up all of the joints on the rear and front halves of the main frame.

Tomorrow I will start on the piston.

No pictures of this silly mistake just a red face for not realising this when turning the liner, well you live and learn which is what I am doing a lot of with this project. It could have been worse.

Cylinder complete all but one hole to drill which is for oiling. Lost count the amount of time I had to clean up luckily I had a magnetic tray in a plastic bag which collected a lot of the swarf, just turned the bag inside out to contain the cast iron swarf without it sticking to the magnet. It was a great slid fit as per the instructions on the plans

Thank you Steve.

This is not that fast as I started this back in March and this along with the Rob Roy I am building are my first attempts at model engineering.

Today was joining the front and rear base units still need to clean them up the tape was there to prevent getting any epoxy into the threaded holes and any reamed holes.

Then onto the cylinder liner which I got to 0.001" under size which will allow me to polish the bore for the piston to run in.

Have a look at the warco set it gives the names of the tools in the set

As above the hopper, front and rear frames are now complete all bar the assembly. Managed to complete all the holes including tapping where needed. Tomorrow I will join the front and rear sections with 4 screws and some metal epoxy this will then be the base unit done and I can add parts as i make them.

Thank you guys. Not a lot done today except some holes drilled, possibly the same tomorrow.

As I am working on the farm boy I was looking at some of the fixings. I have taps and dies form most but when I came to the 2-56 which I did not have any and found that for a set of three taps was £60+ so had a rethink and changed all but the three hopper long bolts to BA then found I did not have any 8BA nuts and bolts as well as a bottoming tap.

Now ordered more nuts and bolts as well as a new tap

But before I found out about the tap I had to sort out all of my loose taps and dies which are not in boxed sets. Just need to add some labels so I can find what types I have.

Part two If there are any questions just shout from here in I will post as I go The dry fit photos are as of yesterday.

I should have started this thread when I started the Farm boy hit and miss engine but I did put a few pictures in what I did today thread.

I will put pictures but without all the detail until I get up todate.

If it is just a decorative item will soft solder be a good option or as above epoxy resin which will mean that very little touch up of the paint.

Try something simple first and that is to flush the system out and strip and clean the release mechanism as any dirt will tend to settle at the bottom where that valve is. While at it you may as well check the pump unit seals/O rings as already suggested.

Remember that the smaller breakers even if they are good enough will possibly involve bending to use them and only ideal for small areas. Even the Kango 900 or 950 will involve bending to use.

Some of the cheaper ones you can get from places like toolstation and screwfix may do the job but again will involve bending to use them.

The question you need to ask yourself is how big an area needs breaking and if known how thick the concrete is, as well as can you do this in a short period of time this will also determine the size of machine and whether to hire or buy.

Once finished a brought machine will either sit in the shed or need to be resold. A hire machine can be hired for long periods but that increases the cost so if only a short job may be the best option.

The OP mentioned he used a machined reamer am I correct in thinking these are the same size right to the tip except for a very small amount to aid starting in a hole.

Sorry for not being able to help with the original problem

Not much doing but did get a new tool made as I had a insert sitting doing nothing but no tool holder. Photo not too good but gives an idea

Some teenagers still use a hacksaw to cut off chains from bikes