Member postings for David Colwill

125,639

David

Yes I did and it is still going strong

Machining the EN16T was much easier than I thought.

All in all it took way longer than I thought but I was pleased with the end result.

David.

Firstly I should start by saying that I have little experience in scraping ( I am fully qualified in scrapping though ). Most of the experts that I have seen on youtube seem to think that HSS or carbide is the way to go. I have several scrapers made from old files and all of them lose their edge pretty quickly. Some people say that this is because files are case hardened others seem to think that carbon steel isn't up to the task, what the answer is I don't know. Yesterday I decided enough was enough and got a piece of 20 x 6mm bdms, I cut a notch in the end to take a used triangular carbide insert and silver soldered it in place. on the other end I cut a tang and put a file handle on it.

I sharpened it at an angle of 5 degrees ( handle lower than point ) on both sides and had a go. The result is much better than anything else I've got and only took an hour to make.

Regards.

David.

Edited By David Colwill on 05/06/2017 20:36:13

These calls are run by organised groups. They can change the phone number on the caller ID to make it look like it is a UK based number and I believe can even display Talk Talk / BT's number. If you get any calls from any company it is best to ring them on a number that you have verified.

Regards.

David.

What do you expect for £7.00!. I splashed out £9.00 for my Mitutogo and while not perfect it does work and should I ever bash it into a rotating chuck I am unlikely to shed many tears.

David.

I do have some but haven't used it.

David.

Stuarts do a red version **LINK**

David

Well I have a J&S 540 which is 18 x 6 capacity and am in Nottingham if that is any help.

David

Where are you located?

David

The scariest near miss I have had was while working 7 meters up at the full reach of a tallescope (google if you're not sure) I was using a 9 inch angle grinder to cut through a welded box section structure when the sparks set fire to my trousers in the area of the zip! Unfortunately I had no choice but to finish cutting through the piece so that my mate could lower it to the ground, before putting the grinder down in the cage and then beating the flames out as gently as possible all whilst swaying alarmingly. The fire had burnt my trousers, tee shirt and jumper but somehow not me. I have since tried to set fire to cloth with an angle grinder ( while not wearing it ) but have never managed it.. The thing that bothered me most about this was the fact that this scenario never entered my head.

It is one thing to do something slightly dangerous if you know the risks and are prepared for them and another to be totally surprised by some unexpected calamity.

Regards.

David.

I should have said that my lathe has been up and running for a couple of years, though I don't use it that much but the combination has been very reliable.

Does the motor controller have any kind of acceleration / soft start facility and how close is it to the UC300?

David.

Whilst I can't say what the problem is. I can say that I have been running a Denford Easiturn with Mach 3, Windows 7 and a UC300. So far I have had this happen two or three times and it has not been an issue. when it has happened I have felt it was software related but this is intuition more than fact.

Regards.

David.

Err next time engage brain! This will only work at one point per turn of the thimble. Doh!!!

David.

How about removing the thimble and mounting it in the mill with the 0 facing upwards, then with a small end mill (1.5 - 2mm ) milling a hemisphere into it in line with the zero line. This will allow you to see where you are without too much hastle. You could even do this by hand with a file.

Regards.

David.

I have an 80mm Emco 3 jaw chuck on a 20mm parallel shank. This can be held in collets on various lathes as needed.

David.

I recently bought some DCMT tips off ebay that were £10.00 per box. I thought that they would be utterly useless but felt that at that price I needed to try them. The first box were marked Mitsubishi and regardless of whether they were real or fake, they were excellent. The second box were different but still worked well. Are they the best inserts? probably not but they have to be up there with the most economical.

Regards.

David.

PS

At some time I will set up a test and compare them against some of the branded ones I have.

I have used APT **LINK**

and have had very good service from them.

David.

Good point.

I hadn't looked at the surface finish but have now. I can't see any difference really. I tried to take some photos but they don't show up very well. I don't have any accurate way of measuring surface roughness so here endeth the experiment but I'm sure it will come in handy.

David.

I too have heard this from more than one source. Just for the sake of completeness I decided to nip into the workshop and try it. I used a piece of en8, which was drilled to 19.5 mm and then reamed with a 20 mm machine reamer.

Obviously I used the same sequence of drills and the same speeds. For the soluble oil i mixed a thin (5%) mix of Hysol XF for the thick oil I used SW68 slideway oil (cos it was next to the lathe).

I measured the resulting holes with a Bowers 3 point bore micrometer. To be honest I wasn't expecting much if any difference but was surprised to see that the hole reamed with the thicker oil was .02 mm bigger than the one done with soluble oil. I fiddled around with the test pieces and took measurements by rotating the parts around and yes the results were consistent.

Regards.

David.

Good luck!

David.