Here is a list of all the postings Billy Mills has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: Microstepper drivers |
01/03/2012 16:31:55 |
The torque depends on the method of microsteping. There are two main methods, full current to one coil then step the next coil incrementally to full current for the half step position so both coils are at max current in the half position and approximatly sine and cosine drive where maximal current is on the full step positions. The torque is not just the current, the half step position has maximum air between the poles so the reluctance of the magnetic path is maximal and torque therefore lower as John said. The sine and cosine drive concept is just that- it does not determine the rotor angle, just a simple concept. Stepper motors are designed to step and hold, what happens between steps is not pecisely controlled at all which is why microstepping is not fine angle control but smoothing the motion between whole step positions. The drive manufacturers can only approximate to the required wave drive because they don't know the exact function needed which will vary between motors. Billy. |
Thread: White metal - its availability & uses ? |
01/03/2012 13:23:00 |
I do a bit of spin casting of tin alloys in silicone rubber moulds using a centricast machine. As Jason has said, Tiranti's is a good starting point . There are many different alloys for different uses, For a ME low temp casting can be very useful for making small quantities of identical parts such as nameplates, bezels, cases and lineside models of all kinds. One route is to make an original in brass or plastic then make a two part silicone rubber mould then cast directly into the mould. You can do most moulding tricks e.g. use nylon rods to make cast in holes, install bushes into the mould to be cast in and join complex parts by soldering. Imagination is the major limit. You don't have to use silicone rubber moulds or centrifical casting, simple jobs can be cast into alloy moulds, cuttlefish or whatever else that will withstand 300 degrees C for a few seconds but it is vital to be certain that the mould is completly dry before pouring the metal in. Finally I would point out that most "Pewter" is tin, copper and antimony , it has been in use for thousands of years as drinking vessels and plates without mass extinction.
Billy. |
Thread: 3 phase motor rotation direction |
01/03/2012 02:01:14 |
ABCABC forwards ACBACB reverse i.e. swap B & C to reverse. Billy. |
Thread: Microstepper drivers |
01/03/2012 01:55:45 |
Microstepping is not a precise angular subdivision of whole steps, it is an approximate subdivision which has the considerable advantage of smoothing the rotation of the rotor, reducing noise and vibration and avoiding some resonance issues. For most uses 8 or 10 steps is about the sensible maximum. Most motors have about a 5% tolerance on whole step angle, however the microstep interpolation accuracy is probably much worse, the in-between steps depend on the variation of flux between whole steps which varies with different motors. Don't think of microstepping as an electronic gearbox, it is more an intermediate stage to make the stepper look like a two phase motor with quasi sine/cosine drive. Billy. |
Thread: Spin machine |
28/02/2012 01:01:03 |
Why not use a scrapyard car starter motor and car battery? You can vary the speed by connecting and disconnecting the battery using a starter solenoid ( relay) from some way away for safety when testing the thing out. A rigid support may not be needed, when you spin the cloth from it's centre it will tend to go flat. Harmonographs are easy with a digital camera pointing upwards at the bottom of a stairwell. Suspend a torch minus the reflector ( or just a led) from a cord above the camera, swing the torch and open the shutter. More interesting patterns if you attatch a small weight to the cord between the hanging point and the torch to make a compound pendulum. You can increase the pattern range by putting the camera on another pendulum. Billy. |
Thread: Plastic 4 jaw- You have been warned |
09/02/2012 12:38:40 |
Ady- you might look at the little chucks from peatol here . They have a very reasnoble price and separate bolt on jaws that are easy to machine. Proxxon do use a lot of plastic, their little cheap wood lathes use plastic collets that tend to bind up but I have not seen a plastic 4 jaw yet! Billy. |
Thread: Stirling Engine development |
07/02/2012 00:55:47 |
Well the challenge is to up that 10% efficiency on the TMG Ian, Cyril's variable reluctance generator might be better as a moving coil alternator- i.e. like the motor in a Loudspeaker which happens to have a quite good fixed magnetic path. I'm still ruminating on the physics inside the displacer, it won't be at a constant temp so perhaps a thin lagging inside around the hot end might help a little. There are a very large number of variables to keep you busy for a long time! Indeed the more you think about it the more you realise how well Cyril has done to make a great working example. There is another Cooke-Yarborough patent 4,077,216 that is a bit more conventional however the great appeal of the TMG to me is the use of the diaphragm and O rings to seal the gas and avoid the need for pistons and their sliding seals. 90,000 hours is a very impressive running time, when you think that is 90,000 x 3600 x 110 cycles that is some performance. Wonder where we can get some stainless cans? might find some old electrolytic cans but they are aluminium and not usually designed to nest with a small gap. Billy. |
05/02/2012 15:01:10 |
Thanks for the YouTube post David, Cyril has done a great job on the TMG. There is a good article on Wikipedia about Thermomechanical Generators and loads of information in the original patent US 4,345,437. The use of O rings to seal the "piston" is not what most people would think but a very clever idea. Like a lot of others I have been seduced by Stirling Engines, but the concept of a free displacer oscillating in a sealed volume is very interesting. Billy. |
Thread: Vernier vs Micrometer |
27/01/2012 17:22:56 |
Peter what do you want for £8.00 a NPL certificate as well? Electronic calipers use mass produced printed circuits to produce the two electrode patterns so you can knock them out cheaply. Some makers select the best and junk the rest. Rework is not going to happen at the low cost end of the market. The capacitance sensing and counting circuits often run all of the time that the battery is installed, the on/off switch may only disable the display so there is a small battery drain with some types. The cheaper models seem to have a higher drain than some high end models. If that is a worry pop out the coin cell between uses. The batteries are worth buying at MEX, last year you could buy 5 silver oxide cells for £1.99. Wolfie- try unscrewing the barrel and a drop of light oil on the thread. |
Thread: Painting blue styrofoam |
23/01/2012 19:06:40 |
Thought that was more or less what I suggested earlier Les ! The bamboo is only there to add stiffness. Mike Cox has a nice hot wire cutter on his site, he uses a LV lighting ""Transformer"" to power the hot wire (probably rated around 12V @ 5A) . It would be simple to mount the block onto a Cox style cutter with a vertical axle supported at both ends or to insert the axle into strips of wood at each end set the wire 5mm from the axle on a batten so that you can bring the wire into the block then turn it.. You can get dimmable LV lighting""transformers"" for a couple of quid from CPC. If you have a toroidal transformer then you can wind on some insulated wire to get whatever voltage you need. Billy. |
23/01/2012 15:32:04 |
How about foam on steel rod for support then mount in lathe between centres with hot wire as cutter, turn slowly by hand. Billy. |
Thread: Finding the centre again |
23/01/2012 15:13:49 |
Nice Ed, You can also print out a load of circles of different diameters on OHP film with the centres as very fine crosses then prick through the centre. Select circle over job then mark centre. Michael mentioned overkill- well if you are using countersunk holes and fasteners you do need to get things right, some get very upset if the screw is not nicely centred in the countersink, it does not look good. For Wolfie's job it may be on the inside, if the countersink is to sink the head it still needs to be right. Point that has not been mentioned is that the problem is an order-of-work issue. It may be tempting to cut the countersink at the same time as drilling holes but it could be best to leave it for later after spotting through for other holes. Billy. |
Thread: London Model Engineering Exhibition |
22/01/2012 21:44:32 |
Interestingly different views of the same show! Went Saturday and met Nick looking at Chris's new parting tool. It was very busy in the morning but quietened off after 2.00 and was nice to walk around by 3.00. Can't understand how the show is smaller unless the Hall has shrunk- there was not much dead space. Enjoyed the electric flying very much- some clever guys there. Wider variety of traders than December. Like planes as well as trains, trucks ,clocks and boats. Funny that some shows don't have planes at all. Was a bit spell bound by the flash steam racers! Would have liked to have seen a bit more SMEE space, always a highlight for me. Got SWMBO to taxi me there and back- delux way after years of training. Billy. |
Thread: Parting off Blades |
22/01/2012 17:33:11 |
More ideas after you write up the parting tool Chris, A lot of people are not happy parting off- your new tool could make them much happier turners and reduce hacksaw sales and accidents to beds. When people see and understand the method would imagine that commercial copies will quickly follow. Wonder if DC1 had a look today? Bob- sorry that this new idea is a bit mysterious if you have not seen the tool slice through metal but I do hope that Chris can get it into print so that the idea can spread. Billy. |
22/01/2012 01:34:38 |
Went to the AP show yesterday and watched Chris use his new tangential parting tool. Totally convincing demo, one smooth continuous ribbon , a fast feedrate and no hint of chatter. It also has the advantage of putting the cutter in compression when cutting so if the tool digs in it will kick the tool downwards and free itself. Next on list to make type tool. Very much hope that Chris will write up this tool, it looks easy to make and very easy to use. I would also add a plea to include Chris's clever method of making square slots for his other Tangential tool. Nice to see the circle drawing tool in use too! Great stuff from the SMEE once again. Billy. |
Thread: MEW 186 - Electronic Lathe Control |
22/01/2012 01:15:37 |
Many people have used an ELS as a halfway point to CNC conversion. However I would maintain that if you have a lathe in half decent condition it is already very well equipped for screwcutting. If the machine reverses easily then a lift up toolholder makes screwcutting a quick and certain process without the added electronics. My comments on 1 pulse per rev is based on a lot of experience in analog and digital phase locked loops. When sampling at such a slow rate the controller is given too little data. At a spindle speed of 600 rpm ( which many would think quick for thread cutting) that is only 10 pulses per second. Using a bull gear tacho would put the rate up by around 50 times greatly improving the loop dynamics- that would be very easy to do and could be a simple one time set up parameter. A 2 mS interupt rate should not be an issue for any decent controller but would make stepper rate setting easier. Single axis control works very well in some applications- as Tony has proved with his Divisionmaster controller. That makes sure that you don't loose count when the phone rings and gives all you could want in division options and resolution, if you do much dividing it is a godsend. However while you are fitting a stepper drive and controller you are very close to full CNC which then gives vastly greater flexibility for turning and milling in the lathe. My view is that ELS falls far short of two axis CNC for my needs but then- like everything else on this forum- it is a matter of personal taste. Billy. |
Thread: Finding the centre again |
22/01/2012 00:12:39 |
Would agree with Michael that you can locate the centre of a small circle with some precision with practice however when a newcomer asks how to find a centre it is kinder to give some methods which also work with much larger circles where visual estimation fails. |
Thread: MEW 186 - Electronic Lathe Control |
21/01/2012 01:38:43 |
It is very sad to see ten pages devoted to a crude ELS which is so dependant on spindle speed. ONE pulse per rev !!! Any screwcutting lathe has the complete answer, mechanical gears, the ultimate digital division/multiplication system for the home workshop, always phase locked when the nuts are closed and no starting up/bandwidth / Nyquist issues. Billy. |
Thread: Finding the centre again |
21/01/2012 01:18:08 |
I think that the original question was how to find the centre of a scribed circle. With a pair of dividers put a leg on the circle then guess the diameter and scribe an arc roughly around the centre. scribe another arc from a third around then another arc from 2/3rds around. you should then get a very small " triangle" enclosing the true centre. ( I should have called the triangle a cocked hat) This is an approximate method, you don't have to be very precise but the "triangle" is very quick to draw and makes the guess very much better. An accurate method. Chuck a point in the mill then place the point roughly over the middle. wind out the X axis past the circle then wind back to be over the circle, note the dial reading then carry on to the other side of the circle to get a second reading. Halve the readings to get the centre of the chord that you have just gone across and wind the x axis to the middle. you are now on a diameter of the circle. Now do the same on the Y axis to find the middle of the tangent to the chord which is the centre of the circle. You do need always to work in the same direction to avoid backlash. drop the z axis to make a tiny centre mark. Another version... draw a line across the circle intersecting the circle each side- roughly on the diameter. Set the dividers to the two crossing points, draw an arc from each point to intersect in two points each side of the line. join the crossing points with a straight line- this line is now on the diameter. From the two points where the diameter crosses the circle draw two arcs to intersect then join to find the true centre. Billy. |
Thread: Painting blue styrofoam |
21/01/2012 00:39:19 |
1829 paint from B & Q is a "Chalky" emulsion , about £2.10 for 100 mL Tester pot. Dries fast and levels very well. Billy. |
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